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Product Description
Ortholinear keyboards are designed to increase efficiency and reduce finger travel when typing. Though it’s large for an ortholinear board, the ID75 gives you free reign over every key—so, if you get good with it, it’s bound to make work and play a lot more fun and effective Read More
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I like the light touch of the gateron red switches, and ortholinear is an improvement over staggered columns. The quality of the plate is very good, it's a nice solid piece of aluminium and the PCB bolts onto it in 7 places. This is much better than the XD75 as far as I can tell from looking at videos and comments about it. I think I was quite lucky to have picked up this ID75 when I saw it listed on drop as I had been thinking about getting an XD75 for a while.
I am now looking at the BFO-9000 or similar for a next board.
@mburger - you can set a reset key to a key on the keyboard, I make my layouts with https://config.qmk.fm/#/idobo/LAYOUT_ortho_5x15
and it is in the "Quantum" tab at the top. I put it in a layer.
@vyanvox - set the RGB keys in a layer in https://config.qmk.fm/#/idobo/LAYOUT_ortho_5x15 if you use it, it will change (I set a button in a layer for RGB hue+, sat+ and brightness+ and tried tapping them but there was no change. It was about a fortnight before I had another crack at it and set a key for RGB hue-, sat- and brightness- and they all worked. I turns out the red at maximum saturation and maximum brightness that the board ships with is the top of all three settings, so only reducing the settings will have any visible effect at first.)
Overall I like this product a lot. It feels like putting legos together, and is satisfying in terms of tolerance/fit. I put G20 keycaps on mine because it is a glorified game pad for my use, but this layout could possibly be good for typing, too. I won't be trying that lol. The learning curve is EXTREMELY steep.
I cringe at $400 keyboards, not gonna lie. Like what is it for? I ordered this because I had never tried an ortholinear layout, and I liked the aesthetic, and I figured with keys that are all the same size, an no stabilizers present, there wouldn't be much rattle. Plus, the arcylic panel sandwiched between two aluminum plates helps damp vibration, too. So I was expecting 'high build quality' and I took my time putting it together. Very satisfying to load all the switches into the PCB, just bending the fuck out of pins left and right lol. Doesn't matter, they all work. High quality stuff from Gateron, I'm impressed. The Gateron Blacks I went with are smooth and linear and don't rattle. Most of them seem to have the same level of snugness fitting into the plate. The one part of this (and every keyboard, even a RAMA a friend of mine has) is the plugging/unplugging of the USB-C cable. It's like floating in it's little cave - needs a gasket around it, and I will be making one from silicone or something similar in the future. I plan on disconnecting the cable once or twice a day though, maybe that's not you.
Notes on programming: I didn't know how to use QMK toolkit, and it was a bitch to learn on the fly. I wish tutorials just said 'don't touch the 'Load' button' but I clicked that fucker like 15 times in a row and changed the .hex file I was flashing to some default.
Program a RESET key to your 1-layer, accessible from the 0-layer. If you don't, you will have to disassemble to access the reset button on the back of the PCB (not a huge deal guys, it's 6 screws lol). Still, better to get this one right the first time.
Program ALL the lighting effect buttons on a single layer, whichever one you want, and figure out from there which buttons you want to keep. Most of the buttons don't do anything, and the LED effects are pretty baller so you should check them all out and have access to them.
This was my first keyboard kit. I have one other mechanical keyboard (Tecware Phantom RGB) and while it has hot swap switches, they are Outemu and incompatible with anything other than Outemu. What attracted me to the Drop ID75 was that it had hot swap switches, was ortholinear, and was essentially like the XD75 that I’d been looking at but came from Drop rather than Aliexpress. I placed my order in January before all the shutdowns started. It finally arrived in May, not sure how much of that was due to lockdowns and how much is “normal”. This was my first kit and while I had assembled and disassembled PCs and laptops before, I’d never assembled a keyboard. I read some of the notes and discussions and was glad that I did or I’d probably have tried to do it in the wrong order (putting the switches in first and then trying to put the PCB on). As it was assembly was very easy. I’d recommend this to a friend who was interested in OLKB, but OLKB does take some getting used to.
PROS:
Case is _solid_, smooth, and very nice
Cutout for the usb socket lines up nicely and looks high quality (reviews of similar keyboards mentioned this as not being good on those)
Assembly was easy
Flashing with QMK is also easy.
