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Thorheim
0
Jan 12, 2017
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Thorheim
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Jan 13, 2017
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TheFishermanOh I don't know the name it was the default tubes¨for no added fee upon purchase. (wasnt made on my account so can't see.) Sry
TheFisherman
15
Jan 13, 2017
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ThorheimOn the tubes where they face each other, if you see (from top to bottom) faint Chinese characters, a star, and "6J1," then those are the crappy, stock, factory tubes. As I've stated in an earlier post once you've verified that the LD 1+ will power on, had good input and output jacks, had balanced channels, had a clean potentiometer, and stayed that way for a day, it's time move on to new tubes.
What country do you reside?
What country do you reside?
Thorheim
0
Jan 14, 2017
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TheFishermanThanks for your answers, I reside in Sweden and this is my first amp except I have a little FiiO E10 DAC as well. Tried connecting them together and without, same result. The left tube has a "J" on it and the right has like a "C" or something, not too sure.
Yeah the LD1+ gets powered just fine, gets warm like I heard they do. I have RCA to 3mm which I'm thinking might be a bottleneck? Maybe I need RCA to RCA? (but dont have such an audio output on my desktop motherboard). A clean potentiometer I have no clue what it is I'm afraid. But it should be(?) I haven't used it that much it has a bit of dust over it that i clean every now and then since it collects it from all the computer air. I don't mind trying if new tubes would help I'm up for it. Found someone saying a specific model was good. (I'll link it, but if you have a recommendation please link :) ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/M8100-CV4010-5654-MULLARD-VINTAGE-MATCHED-PAIR-VALVE-TUBES-RING-GETTER-/311525214708 )
Yeah the LD1+ gets powered just fine, gets warm like I heard they do. I have RCA to 3mm which I'm thinking might be a bottleneck? Maybe I need RCA to RCA? (but dont have such an audio output on my desktop motherboard). A clean potentiometer I have no clue what it is I'm afraid. But it should be(?) I haven't used it that much it has a bit of dust over it that i clean every now and then since it collects it from all the computer air. I don't mind trying if new tubes would help I'm up for it. Found someone saying a specific model was good. (I'll link it, but if you have a recommendation please link :) ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/M8100-CV4010-5654-MULLARD-VINTAGE-MATCHED-PAIR-VALVE-TUBES-RING-GETTER-/311525214708 )
TheFisherman
15
Jan 14, 2017
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ThorheimThe potentiometer is the technical name of the volume control--"clean" means it adds no noise when turned.
If the RCA to 3.5mm is a quality set, it shouldn't be a bottle neck. I use a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PU4F8U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with my FIIO X1 without issues. Have also tried these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1m-Right-Angle-3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-to-2-RCA-Phono-Plugs-Cable-Gold-007915-/262224083342?hash=item3d0dc5f98e:g:CWoAAOSw3KFWfcwM without issues.
If you were in North America, I'd recommend trying a set of GE JAN5654W's but the shipping to Sweden will push the cost up to a set of Mullards or Voshkods which you could find from sources closer to Sweden. Use this as a guide: http://www.head-fi.org/t/563884/little-dot-tube-amps-vacuum-tube-rolling-guide and try to stay within the EF95 family. Any tube other than the EF95 will require you to change internal settings in the LD1.
If the RCA to 3.5mm is a quality set, it shouldn't be a bottle neck. I use a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PU4F8U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with my FIIO X1 without issues. Have also tried these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1m-Right-Angle-3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-to-2-RCA-Phono-Plugs-Cable-Gold-007915-/262224083342?hash=item3d0dc5f98e:g:CWoAAOSw3KFWfcwM without issues.
If you were in North America, I'd recommend trying a set of GE JAN5654W's but the shipping to Sweden will push the cost up to a set of Mullards or Voshkods which you could find from sources closer to Sweden. Use this as a guide: http://www.head-fi.org/t/563884/little-dot-tube-amps-vacuum-tube-rolling-guide and try to stay within the EF95 family. Any tube other than the EF95 will require you to change internal settings in the LD1.
Thorheim
0
Jan 15, 2017
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TheFishermanOh, alright that's a good way to put it. So I guess my potentiometer is dirty ha-ha!
I'd say the cable looks fine, its better than your second alternative and more alike your first. Oh I see, so correct me if I'm wrong. If I buy those Mullard I have to alter something inside it (which since I'm a beginner would rather not do.) . So I should Ebay search EF95 bulbs I'm guessing. Now the Mullard is in high regard of many people, could you perhaps link me to a pair that you would like/recomend? Perhaps a substitute for the Mullard?
