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recursive
0
May 30, 2017
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A couple questions: Do these now come with the ability to connect via a USB-C connection to your computer/laptop? Are the LEDs capable of RGB? I know I'm late for this drop, but I'll put an order in next time if it has the options I'm wanting.
May 30, 2017
smoyer
160
May 30, 2017
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I've had good luck connecting between the first half of the keyboard and the computer with almost any USB 3.1 cable - none of the cables I've ordered will work when connecting the two halves together. The back-light color for the LCD is programmable as is the contents of the display but this is *NOT* an RGB LCD (I've designed a lot of embedded systems and small RGB LCDs don't seem to be popular).
May 30, 2017
themilomaster
15
May 30, 2017
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Are you saying you can only connect the two halves together with the included cable?
May 30, 2017
smoyer
160
May 30, 2017
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So far that's all I can do ... I believe that earlier in this thread someone listed out a cable that would work between the halves. Don't despair though as you can also connect each half to the computer and it will register them as separate keyboards instead of one daisy-chained one. Can someone recommend a short cable that works between the halves? The two-meter cable is needlessly long!
May 30, 2017
themilomaster
15
May 30, 2017
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Ok, you made me really nervous there for a second. Ha!
May 30, 2017
smoyer
160
May 30, 2017
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to be fair, I bought a couple of really cheap braided cable sets (one short and one long per set) that claimed to be USB 3.1 certified. I'd love to know what the difference between a working and non-working cable is!
May 30, 2017
Jon808517
30
May 30, 2017
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I currently have the 1 meter Amazon Basics USB-C cable between the two halves and it's working without issue!
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYLW0/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GGKYLW0&psc=1&refRID=PX0K7CT05Q4K1KC3GAMQ&refinements=p_85
Looks like they're out of stock right now though...
May 30, 2017
OlivierPons
239
May 30, 2017
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All pixels are not RGB. It's not RGB in that sense, but its LCD backlit is 100% RGB and you can customize it with a bit / lot of hacking. Bit for enthusiasts, a lot (almost impossible) for newbies: - You'll have to... re-compile all, and if you're like me = under Windows, bad luck you'll have to install Linux + tons of things together to be able to compile. - Then, only then, you'll have to search for the RGB configuration. Good luck here too ;) ). Same for what's written on the LCD. Here's a nice spoiler: the LCD is 128x32. So you may think like me: "I'll display my own stuff on the LCD". Here's the big idea on a keyboard: you only want to know on which layer you are, right? So if you're on the layer one, a big 128x32 picture showing "Normal state". Layer 2, a 128x32 picture showing "Shift + arrows"... and so on, layer 8 a 128x32 picture showing "Photoshop TIME". Please sit down before reading the following paragraph. YOU CANT. You just can modify the picture of the layer 0 (and I wont explain here how I did this, I let you the nice pleasure to find out how). The idea of the keyboard was something like: - (1) layer 0 = "base layer" - (2) "if I change to layer one, I hide the picture of the layer 0, I DIVIDE the screen into 4 parts 32x32 parts and I show the number "1" on the first part. - (3) "if I change to layer two, I hide the picture of the layer 0, I DIVIDE the screen into 4 parts 32x32 parts and I show the number "2" on the first part. - (4) "if press multiple keys then I hide the picture of the layer 0, I DIVIDE the screen into 4 parts 32x32 parts and I show the numbers of all the layers pressed on each part, so you may see "134" if you press keys that are part of layer 1, 3 and 4. YES. I wont comment how useless this is, but when I get my Ergodox, I'll just try to figure out how to have one 128x32 picture by layer, and display the picture of the layer that is currently active. Classical but 1000e+5456 times more useful to know on which layer you are, and what this layer is for. Read this explanation which is no doubt far better than mine: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5coiu8/guide_infinity_ergodox_linux_guide_altering_the/
May 30, 2017
SifakaMon
280
May 31, 2017
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You have to get a cable that is USB-C 3.1 compatible. Some are marked with a SuperSpeed+ (SuperSpeed 10 Gbit/s) logo. Two that I personally have used that work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H43T0FQ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7MJ2X2 Note that the second one has only "USB 3.0" in the title text, yet says in the body that it does 3.1. The latter is true. It's really hard to figure out if a cable works without trying it; one thing that seems universal is if the A side connector is not blue, it's only USB 2 and definitely won't work.
May 31, 2017
SifakaMon
280
May 31, 2017
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That seems odd, no USB-C 2.0 cable I've tried has worked. Only 3.1.
May 31, 2017
Jon808517
30
May 31, 2017
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You're right. My bad. AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bpLZHHiIhtxAW
thats the one I got. Still no supply though.
May 31, 2017
OlivierPons
239
May 31, 2017
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They dont ship them in France, yay \o/ Do you think this one is 3.1 (sorry this is French but I have no choice): https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01M8NSVTH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AEB9F56C3A3O6&psc=1
May 31, 2017
SifakaMon
280
May 31, 2017
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The plastic part of the A side is white, it's probably USB 2.0. 3.0 and 3.1 have blue connectors almost universally (note Apple doesn't)
May 31, 2017
smoyer
160
May 31, 2017
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Yep ... all four of the cables I bought have white plastic in the A side. I was very careful about purchasing cables that "claimed" to be USB 3.1 certified. I guess I'm one of the suckers that's born every minute.
May 31, 2017
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