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Product Description
The Bestech Reticulan has a distinctly reptilian look to it. Shaped with a serpentine curve in its spine, this compact folder draws eyes—and that’s certainly not a bad thing Read More
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Good news for those that like the design but not the size. They make one with a 3.25in blade now!
The bad news is, it isn't available in this drop.
The really bad news is, it costs over $200.
Says twelve styles, yet you can only pick satin as a blade finish, not dimascus. I'm not a math wizard, but I'm pretty sure that means only six styles are available. And why even show the Damascus blades, and say they're a choice, when they're obviously not. It's very misleading. Seriously, how hard is it to edit some text, remove a photo or two, and update a post? Maybe if you cut back on all that Bubba kush tube pulling, these things wouldn't get over looked. BTW, lemme get that kush connect, yo.
I was intrigued and immediately started reading reviews. After that it was easy to make up my mind not to order this. I currently have a small buck on my keyring which replace a small Spyderco that was really getting beat up. I prefer blades between 3-4". I have a few ridiculously large folders from Cold Steel but they don't get carried.
I really liked the look of the knife ... until I realized the blade was only 2.1". If the blade had been 3-3.5", I would have been tempted, but $99 for a ~ May 15th shipping is no great deal, especially when ebay has lots of the options at $111.
I'm just looking at all the concave surfaces. Convex ones are easier to sand with a band sander or even flat sandpaper and care. Concave stuff, for me, is a lot harder to polish evenly.
I don't think I'd want to try and polish that surface. Even if you're using a benchtop buffing wheel it just seems like it'd have uneven wear.
Why, does it turn out that it's actually crazy easy somehow? :)
reswrightOh, well, not crazy easy lol
The right diameter flapper wheel on a dremel might be a possibility, if you're looking for power tool option. But would be difficult to do evenly, as you said.
To do by hand I would try to find something to wrap sandpaper around. If you can't match the diameter perfectly, go slightly undersized and softer.
Cork works well. Firm, but not hard. Just enough give that it will spread the pressure a bit. Unlike a hard dowel rod that would only sand right in the apex of the curve
Orrrrrr.....sandblasting/tumbling, then buffing?
P. S.
Or, if you just want a shiny surface, and don't care if there are bumps in it from the milling, look into "rust erasers". They won't be tough enough to sand siren the mill marks, but they will clean up the surfaces.
Use them to follow the "grain" of the mill marks, working your way up through a few grits, then final polish with a paste polish on a soft sponge that can get down into the grooves.