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I'm still figuring it out that if my Darkvoice is really 250v or just mislabeled 250v because I ordered 110v since I live in U.S
I'm just sitting here waiting for someone to clear this confusion. It's been a week i contacted Massdrop but they haven't replied to me.
If anyone from U.S own a Darkvoice, please let me know if yours has the same label as mine because I don't want to take the risk without knowing if my amp is actually the right one.
Your cord is rated to 250V @ 10A, Your amp will run on a 50/60Hz cycle
Meaning it won't work on my 110v outlet?
No. "Rated to" means that the dielectric in the insulation is capable of up to 250V, and it's thick enough to allow 10 amps of current through it.
In other words, your cord is fine. It will work on 110V.
The amplifier clearly says on the back that it works with 50 or 60 Hz. The only remaining thing is whether the power supply transformer is wound to support 250V or 110V. It's very likely not an 'auto sensing' as it's not commonly done on tube amps. Rather, the transformer usually has two primary windings that can be wired in series or parallel at the factory (occasionally you'll get a switch that can be set to one or the other, like a lot of ATX power supplies have. I can't say for sure which way the amp is wired, but it's surly one or the other, you've got a 50/50 chance. I'd wager that hooking it up to 120V would not damage it if it were wound for 250V. However I'm not going to recommend that you do so until you hear back from support. Nor would I recommend that you open it and attempt to inspect it or rewire it.
What I'd do is (A) try to contact the manufacturer and be prepared to have an English to Mandarin Chinese translater handy, or (B) jump on a forum like HeadFi.org or reddit.com/r/headphones and ask someone else that might have some experience with it. Someone there might be able to help. All Masssdrop is going to say is that they intended to send you the 110V, if you ended up with a 250V then it was in error... but if it's not marked, then how would they know which one they sent you?? Without any distinguishing marks, then it's your word against theirs.
Hope that helps. Maybe not what you wanted to hear, but it's what you needed to hear.
Thanks! I've already contacted Massdrop about my replacement and it's too late now since it's arriving this Monday lol
I've to return the current Darkvoice..
If I get the 250v this time (even though i told them countless times that please send me the 110v this time), that means it'd work just like you said. If that's really the case, I guess they're (makers) really lazy when it comes to labeling their amplifiers.
Agreed, the manufacturer should either (A) clearly mark it on the exterior as either 110V or 250V, or (B) add a switch so that it can be configured by the user. Those of us that travel on extended business trips would probably prefer (B).
I'm guessing this hasn't been a problem yet if they're only intending the amp to be sold in China and Europe where ~230-250V is the norm. If they're not writing the manual in English (without so much as an auto-translate), then obviously they're not too serious about the American market, aka this is more of a greymarket item.
Same as my DV but it is a 110/120V don't worry. It's common on many foreign devices to show a fuse rating of 250V. But the actual working reading other device sold to the US will be for the 120V market . The dark voice current draw is only 60 W this is minuscule compared to the 10 amp rating of the cord . The other end of your cord would be configured differently with either sideways pins that are flat or round circular pins from Europe or Asia if it was 250 V . Here is a photo of mine in the USA .
Also to add is that the cord endings will tell you what the power nominal is. The standards for plug design are supposed to to be near fool proof, and by the looks of the product price, not just any fool is selling these. So if it fits for the back of the machine and the cord provided plugs in correctly then you have the correct setup. Also for the 240v plug it has extras in its design to prevent confusion, so don't worry about that.
Well I got my replacement and it's the same thing lol I guess it's just the damn label.
But I do have one question. Is the burning smell of the tubes normal?
To avoid some confusion, 60w is the rms (root mean squared) max rated output of the unit in watts and the actual current draw value will be significantly less, units being ampheres or "amps, milliamps, etc." Fuses do nothing but protect the wire size re: fire code. A commom misconception that the fuses protect the actual component, nope just the wire feeding the unit.
I measured it with my amp meter it's exactly 59 to 60 W current draw all the time this is a class A amp so whether you have music on or just the unit turned on with no music it always draws 60 W . In A class confuguration for a class A amplifiers they always draw what they're rated at all the time with no fluctuation. This is the way class a amplification was designed to work. They draw their max rating all the time with no exceptions to the rule.