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DoneDealDR
72
Jan 4, 2020
I'm not sure why people are acting as if making a balanced cable is inherently expensive. In fact the stock cable is balanced with 4 conductors all the way to the device side connector, it only requires a different device-side connector to make balanced. Instead of soldering the grounds to the same sleeve conductor on the connector, they are soldered onto individual sleeve conductors on the connector to make them balanced. Many people, myself included, have done that on the stock cable, and there is no reason why that change alone would force a manufacturer to charge that much more compared to an unbalanced cable with the same overall construction. The wiring in the stock cable is however an incredibly small gauge, literally a few strands of copper per conductor. We can argue the semantics and such but nowadays I prefer making my own balanced cables with something quality but not outlandish, usually Mogami w2534.
LuckyLuke575
561
Jan 4, 2020
DoneDealDRYou're preaching the gospel here brother. I can't see why a cable that usually retails for EUR 21 on Amazon should cost 50 bucks just because it has a TRRS jack?? It's ridiculous. I'm with you all the way with the Mogami 2534 cable; all my headphone cables and RCAs are this wire.
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My custom sheathed 3 meter 2.5mm TRRS Neutrik with Mogami 2534 cost just over $90 for reference (bought).
Masaraksh
39
Jan 5, 2020
LuckyLuke575Where do you buy Mogami w2534 in bulk?
Fayne
2575
Jan 5, 2020
MasarakshMogami Neglex is easily sourced from eBay or music shops. It is very popular as microphone and balanced interconnect cable. I personally like W2893, but a lot of people like the thicker W2534. They're both 4 conductor with shield cable bundles, supple even. Example sources: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GoldMic--mogami-w2534-bulk-microphone-wire-priced-per-foot
https://audio-video-supply.markertek.com/broadcasting/Mogami-2893
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Mogami-2893-4-Conductor-Mini-Quad-Microphone-Cable-Per-Foot/303335617540 Is also great for making patches and converters, like the XLR4 to 6.35mm TRS adapter I made for use on my ZDT Jr.
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DoneDealDR
72
Jan 5, 2020
MasarakshI'm not sure what you consider bulk, but I bought 30 feet of w2534 from Performance Audio for $33 shipped and have made 4 headphone cables from it with enough to make 2 more (average ~5' length per cable). It's priced per foot at most retailers. Add in the cost of connectors of your choice, and if you're into aesthetics... sheathing material and Y splits and the cost per cable is really quite reasonable.
Fayne
2575
Jan 5, 2020
DoneDealDRI usually braid silver plated copper after stuffing it into paracord. Later in the week I've got like 400' of 27/40 litz arriving that I'm going to add into the mix. Multi-material cables are all the rage these days, figure I can make one too. But yes, Mogami is great freaking stuff. I use it everywhere I need shielded audio transport, if not the Neglex, the W2552.
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Masaraksh
39
Jan 5, 2020
FayneThank you Fayne and DoneDealDR !!! I'll check these sources out. Any advice on where to get quality connectors 2.5mm and Sennheiser ear cup connectors? Also, do I need anything else, heat shrinking stuff for the transition between cable and connectors?
Fayne
2575
Jan 5, 2020
MasarakshHonestly, I just buy my connectors on eBay. I'm super lazy, and there is no performance difference between them and the stock ones. From my last order, as examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5mm-4-Pole-Stereo-Carbon-Fiber-Headphone-Plug-Audio-Male-Jack-Black-US/392304761355
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Earphone-Cable-Pin-Plug-Connector-for-Sennheiser-HD650-HD600-HD580-HD25-Soft/163713868731 Those two items may not be the best for what you want, they're what I'm using to make a bunch of cables for friends, and purely an example. As for shrink tube for the y-split, I personally just use standard electrical heat shrink tube. I bought a multi-pack from Amazon a few years back for other projects (which they no longer carry, but is a good example). It works just fine for headphone cables. Plus I'm laaaaazy. The stuff with glue works well too, but you have to be damned sure you're ready to apply it when you do. Very permanent that. I bought a bunch of it also from amazon, various sizes. This link is an example.
