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dreamingscorpio
9
Aug 18, 2021
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Does anyone know what makes these cables different (and more expensive) than other cables like ZY(https://drop.com/buy/sennheiser-balanced-cable-for-hd6xx) for example?
Aug 18, 2021
Fayne
2144
Aug 18, 2021
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Nothing does other than greed or perceived value of the labor. The materials of both are nothing special and if you are handy with a soldering iron you can make a near exact copy of either cable for less than $25 using the exact same off the shelf hecho en China parts and wires. Frankly if one was willing to pay for either cable one would be better off getting a Hart Audio HC-5 (4.5' w/mini XLR4 termination) and Multi-Kit 6, a HC-5 18" split w/mini XLR4 and a 3 or 4 foot IC-3 XLR4 interconnect, or just going with a 4.5' HC-5 with full sized XLR4 termination. If you have multiple headphones, going the route of splits and interconnect is super nice.
Aug 18, 2021
Fayne
2144
Aug 19, 2021
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You lost me at skin effect. At the amperage, voltage, and frequencies commonly associated with headphone audio, the losses due to skin in properly gauged wires are so infinitesimally small that one would have a hard time showing them in reality. I mean, sure, working through the raw maths to find that 0.01-0.05% loss when playing dog-whistles through your cans works too, but does it matter? Your mk1 earholes can't tell the difference. Any time someone brings skin up in situations where the frequencies aren't 100kHz+ or the amperage isn't... well... high (like power line high), my snake-oil and bullcrap sense starts tingling. :) Edit: Just so this doesn't look pure crazy. This was in response to someone who deleted their comment.
(Edited)
Aug 19, 2021
dreamingscorpio
9
Aug 19, 2021
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Thanks! That's a lot of very useful information. Maybe I'll try making my own in the future as you said.
Aug 19, 2021
Fayne
2144
Aug 19, 2021
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They're not overly hard to make, a bit time consuming at first, but not terribly complicated. Just don't get too frustrated if the first one turns out as an abomination. :) When soldering the Sennheiser connectors, be careful. It is stupid easy to heat the pins up enough to start melting the plastic housing. I'm normally a SAC305 lead-free solder kinda guy, but for headphone cables I generally use the leaded Cardas quad eutectic silver solder (may not be the best price) because it doesn't require as much heat to flow. I find that doing 4 (or 8) strands braided works rather well. Just put one (or two) strands of wire in four paracord sheaths, and do a flat braid. L+, L-, R+, R- each with their own paracord. You can either buy a boot/pants to split the cable, or just use heatshrink tube. I tend to use the type of heat shrink with glue. Here are some example photos of a cable I made a few years back:
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Aug 19, 2021
dreamingscorpio
9
Aug 20, 2021
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oh wow, that's a ton of useful information. I feel like now I just have to try it out =)
Aug 20, 2021
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