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SubGothius
27
Apr 6, 2014
BTW, I gather the only difference between the Original vs. 5W version is that the latter has 1/8" jacks for extra switches pre-wired/-installed, but the former has all the same circuitry otherwise, so you can still add your own switches 4 and 5 if you know which pads to solder to -- they are clearly labeled SW4 and SW5 on the right-hand topside of the PCB, as shown in Ripster's tutorial from the now-defunct Geekhack wiki; I found a copy on the Wayback Machine here: https://web.archive.org/web/20120528162259/http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:8810
cccxm
80
Apr 8, 2014
SubGothiusBut then you have to cut up the case
SubGothius
27
Apr 9, 2014
cccxmI gather the case comes apart easily, just 3 screws IIRC. You could drill holes to add jacks like the 5W model, but in that case you'd prolly do best to just spend the $10 extra to have that done by CST.
If you don't care for the jacks, saving the $10 and modding the Original model would give you other options, such as mounting button switches in the case itself, putting the jacks in other locations, etc. I've read that CST's config software lets you invert the mouse axes, so that would allow you to turn the case 180° (putting the sloped end pointing away from you, scroll wheel towards you) and then you could cut into that sloped palm rest to add buttons there.