The underglow RGB lighting is nice
Hotswap switches are easily hot swapable as advertised.
CONS:
Very little documentation. Read the discussion and the reviews here on Drop, since it seems to be the best source of information. The key layout can be found on the QMK site at this URL…
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/idobo/keymaps/default75/keymap.c
NOTE that this is NOT the layout that appears on the QMK site at this URL (which is the right firmware)
https://config.qmk.fm/#/idobo/LAYOUT_ortho_5x15
While the assembly was easy, I hope I never have to disassemble it. The screws are very small and the metal felt soft as well. I would be concerned about stripping the screws if I took them out too often.
There are no LEDs for the keys although it appears you can add that in, but I’m not interested in soldering LEDs at this point. Also it would be single color LEDs not RGB LEDs.
NOTES:
This is an ID75 and NOT an XD75 so choose the right firmware when going to the QMK site.
https://config.qmk.fm/#/idobo/LAYOUT_ortho_5x15
Some people have commented that they were disappointed about the lack of a hole in the bottom to be able to hit the reset switch on the PCB but this really doesn’t need to be an issue. When programming the firmware, just make sure to program a RESET key on one of the layers and it is no problem. I’ve reprogrammed my keyboard over a dozen times already and haven’t opened it up to hit the reset switch yet. Just hit the Reset key and you can flash the keyboard easily.
I wanted to like the original keyboard layout which is basically a split ortho with arrow keys and other special keys in the center 3 columns but after working with it for a few days I found the center column too far to reach without moving my hands off the home row keys so I changed my layout to just have 2 special columns in the center and moved the 3rd extra column to the far right side.
I took inspiration from some other OLKB keyboards that use QMK and used the QMK website to make a new keyboard layout. I have QWERTY on the default layer, Dvorak on another and Colemak on another. I use QWERTY and Colemak (which I’m learning) the most. The Lower layer provides access to the F-keys on the home row and the Raise layer provides access to shifted numbers on the home row. Pressing both simultaneously provides access to the Meta layer where the keys for changing the RGB and choosing the keyboard layout (QWERTY, Dvorak, Colemak) and the very important RESET button live.
I like this keyboard but there are some definite design issues that I can't overlook. One begin that there is no hole for the reset button. You have to unscrew the entire bottom to hit the reset button making it a pain to flash with qmk. It also doesn't have support for at least one 2u key which can be frustrating when you are trying to layout a space bar.
While I do like the keyboard, there are a few things that some may find to be deal breakers.
One thing is the acrylic middle plate which does look nice, but didn't actually line up with the other case plates. I had to drill new holes for the plate to allow the screws to do their job.
Another is the issue of not having that reset button as mentioned by mburger in his review.
The keyboard actually comes pre-flashed which was a surprise to me and so I decided to use the profile that has already been flashed for convenience. However, this ended up being less convenient as I had troubles figuring out the key functions of the lower and raise layers. There wasn't any documentation that I could find from Drop.
Also, I couldn't figure out how to change the underglow LED color and that really annoyed me.
This was my first board to launch me into the hobby. I loved getting to try an ortholinear board, and it being hotswappable made it the perfect price to feature to ease ratio. The quality of the board's material wasn't perfect, but its minor imperfections are easily overlooked by it's simplicity.
Programmable, hotswappable, great looking LED trim with different color effects, huge 75 key layout (relative to other ortho layouts), what's not to love?
Well, the build quality is a little questionable. One of my frame screws doesn't actually grab, the rubber feet are larger than the holes for them in the aluminum, and the clear plastic for the LEDs isn't perfectly flush with the aluminum body. Are these things a big deal? The bad screw maybe, but I have been using this for almost a year now as my primary work keyboard for a programming job because it greatly outshines the traditional layout in terms of comfort, even for things like _, (), {}, [], `, and ~.
kN0XygnAn update on this - I have now been using this keyboard as my primary work keyboard for over 2 years and have flashed it's layout a few times for more favorable function-layer keys. My only qualm anymore is that it doesn't have feet that tent the whole thing upward. I currently tuck a sticky note pad underneath.
The keeb is quite nice, affordable, and easy to use. The case sound feel is quite harsh because of the integrated plate, but works as advertised and looks quite good. Great for someone wanting to try ortholinear hotswap board, or custom extra large macropad.