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nomaded
117
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Jan 9, 2015
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I don't remember where I've shared by experience of building my ErgoDox, but I'll add some comments here.
Up until earlier this year, I hadn't done any soldering for about 20 years. I had done some soldering for various projects in high school and university, but nothing as extensive as the ErgoDox.
Before I received the kit, I watched several videos for a refresher on soldering techniques, and watched the WhiteFireDragon video to get an idea of all the steps for building the ErgoDox. WhiteFireDragon's video is here:

I watched all 3 parts of the EEVblog soldering tutorials. The first one goes over tools for soldering:

. The second one goes over technique for typical components (such as chips and resistors):

. The third one goes over surface mount components:

.
After watching those videos, I decided to get a soldering iron that wasn't a cheap one from Radio Shack or Harbor Freight. I ordered a Hakko FX888D, but you don't need to spend this much, unless you plan on doing more soldering projects (like I have). I know others have assembled their ErgoDoxen with irons from Radio Shack.
Knowing the surface mount diodes will be tiny, hard to see, and hard to handle, I bought a set of Vetus precision ESD tweezers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EINM5BC/, and an illuminated head-mounted magnifying glass: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UCODIA/.
For the surface mount diodes, I used WhiteFireDragon's technique of applying a blob of solder to the square pad. I did this for all the SMD locations on one board. Then using a flux pen, I added a bit of flux to the solder blob just beforehand. Then using tweezers, I positioned the SMD line side onto the solder blob, and heated both the solder and the SMD leg until the solder flowed and the SMD sank into the blob. I verified that none of these were cold solder joints. Then I went back and soldered the other side of the SMD. A multimeter is useful for verification of the diode connections and direction. I want to emphasize that the extra flux is important, to make sure the solder flows properly.
All the other components were pretty straightforward. I think I had the most trouble with the USB cable. I used a Dremel/rotary tool to cut away at the housing of the USB mini connector. Then I carefully stripped the cable sleeve off, and used the old-school technique of biting on the individual wires to strip them (bite down, then pull away). I tinned the individual wires before feeding them through the PCB, and soldering the other side.
One other thing I wanted to note was that the USB mini connector that gets soldered to the PCB uses more solder than expected. I ended up solder both the top and bottom.
There are kits that can be bought to learn how to solder. They include a small PCB and some components. I can't recommend any, but I know they are out there.
Good luck.
Jan 9, 2015
cartman-2000
26
Jan 9, 2015
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nomadedI was doing research on a Hakko soldering irons in the research phase of this build, but didin't really want to push the cost of this project above 300 dollars in total(I used a Radioshack soldering iron, one that I already had on hand.). I also didn't have a Dremel tool either, and had to use a utility knife to get the casing on the mini-usb connector off.
Jan 9, 2015
skrooks
89
Jan 9, 2015
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nomadedOne note about using a flux pen... the one I got has a spring loaded felt tip. You can push down a bit on the tip to prime it with more flux. If you get a flux pen like this, do NOT prime it over your PCB! I was reflowing some of the solder on my SMDs by putting a dab of flux on the joints then touching them with the soldering iron. I tried pushing on the tip a bit while I was working to get a little more flux and ended up with a massive puddle all over my PCB.
Jan 9, 2015
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