(PS. Thank you so much for your answers so far, sorry for late replies. It's due to nightshift work.)
I'd say the cable looks fine, its better than your second alternative and more alike your first. Oh I see, so correct me if I'm wrong. If I buy those Mullard I have to alter something inside it (which since I'm a beginner would rather not do.) . So I should Ebay search EF95 bulbs I'm guessing. Now the Mullard is in high regard of many people, could you perhaps link me to a pair that you would like/recomend? Perhaps a substitute for the Mullard?
(PS. Thank you so much for your answers so far, sorry for late replies. It's due to nightshift work.)
TheFisherman
15
Jan 15, 2017
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ThorheimI'd say the volume control was "dirty" only if it is adding ADDITIONAL noise when you are changing volume levels--a "scratching" sound is the way I've experienced it with other amps . The test is if the LD is ON with NO audio source coming in; if the noise pattern sounds the same but just louder while you turn the knob then it's the 6J1 tubes that's the likely source.
No, no, the Mullard M8100 is IN the EF95 family. Had you wanted the Mullard M8161 then you would have to open the LD and set the correct switches/jumpers as shown in your user manual to have it run properly. That's why I went with the GE JAN5654W's...in the EF95 family (so same settings as the 6J1) and rated at 93/100 (relative on the http://www.head-fi.org/t/563884/little-dot-tube-amps-vacuum-tube-rolling-guide page)--1 point below the Mullard M8100 (94/100) and 2 points less than the Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV (95/100). The positive trade-off to the lower rating was that in the USA I can get the JAN5654W for significantly less than the M8100 or 6ZH1P-EV.
Being in Sweden, getting the M8100 from the UK or the 6ZH1P-EV from a former Soviet source (if you are comfortable with this--Karamfil from Bulgaria was hesitant in his post below) might be a better choice than shipping JAN5654W's all the way from the USA. Longer travel distances means more chances for things to break in transit in my opinion. A quick check on eBay shows a source in Belgium for the JAN5654W but at a total cost that's almost the same for the M8100 or 6ZH1P-EV.
No, no, the Mullard M8100 is IN the EF95 family. Had you wanted the Mullard M8161 then you would have to open the LD and set the correct switches/jumpers as shown in your user manual to have it run properly. That's why I went with the GE JAN5654W's...in the EF95 family (so same settings as the 6J1) and rated at 93/100 (relative on the http://www.head-fi.org/t/563884/little-dot-tube-amps-vacuum-tube-rolling-guide page)--1 point below the Mullard M8100 (94/100) and 2 points less than the Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV (95/100). The positive trade-off to the lower rating was that in the USA I can get the JAN5654W for significantly less than the M8100 or 6ZH1P-EV.
Being in Sweden, getting the M8100 from the UK or the 6ZH1P-EV from a former Soviet source (if you are comfortable with this--Karamfil from Bulgaria was hesitant in his post below) might be a better choice than shipping JAN5654W's all the way from the USA. Longer travel distances means more chances for things to break in transit in my opinion. A quick check on eBay shows a source in Belgium for the JAN5654W but at a total cost that's almost the same for the M8100 or 6ZH1P-EV.
Thorheim
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Jan 17, 2017
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TheFishermanAh interesting, whilst testing your idea here I noticed that if I unplugged the two RCA (audio source) the overall volume of the background noise became lower so I could make the volume with the knob way higher until it was bothersome but it's still there. But I noticed a more substantial scratch noise WHILST turning the knob up unplugged. Putting in the RCA again and there's no scratching whilst turning the knob BUT the awful background noise and screech is back.
Ah now I understand better, took a little look closer on the webpage you sent me. I think I'll order the Mullard M8100 then since it's in the UK which is just over the pond to Sweden, only 5 GBP and according to the hifi page overall review it sounds like they're made for me. :)
Yeah could imagine, great tips the least amount of travel will be the UK, a flight the out own services will take care of it so its 2 services basically.
I want to sincerely thank you for your tips and all the help. Amazing amount of information not even leaving a non native clueless! :) Learnt a bit on the way. Hope you feel my choice is OK let me know otherwise! And I'll probably reach out if it doesn't make it a bit better just to see if anything comes to mind ha-ha! :)
Cheers Fisherman!
