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merddynemrys
42
Aug 13, 2016
This just arrived. A couple of comments. Access to the switches/jumpers is NOT described in the manual (the settings are described). To access the setting components the user needs to remove ONLY the lower two screws at the BOTTOM of the front and back panels and the bottom just drops off (there are 14 screws visible from the outside of the case so save yourself the agony of removal of excessive screws). Since this is spun as a "modding" system it would be common sense and common courtesy to send enough jumpers for ALL the options. On this basis there are two jumpers NOT supplied for systems NOT using EF91...etc. The user will have to find these two extra jumpers if (s)he decides to use EF91's... in the future. A small point but it makes the difference between an average seller and a superior one. Little Dot should be encouraged by Massdrop to correct these omission (at least for systems sold through Massdrop).
Frogmeat
562
Aug 14, 2016
merddynemrysDid it come with an RCA cable?? In that package there should be 2 jumpers. I bought mine from Amazon, so might be different than Massdrop, though my MK III I bought from here came with the same pack of jumpers and cable.
Nemeios
45
Aug 14, 2016
FrogmeatYes, The packet with RCA cables has 2 jumpers in it. Thanks for pointing it out. I would have missed them as well. Though I don't have any shortage of jumpers, but it was good that the company had included all the pieces needed.
Frogmeat
562
Aug 14, 2016
NemeiosNo problem, only way I found out they were in there was reading about it on the Head-Fi forum thread on these amps, so happy to spread the info!
merddynemrys
42
Aug 15, 2016
FrogmeatYes, frog meat, the cables package contained the jumpers. Thanks for the info. I usually just throw this extraneous stuff in a big box in case I may need it in future. It does bring up another issue on documentation 'though. This information should probably be included (the fact that the extra jumpers are present and their location). Personally I would have preferred that the jumpers be included inside the housing attached to ONE of the pins on the unused jumper sockets (for the configuration that I ordered) or taped inside the housing. thanks again.
Jaggi
737
Aug 30, 2016
merddynemrysThanks for the tip about how to open up the case, I just got my unit and was wondering where to start with getting it open. The manual recommends opening up the case to check the jumper and switch settings before powering it up and this would have been useful info to have in the manual too.
For anyone else who needs to open the unit and get access to the jumpers and gain switches I'll repeat it here: you just need to remove the 2 screws at the bottom corners of the front and rear panels (4 screws in total) and then the bottom half of the case just lifts off exposing the main circuit board (it's mounted upside down and secured to the top half of the case).
I noticed that my unit had a loose part rattling around inside it as soon as it was removed from the box. Not a promising start. It turned out to be one of the 4 screws used to attach the main pcb to the case, and the other 3 were all loose as though they'd never been tightened.
After fixing that and double checking all the jumpers it's now powered up and working great. The hardest part turned out to be extracting the tubes from the tight fitting holes in the packing foam without damaging either the tubes or the foam (I wanted to keep the packaging in good condition for future use!)
The Little Dot I+ is right now powering 600 ohm DT-990s with ease, and I think it's still on the low gain setting (I found the manual diagram for the gain switches a little ambiguous, but I left them as I found them which was with the dip switches set to on). I'm quite happy with the sound, even with the standard 6JI tubes.
Apart from the loose screws the only other slight fault I can find is that the notch on the volume knob doesn't quite line up with the zero mark when turned all the way down. I can certainly live with that but if it's an easy fix I'd like to adjust it. There doesn't seem to be a set screw on the knob and I suspect that it's just a friction fit, but I've pulled on the knob as hard as I was comfortable with (without knowing for sure!) and it didn't budge.
Davestef
239
Dec 28, 2018
Nemeiosi have a LD1+ that i got used off ebay. It didnt come with the two extra jumpers. any idea where i can buy loose jumpers?
Davestef
239
Dec 29, 2018
Frogmeatawesome thanks!
Davestef
239
Jan 27, 2019
Frogmeatjust used the jumpers to try out different tubes (mullard ef91's) :) the amp didnt explode or catch on fire
Frogmeat
562
Jan 27, 2019
DavestefLOL, that's awesome, no fire is always good. What do you think of the Mullards?
Davestef
239
Jan 27, 2019
FrogmeatMine came used with WE 408a tubes. I swapped in the burson v5i opamp the other day (from the last drop). Which i thought made a big difference for the better. Just tried the mullards today for the first time. I think i like them better, they have a warmer sound signature maybe. But two big changes, the opamp and then the tubes, on like 6 different head phones. I need to go back and pick one headphone and do a proper A/B between the 408a and ef91. The opamp brought out more low end for sure. Id had to a/b it with the original to see what else it did to the sound.
Davestef
239
Jan 28, 2019
Frogmeatok so the mullards are a big improvement over the we408a. the sound is fuller and have a more balanced sound signature. the 408s sound kind of thin in comparison. less bass, and mid bass. more treble, not to say the treble on the mullards is rolled off. the 408 sounds more trebly. the mullards sound more natural. this is using the grado sr225e
Frogmeat
562
Jan 28, 2019
DavestefOne of these days I will check out a Grado headphone, my local store actually has about 5 different models, just not a fan of non removable cables. And glad you like the Mullards, I have a stack of tubes for both my Littledots, and the Mullard brand is always what I end up using.
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