Do I Need to Lube My Keyboard Switches?
Figure 1: Sometime around here is a good time to ask that question... If you’re new to the mechanical keyboard hobby, I have no doubt that planning your first keyboard build is a bit of a daunting task. To be entirely honest with you, it’s only a tiny bit less daunting for your second or even third keyboard builds should you stay around a little while longer. You’ve got the keyboard itself to worry about, stabilizers, keycaps, and even switches on top of all of the intangible marks you want your dream keyboard to hit. Switches are especially daunting right out of the gate as there’s just so many options out there to pick from – each with their own unique specifications, manufacturers, and more. Yet, in spite of all of these differences between switches, time and time again I find people always asking about lubing switches as one of their chief concerns when it comes to picking some up. With countless numbers of content creators talking about lubing switches, its no...
Apr 17, 2024
There's a table of actuation forces and feels here: http://techreport.com/review/24461/a-first-look-at-cherry-mx-green-key-switches
The main reason is that buckling springs buckle. That means once actuated, theres not that much force required to hold it down, and it feels quite good.
Also, my Model F's springs are much more elastic than greens. This results in some really good typing feels. And my F XT was only $40 (and many sell for that on ebay), which is a steal compared to the $140 for a CODE
That said, if you were to try to pick a cherry switch that most closely emulates the classic buckling spring feel, MX green would be it. I think that it makes an excellent typist's switch, and they are also fine for most gaming. One of the biggest differences for me is that the cherry switches still actuate at a higher point (about halfway) than the IBM (close to 3/4 of the way). IBM switches featured low actuation points from about the 1960's (with the selectric typewriter mechanism) to the 1970's with the beam spring design, through the 1990's when they introduced the rubber dome M variants and scissor switches. The beam spring was made to mimic a typewriter rather well (and it succeeds with an astonishing degree of accuracy) and the buckling spring designs were both made to emulate the feel as much as possible while making the design cheaper and more reliable.
I would say that's the biggest difference to me. --- The WASD Code KB is one of the best KBs on the market. I am seriously considering the fullsize to pair with my Dvorak set and take to work. Now I just need to figure out someone to buy the greens I'll have to desolder out of it :P