Ah now I understand better, took a little look closer on the webpage you sent me. I think I'll order the Mullard M8100 then since it's in the UK which is just over the pond to Sweden, only 5 GBP and according to the hifi page overall review it sounds like they're made for me. :)
Yeah could imagine, great tips the least amount of travel will be the UK, a flight the out own services will take care of it so its 2 services basically.
I want to sincerely thank you for your tips and all the help. Amazing amount of information not even leaving a non native clueless! :) Learnt a bit on the way. Hope you feel my choice is OK let me know otherwise! And I'll probably reach out if it doesn't make it a bit better just to see if anything comes to mind ha-ha! :)
Cheers Fisherman!
TheFisherman
15
Jan 17, 2017
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ThorheimYou're welcome. Once the M8100's are burned in, the other things to watch out for are stray EMF emitted from other electronic devices near the LD and perhaps crossed cables. The LD is known to pick up on this interference and degrade the sound output.
Thorheim
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Jan 18, 2017
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TheFishermanYeah heard about that too, therefor I thought it might be good I connect it to a Dac and not into a motherboard for example. Right know the LD is positioned under my screen next to a small 2.0 speaker. It's hard to find any other nearby position for it.
Thorheim
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Mar 28, 2017
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TheFishermanThanks for all the help sir, I've been tinkering on my free days and I even bought a SUPRA cable (expensive cable in Sweden) and the new tubes but it still makes the noise. It's not the headphones it works well on its own, I even thought it was the 6.5mm jack because when I pull the cable out a bit and the right ears sound disappear the noise does too, but then when I plug it in again the noise comes back.
And it was very wierd some week ago I was rejoicing cus it finally worked without a sound and then I let my partner try it and as soon as I got em back it was bad again and fell into despair haha!
which makes me belive it has to be something sensitive, is the cables to close to eachother or is the actual DOT just broken and if so have I've been trying and bought all this stuff for so long that it might not have warranty?
If you are still there I'd love to hear your thoughts! Thanks for everything!
which makes me belive it has to be something sensitive, is the cables to close to eachother or is the actual DOT just broken and if so have I've been trying and bought all this stuff for so long that it might not have warranty?
If you are still there I'd love to hear your thoughts! Thanks for everything!
TheFisherman
15
Mar 29, 2017
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ThorheimHmm...the fact that it worked for momentarily and reverted back may indicate something is loose. Is your laptop the only sound source or do you have a standalone player of any sort that you can use as a sanity check?
Thorheim
0
Mar 29, 2017
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TheFishermanRight? Something just seems off. Well I guess since it's RCA to 3.5mm maybe I can plug it into my receiver around the tv, but might need to find a RCA to RCA cable for that but might be worth a shot. Otherwise I guess my Desktop is the only source I have at the moment. I'll give it a whirl!
Thorheim
0
Mar 29, 2017
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TheFishermanI now tried to just remove the RCA cable and just wiggle the tubes whilst its on and the sound continues and cracks a bit since I'm wiggling the tubes. Which makes us able to exclude that its headphones, adapters or cables fault cus everything of that works good with other units. Now, the tubes are fresh from England so It makes me believe that there's something wrong with the sockets. I don't know what I guess they're suppose to feel this hard and awkward. OR might it be electricity? Power? Does it get too much power or have the dot been broken this whole time?
I feel like the tubes looks a bit darkened by heat but I don't know if it's too bad or not.
Feel so bad since it's my partners gift to me and shes so sad about it not working good so I have to just use my cheap dac.
Thorheim
0
May 31, 2017
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TheFishermanWell honestly after all this testing I'm wondering if it isn't something wrong with the power cus I think I'm frying my tubes honestly. The top of the bulbs both new and old quickly turned black:ish. But I have the EU version in both cable and Voltage. At least what I know of since thats what was chosen. Could it be? (Picture added of the new bulbs after maximum of 16h used if even)
TheFisherman
15
May 31, 2017
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ThorheimI have mine connected to a surge-only protected socket of a UPS (not using the battery backed-up sockets since the simulated sine wave from the battery is based on square-stepping--bad for vacuum tubes). Unsure if it makes a different but it is peace of mind to me.
As for the blackish getter, that seems normal per this article: http://www.thetubestore.com/Resources/Matching-and-other-tube-info/Blue-Glow
As for the blackish getter, that seems normal per this article: http://www.thetubestore.com/Resources/Matching-and-other-tube-info/Blue-Glow
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Or what do you think the noise could be because of? The tubes seems fine, have tried to remove and replace but no major difference..
Any tip would be helpful, thanks! Best Regards / Erik G Thorheim