Mechanical Keyboard Sound Isn't That Simple
Figure 1: I couldn't think of a more literal way to represent this article if I tried... Looking back just a few years ago, there’s no doubt that the huge influx of people that joined the hobby at the peak of the COVID pandemic were drawn to keyboards by way of YouTube, TikTok, and other audio-visual content platforms. Even as the output from these content creators has waned in recent months, their collective impact and legacy on the keyboard hobby is rather firmly etched in the history books. As a result of all of their sound tests, build logs, and opinion videos, the message is clear to any new person joining the hobby: mechanical keyboards are all about the sound. Thock this, clack that. Whether it’s keyboards, keycaps, or even singular switches, seemingly everyone new to the hobby meticulously pores over each component of their keyboard not in an attempt to figure out how it will feel in hand, but how it will sound as they’re furiously grinding their way out from...
Mar 27, 2024
I finally finished my Infinity Ergodox keyboard. I received my Carbon SA keycaps yesterday.
This has been an excellent keyboard! It has also been fun to learn to type on it. The layout of the keys is comfortable, and the mechanical switches themselves are a nice feel on this keyboard.
For keycaps I am using the GMK Carbon SA keycaps modifiers and the PBT Double-Shot keycaps (Slate/Lilac) from another drop for the alphas. As I just installed them, I am still figuring out how I like the two sets together (The grays are ever so slightly different.)
I took some time to figure out the default layout, then looked online to see what others were doing. I ended up with a main layer and three additional layers , and I am enjoying it, as I don't have to move my fingers off home row (Except when using linux/unix style vi arrow keys ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I mapped my windows arrow keys to match this, since I use both OSes ). The first layer is the default function keys over the number keys, and I added the arrow keys to HJKL. On the second layer I made the numbers be a layer lock for all the different layers (I was experimenting on the 4th and 5th layer with different thumb clusters layouts.) The third layer is a COLEMAKs layout, and I plan one day to learn to type using that layout
Here is my current layout:
The switches are Cherry MX Browns, and I like the slight tactile'ness to them, but thought the springs were a little light (I am guessing 45g-48g). So I ordered 78g and 68g springs from Originative Co to replace some of the keys. I ended up replacing the entire home row with 78g springs, then replaced the keys above and below with 68g springs. The 2u thumb cluster keys were replaced with 78g springs. This has been a better feel (Less accidental presses when my finger slightly touches another key during a press.) I might in the future replace the 78g's with 68g's and replace the 68g's with 58g's.
I am working on a way to know when CapsLock, NumLock, and ScrollLock are "ON", so far my thoughts have been to add LED's along the thumb cluster edge (CTRL, ALT, and END/PGUP), or reprogram the LCD screen to show a status bar with the different icons. I would love to know what others are doing to know the status.
I am tenting my keyboard with the Kinesis tents (V3 Accessory for FreeStyle2) that I modified to let them lay flat on the keyboard. I am testing two methods of attaching them (Velcro and some thin plywood that I cut wedged and dovetailed, then superglued to each side.) both methods seem to work well so far, and I usually tent it to the 10 degree mark.
Here an image:
I still need to make a case for this, since I haul it back and forth to work in my backpack. I am currently using a folded up towel, and each half slides down into it a separate pouch. It is a little bulky, and I think a little woodworking would create a nice solution.
Well, that's all folks, thanks for reading :-)
MD sent me replacement PCBs but now I have to de-solder 80+ switches and transfer them to the new PCB. I asked MD to send me switches + PCBs and I will return the ones I got but that was a no go. Some day this year (hopefully) I will find time to de-solder the switches and try your idea out.
I am worried about water damage on it though. My hands tend to sweat a bit in warm temperatures.
In case this information helps, some of the LEDs work if I put positive side to the right and some (on the same hand) work if I put negative side to the right. Some don't work at all.
I thought some connection got reversed somewhere maybe that's why this happened but I don't know what to look for. I didn't know there were LED driver chips in there as well. If you can help me out, I will be very grateful.