Is there any guide how to open the headphone to repair it ?
my panda has dropped and broken, but all the functionality is working.
just the left earcup joint is broken
AhmedAlSaeedI just disassembled mine. I looked everywhere for a guide but finally gave up and just did it. Donated the working driver board from a broken pair like yours to a bricked pair. Worked. I’ll post a guide soon.
PennultimateHello,
I was wondering if you ever did get around to creating a guide to disassembly of the Pandas. My pair has a loose hinge, and I'm trying to find if there's a way of fixing this (maybe there's a loose screw I can tighten inside the headband or something).
Thanks!
UberclockedI didn’t compile the instructions yet, but I can tell you that fixing a loose hinge is going to be difficult to impossible. The hinge design is horrible! Inside the swivel part is a bent socket that bends then eventually breaks easily and leaves you with no way to fix it. I ended up using jb weld to fix the swivel part permanently. I’ve attached photos that might help you. I’m missing headband pics though. Not too difficult though. The only non intuitive part is the plastic ring at the bottom pries downward to allow you to pull the rubber away and see the needed screws to detach the ear cup and get a screw driver at the swivel hinge.
PennultimateRip, my unit just bricked itself anyways, so I think I'm just going to use it as a parts unit, haha. It's got the issue where the thing won't turn on, and pressing down on the nub makes the led gradually fade into white and then turn off. Thanks for the response and pictures. It's very puzzling how Drop bungled the design of this so poorly when the PM-3's design was pretty much foolproof and robust already.
PennultimateSorry for bothering you again, but I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the swivel part from the headband itself (or rather disassemble the device at the point where the hangars rotate and join with the rest of the headband. I can only see two screws on the top of the hangar, but it's impossible to unscrew them without having already removed the rest of the headband. If it's not too much trouble for any pointers, that would be great.
UberclockedYou will have to disassemble that side of the headband.
Full extend the band on that side and pull the plastic ring down.
start pulling the rubber headband part outwards on both sides and expose 2 or 3 screws in the middle of the headband.
remove the screw that holds the inner plastic peice closest to the hinge and you should now see the extender part pictured above.
carefully remove the metal piece that holds a tiny ball bearing. The inside part of this part slides up to come off. Push upwards with your thumb on the engraved “drop” maybe even pry a little at that bottom to start it.
you may be able to remove the extender part from the headband at this point. Be careful to see how it comes off the inner metal band so you can reassemble. Either way you should now see the inner part of the swivel with two screws attaching it to the headband extender. Once these are undone the earful will be detached from the headband.
the damage that loosens the swivel is under those two screws you saw at first and couldn’t get at until now. If you find a good way to fix the loose swivel part I’m curious to find out so let me know.
I didn’t mention the wire this whole time but recognize that you have just a little slack to work with. Pulling can tear the 5 tiny wires inside it. It’s anchored at the ear cup. If you expose the full headband you can pull the wire off the headband to give you more slack to work with.
good luck man. If you get stuck again let me know.
PennultimateHello, hope this isn't a bother. I'm looking into switching the speakers of the headphones because i seem to blow the originals out in the low end. I have a spare being shipped out, and want to know how to disassemble the cans enough to swap speakers?
PennultimateThe driver is the oval piece and the wheel piece attaches to the back of that. You will not want to disassemble that magnet, ribbon, stack unless you are really confident and careful. I would just replace the entire driver assembly.
VC777Yeah that’s the hard part. I tore the first one up before I found the trick I mentioned about using the snap tweezers to get under the adhesive layer.
PennultimateI've got an early serial numbered pair that work perfectly, but they rotational "hinge" is 50% failed already. I'm wondering if you can post this guide somewhere so I don't have to break new ground
NWLierlySorry I don’t have any more than what I’ve posted here and the other link referenced in this discussion. The hinge part is fairly straightforward besides moving the plastic ring downward to remove the rubber inner headband. Also, you have very little slack to work with so be careful. Honestly, I eventually did a full transplant of these drivers into new cans. The hinge is near impossible to fix or strengthen. Best bet is to jb weld or neatly tape still with electrical tape. Seriously, I went through three attempts to save and repair the failing and then failed hinge.