Fayne
2575
Jan 5, 2020
MasarakshOh, and you're totally going to need a soldering iron and hot air gun if you don't already have them already. I bought an Aoyue 968A+ back in 2013, and it has been surprisingly solid. It is an iron, hot air workstation, and smoke absorber all-in-one. May be more than you need, but once again, is a good example. :) And a tip, if you're not ultra familiar with the use of Lead-free solder, don't try and learn on headphone connectors. Extended temperatures at the level which SAC305 needs to melt... will melt the housings. It does work if you're damn quick, but I totally ruined a few TRRS in the past by not being quick enough with the flow while I was getting the technique down.
Masaraksh
39
Jan 5, 2020
FayneThanks a lot for all the tips, I am already excited about this project!
Masaraksh
39
Jan 5, 2020
FayneOne more question, do you use heat shrink sleeves from cable split to ear cups or some other trick?
Fayne
2575
Jan 5, 2020
MasarakshPardon the image quality. Graphic designer I am not. Black represents the mogami. The other colors each represent a separate piece of paracord.
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I only do this when going mogami for headphone cables. Normally I just take 4-8 wires, slip each one (or pair) in a paracord sheath and braid them all. A good example is the way that the Venture cables are. :) Edit: pulling cables through paracord, and pulling paracord through paracord is tedious. be forewarned.
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Masaraksh
39
Jan 7, 2020
FayneThanks again, is there specific size Paracord that works the best?
Fayne
2575
Jan 7, 2020
MasarakshDisregard my previous suggestion as to the use of paracord with mogami. It is a pain in the butt. Check this build out, it is much more descriptive than I am and it is more or less how I do bare wire cables https://www.headphonesty.com/2019/04/guide-creating-y-split-braided-cables/ They strip the sheath off of the Mogami in that build, so you end up with a braided cable. They're using 275 Paracord in that, and if you're making a 2.5mm or 3.5mm terminated cable you will want to also. 550 and 750 Paracord cables are rather nice when you're dealing with XLR4, not sure how well they'd work with 6.35mm termination.
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DoneDealDR
72
Jan 10, 2020
MasarakshThere are 2 basic ways to go about this, a full braided cable where the original Mogami cable is completely broken down to 4 individual wires, sheathed in Paracord, and then braided. 275 is in my opinion the best fit here, 325 would also work. The other way is simpler, take the outer jacket and insulation off the length of cable, leaving it in the original star quad braid configuration. I use a razor blade carefully length wise, making sure to not penetrate the actual wire. Then unwind however much you want after the Y split on the headphone side, usually 12-16”. You can do 2 things after the Y split, sleeve individually in the 275 Paracord just like the full braided option and then wind them around each other (because the factory cable is already braided it will easily go back to this position), or you can stuff both wires into a single Paracord on each side. I do it the first way but I would expect you could easily fit both wires into a 550 without too much slack. On the device side that is still factory braided you’ll want 750 Paracord. You’d have to be a magician to fit all 4 into 550. Ive done both full braid and the 750 over factory twist braid to dual 275 twists. I prefer the 750 route as I’m not much of a braider and I like how the 750’s turn out. For the actual y-split I go a little fancy and usually use Eidolic y-splits. You can also find or even easily make something similar out of a softer material. You could also use the “cable y pants”. No matter which route you go you’ll want heat shrink on each connector and the y split so the Paracord holds up and to hold it together well. The standard general Paracord practice of searing/burning the ends applies here as well.
LuckyLuke575
561
Jan 17, 2020
MasarakshI don't work with bulk Mogami cable, but I do look for it when buying custom cables. My headphone cables come from Arctic Cables on eBay and Eno Audio for the RCAs (based in Europe). For reference, I just bought a pair of 1.5 m RCA cables with Mogami 2534 and Neutrik connectors for EUR 56 which is seriously reasonable given the objective quality of the wire and connectors used, plus assembled in Germany (I'm talking about off the shelf. I'm sure there are dudes with workshops and soldering irons that could put these cables for much less, but I tend to leave this kind of handicraft to professionals :D
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Masaraksh
39
Feb 5, 2020
FayneDo you use glue gun to fill in the connectors after soldering the wires or just heat shrink?
Fayne
2575
Feb 5, 2020
MasarakshJust heat shrink. Hot glue can make it difficult to correct problems.
Masaraksh
39
Feb 6, 2020
FayneThanks! I am about to start building my first balanced cable, very excited.
Masaraksh
39
Feb 8, 2020
MasarakshCan anybody please post the link to a wiring diagram? I don't have an existing HD6XX 2.5mm trrs cable to copy from. Also, interested in 2.5 mm ttrs diagram for DT-177x. Thank you in advance!
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