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HarveyDent
5
Apr 25, 2016
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I recently acquired and built the Infinity Ergodox from Massdrop, I'm loving it so far, but I have some issues with it
1. I connect and disconnect my keyboard frequently because I use a laptop, and about 1 out of every 3 tries only the right hand switch LED's light up, while the left hand just stays off. The little LCD screen on the top left turns on and the keyboard works fine, it's just the LED's for the switches that don't turn on. If I disconnect the keyboard again and reconnect it, they all turn on. I am on OS X, 10.11.4
2. The other problem I am having is the stabilizers are really sticky / bad (and I only have 2, but the other 2 are on their way) . After taking a close look at it, it looks like the little peg piece that goes on the outside of the keys (The outside + 's under the key, | + + + |) is rubbing against the stabilizer stand that goes into the metal plate, almost like the medal wire is too far forward from where it snaps in. I think the only thing I can do is file / sand down the stablizer stand to make it fit, but I was wondering if anyone else has any idea's on what I can do? (I also tried lubing it, but it's too strong of a contact to make a difference...)
Thanks for any help!
Apr 25, 2016
Badgered
27
Apr 25, 2016
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I have tried reorienting every part of the stabilizers, even the switches. The stabilizers always stick. They are maybe .5mm out of tolerance. I'm currently having best results with them mounted with the wire side, short-side of the + connector, LED side of the switch all on the same-side. This is the side where the stabilizer slot extends beyond the switch slot.
I can make the keys move freely by applying firm pressure to the back structure of the stabilizer, but this is not a solution, and as soon as I let go, the switch binds again. I have tried safely and gently bending the posts outward, but I can't bend it enough to do any good without doing damage to the entire clip.
Either these slots were are out of spec, or drilled incorrectly, or they were not intended for this stabilizer.
The only option I can think of is to widen the stabilizer slots with a file, and I really do not want to do this as the purpose of a stabilizer is to sit securely in the plate and eliminate wobble. Pretty unhappy so far.
Apr 25, 2016
HarveyDent
5
Apr 25, 2016
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YUP!!! I have tried every position, different key cap types, lube and no matter what the stabilizer binds! I've been using the keyboard without a stabilizer and it seems to be ok, but it is disappointing that there are holes cut out for stabilizers, they give you stabilizers, but they don't actually work with the keyboard... I really don't want to file the metal plate to make them work, but if that is the only solution I guess I can chance it...
Apr 25, 2016
LucienK
5
Apr 25, 2016
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For your stabilizer issue, I just used a razorblade to shave off a little bit of the plastic on the side that was rubbing, (it's about 1/2 normal thickness on mine atm). It takes a bit of finess, but it's not an area that sees a lot of stress so I don't think there will be any issues in the long term. Worst case, you have to buy a couple more in a few years. __X__ <- part that goes in keycap ||-----|| || ______ || <- shave this side Before you do this though, make sure that the stabilizer base is actually fully inserted. It can be a bit finicky.
Apr 25, 2016
HarveyDent
5
Apr 25, 2016
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Thanks, for the tip! I will try this tonight and see what happens!
Apr 25, 2016
Badgered
27
Apr 25, 2016
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Don't do it, you can't put that material back. Besides, I just tried it. It only widens the slot, the posts still bind and now the clips wiggle in the slot. Awesome.
I even sanded off just a bit less than half a mm on both sides of the + piece, and a little off the posts. End result: they move but they don't clear. I'm trying to find replacements now. This is ridiculous.
The worst thing is, this is a known issue going back to October with no official fix.
Apr 25, 2016
LucienK
5
Apr 25, 2016
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What are the posts binding on? is the actual wire catching on the inside of the slot? The inserts on mine already had space on the side that doesn't extend out, and the binding was caused by friction between the other side and the part that clips in. Also, wiggle room on the sides of the insert shouldn't matter, because the stabilizer isn't supposed to prevent movement in that direction, it just makes sure that the other side of the key receives equal down force if you press the key off-center. @HarveyDent If you're worried, take a close look at the insert as you move it to see if you can actually determine the cause of the binding; there's gotta be friction somewhere that's causing it to stick.
Apr 25, 2016
HarveyDent
5
Apr 26, 2016
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@Badgered wow, sorry to hear that :/ , wish the outcome was better, but thanks for the heads up. I too am bummed that from google searching this issue that it went way back and has no solid solution
@LucienK - I'll take another look tonight, but it seems to be binding on the inside of the slot where the stem connects to the wire and the stem is rubbing against the overall stabilizer stand. With your friction, are you saying that it was the actual metal piece that attaches to the stabilizer? That little "c" clip thing that is part of the stabilizer that the metal snaps into?
Apr 26, 2016
squirreldude1200
59
Apr 26, 2016
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I had a heck of a time with my stabilizers, too. The little guys that sit on the wire were rubbing on the vertical posts. In particular, it was the posts on the opposite side from where the wire clips into the stabilizer. I filed the posts since they looked thicker.
Apr 26, 2016
keatsfonam
0
Apr 26, 2016
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Ditto here, gets stuck and doesn't come back up. Had to do without for now
Apr 26, 2016
HaaTa
558
Input Club
Apr 26, 2016
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Hmm, 1. sounds like a power issue. I have a new firmware update coming soon that may help with this.
Apr 26, 2016
HarveyDent
5
Apr 26, 2016
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oh nice! This might be a dumb question, but as soon as I built my ergodox I started reading into the github wiki and started programming it. I used the default ergodox.bash with modified key layouts, but I use the '-o' tag to output just one directory and flash the whole keyboard with one .dfu.bin with the ./load script file. Should I be flashing the keyboard pieces separately with their independent ICED-L and ICED-R folders / .dfu.bin's to help with the power? Or is it ok to load the full keyboard layout on one side, because that does work, I'm just not sure if I should. I'm going to try and see what happens when I load the .dfu.bin's separately tonight or tomorrow to see if anything changes. Still new-ish to hardware, but I'm having fun learning!
Love all the work @HaaTa both the software and hardware!
Apr 26, 2016
LucienK
5
Apr 26, 2016
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The part I cut down was the part that connects the keycap and the wire. My friction was between the two plastic pieces, and I cut the one that moves to reduce friction between it and the seated piece on the metal plate.
Apr 26, 2016
HaaTa
558
Input Club
Apr 26, 2016
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So in general when you flash you only need to flash the side plugged into the computer because this is where the layout is programmed. However, if there are other firmware updates you need to flash both sides (particularly interconnect related).
There's also an input club irc channel on irc.freenode.net #input.club which is bit easier than the comments section to ask questions.
Apr 26, 2016
HarveyDent
5
Apr 26, 2016
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Awesome! Thank you! I'll give it a shot! I'm pretty sure that is where my friction is coming from
Apr 26, 2016
HarveyDent
5
Apr 26, 2016
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That makes sense, thanks for the update! Did not know there was an irc channel!
Apr 26, 2016
HarveyDent
5
May 2, 2016
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I finally took a file and shaved down some of the plastic feet of the stabilizer (the part that connect the keycap to the wire) and it worked! It was really simple, easy and was able to take my time to get it just right, now I have no more binding! Thanks for the tip LucienK!
May 2, 2016
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