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NMPacella
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Wanted to share a few things about what makes the T-X0 special to me: -Only a small amount available, this is a very limited run for Fostex. -Discontinued Mk II is the modder-favorite version. -A major manufacturer has done this much work in tuning based on community feedback
The drivers are so capable… I personally own a pair of these $900 custom-made headphones with Mk II drivers (and love them): https://enigmatic-audio.myshopify.com/products/enigma
Here’s how much has been done with the T50RP by the audiophile community: https://www.head-fi.org/f/articles/fostex-t50rp-modification-summary-links-wiki.14100/
Starting with a rebooted T50RP Mk. II as the base product, Fostex worked for more than a year with Massdrop and the community to modify the sound.
This is the first modified production Fostex T50RP Mk. II.
Lots of laser-cut Fostex foam damping is behind the driver in small sections of the housing, Fostex-made new hybrid perforated pads are based on community requests, there are changes in filters behind and in front of the driver as well as an added gasket to the driver housing.
I’m very thankful to Fostex for all of the work and time they have put into making this headphone for us. A few of them are on their way out for review now…
Personally I trust Fostex and Massdrop to deliver a well tuned T50RP mod much more than Mayflower.
I tried the Mayflower mod kit and ended up removing much of it because it killed so much of the bass. They only part of the kit that though was worth using was the cotton sheets placed behind the driver to reduce the treble and their upgraded baffle (sold separate from the kit).
I have a second T50RP MKIII with just the baffle and cotton and it sounds just as good. They both also have taped up vents behind the earpads to increase sub-bass.
I found my old JDS Las C5D sopunded a little cleaner and I loved it three way bass switch (0dB, +3dB & +6dB), but it couldn't drive planar's as good as the E5. The E5 will start to distort as you start to max the volume, but that's usually not needed.
I still prefer my desktop DAC/AMPs but the E5 will work and is very versatile with it's PC software, android and iOS compatibility and Bluetooth support.
But at the price of the HE-2SE I'd opt for a more powerful desktop DAC/AMP. Not only can it driver it to higher volumes but will likely offer greater Dynamics and punch. Planar like current.
The Audio-GD NFB-11 is in a similar price bracket and is considered and excellent bargain for its price. It's a great option unless you really need something portable.
If you want something less expensive the Fiio 5 is pretty powerful and about $110.
Often people forget that there is more to it than driving headphones to loud volumes. Some drivers, like planar's, like a good amount of curren . Delivering proper current to allow the driver to reach it's potential will bring added Dynamics and punch.
Also when pushed the portables I've used will start to distort at high volumes with hard to drive headphones and the dynamics will suffer, especially in the bass.
Still it did ok, just not quite the same as my NFB-11 (sometimes combines eith a garage1217 Project Polaris). At first the difference wasn't so noticeable, but the more time I spend with it the more I could tell the benefits of the added power.
Though I guess one could "tinker" with it if one so desired.
Just know the ordering process is a little "different" and a little wait for delivery from China, but worth it.
Enjoy.
It's just an AMP though, no DAC section, so keep that I'm mind.
I sold it eventually and its just a disgrace as an amp. It's made my EMU/X00 sound weak and I could feel it give in. It failed on my Hifiman or Senn... I don't even know what to appreciate in that dac/amp. And the amp section is the biggest compromise... And u need that the most for a T-X0.
A fiiO e09k/k5 is a much better pick (the much older now and $60 refurb e09k runs my He400i and HD6xx with great command and is an overkill for my Fostex X00). For portable, the xDuoo XD-05. And then so much more...
But I beg you... no e5.
If these remain semi-open like the MK. III or unmodded MK. II they will be great for gaming. Either way I think you'll be happy.
That might not seem like a big difference, but you have to understand that decibels are not a linear measurement. Every 3dB is a doubling of the sound intensity. Every 10dB is considered (at least by Google search) a doubling of the percieved sound level. I'm not sure how sensitivity levels translate to the actual produced sound level, but if you get an extra 24dB of sound from the same power output of an amp, that means the GAME ONEs would be percieved to be over four times as loud as the T-X0s.
I needed an amp to get the best performance out of my GAME ONEs with my PC. I'm not exactly sure whether you need four times the power to get four times the percieved volume (nothing in sound is linear, which breaks my head, so I give up), but it should at least demonstrate that you will need a decent amp to push good sound out of these.
The T50RPs are know for being hard to drive.
I'm in, now the long wait till October.
Massdrop nose knows.
My bad. There wasn't anything you said that I disagree with.
Yes they are 50 ohms, but use inefficient planar magnetic drivers that generally require more current to be driven to their potential and the T50RP require more power than any of my other planar headphones.
Will you get audio out of an iPhone, sure. Will it have the dynamics and impact it should and is capable of, not at all.
Listening right now between my NFB-11 (about 50%) and iPad Mini (at 100%) and the iPad volume is just barely loud enough to get by and I'd like several more "clicks" in volume. The bass also has far less impact.
They are far from their potential from an iDevice and most android device have even weaker built in AMPs.
There is more to it than just the ohms rating. Most planars have relativelylow ohms rating but are notorious for needing a good amount of power to drive. Beyerdynamics Tesla drivers can have a high 250 ohms rating but are so efficient they the are far easier to drive then you typical dynamic driver.
3dB is a doubling of the power, or intensity, of sound; 6dB is a doubling of the sound pressure level (SPL, which corresponds to voltage); 10dB is a rough estimate of the doubling of the loudness, or percieved volume, of sound. But, it depends on a person's hearing and the frequency of the sound wave;
It is definitely logarithmic, which is why it is so hard to understand (at least, I don't completely grasp it, I just have a sort of general idea). The problem is that 10dB is just an average, so people will still disagree subjectively on how powerful the amp will need to be depending on their hearing and the type of music to which they are listening.
Obviously, and thanksfully, they didn't ask EVERYONE.... That would of likely been a disaster. ;)
If you take NwAvGuy's (the guy who created the O2 headphone amp) advice (seen here: http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/02/headphone-impedance-explained.html?m=1), you should looks for headphones with an impedence of 16-32ohms AND a sensitivity of at least 100dB if you want to use them with a mobile device without an amp. I doubt a computer's motherboard integrated sound card provides significantly more power than a mobile device (there is no real information as to what the "average" integrated audio headphone jack provides, so I'm guessing based on people's comments and articles regarding headphone usage and integrated audio). These headphones (and practically all planar magnetic headphone drivers) are both higher impedence and lower sensitivity than those recommendations. That is what makes planar magnetics so hard to drive. They are not as sensitive as dynamic drivers are because of the way they are made.
One of these days I'll have to go self-reeducate on some maths. :)
Few people have had a chance to try the T-X0, but opening of the T50RP isn't large and at normal listening levels it won't leak a lot. It offers some isolation. So it depends on what you want to do with it.
While actually playing music outside noise is usually hard to hear.
Maybe I was thinking of some other site.
That includes when they run out of the 1900 available, however.
Can you please add the option to minimize the entire stickied conversation? As it stands now I have to scroll through two weeks of replies to your stickied post before I get to the newest posts which is probably going to leave a lot of newbie questions unanswered.