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My blue just showed up today! # 0316.
I absolutely love it. It's actually more of a blurple than blue, but I like the color.
Blade is dead centered, great lock up, zero play in any direction. Only slight issue that really is just preference, is it has a very strong detent. Can't spydie flick it. Might break in some, but not a huge deal anyways.
I know I'm way in the minority, but I actually like the pocket clip. At least the looks of it and so far the functionality. We'll see how it holds up.
EDIT: The lock can be VERY hard to disengage. Mine is starting to stick a little where I can barely disengage with one hand. It takes a lot of effort when it sticks. Even when it doesn't stick, it takes a little more force than is comfortable.
Have you tried a little graphite on the lock face on the knife blade? Sometimes that's a good fix. Just use a pencil and mark it all up where the blade meets the lockbar (insert). Won't hurt anything, and it cleans up easily if you don't like it. It can be a cheap fix/lube for a lock that's breaking in. You don't want to use oil--the graphite is just right.
Maybe. Good luck with it.
I just tried this and it did help some, thanks.
Not great but better.
I wish they would do something like this with the lockbar insert:
This is my spyderco dice but lots of knives have the same part of the stainless steel insert come out a little with a little gimping so your thumb gets some purchase and it's a little easier to push the lock over to disengage.
Oh well though. All in all I'm really happy with the knife and for the price it's a very high value knife.
The lighting in the pic did not look nearly as dark when I took it, but I think you can still see what I mean.
I got mine in yesterday (blurple #392) and I have been trying to break it in but still hard to disengage. I did the graphite/pencil thing and helped a bit as well. But still very hard to disengage.
I personally feel there should be a minimum of more access from the front scale. When I had mine apart for the first time, I did grind the thumb access open just a hair more. But wasn't enough. Unfortunately I forgot to do more the last time it was apart for anodizing.
But I did remember to do some work on my Crux while taken down. Opened up the front scale recess. And rounded off the edges of thumb contact around the lock. It is now a pleasure to open and close. And because I am the way I am, to flip without purpose, time after time. My current designated OCD knife is my Kizer IFT, Ki3452. I've estimated that this knife has somewhere north of 15,000 full, relatively hard fired flips on it (full open, lockup, and closure). Still has a perfect action and solid lockup. Yeah, I know, just a bit crazy. 🤪
Can you explain what you mean by opening up the front scale recess? Do you mean grinding out material?
Yes, sorry, I wasn't very clear. I did use a Dremel to grind out the area of the front scale (followed with a little hand sanding), just in front of the lock. This gives a little more access to the lock with my thumb. Which also makes the lock easier to unlock. It doesn't take much. But it's amazing what an extra ~1/16" of space can do.
Any chance you could post a pic of what it ended up looking like? I'm considering doing the same thing.
Last night I took mine apart and got it all cleaned up. More put of curiosity than anything, since the action was already really good.
Going home now to give it the kme treatment! The blade looks like it should be pretty straight forward to sharpen. I've never sharpened s35vn, but I think it will be fine. I've sharpened harder steels with no issues with the kme diamond stones.
If anyone is looking for a sharpening system, I highly recommend the kme.
I agree. The KME with diamond stones is about as good as it gets.
For the lock access, I did not take my Falcon far enough. So that one is back on the to-do list. But here is a pic of my Crux just before my last ano. It's a dream to unlock now.
Ok. Yeah that looks pretty good. Not really noticeable.
As most people that go as far as a KME, or WickedEdge into their knives, of course obtaining the full mirrored edge seems to be one of those rights of passage. Everyone has a few show peices around. 😎
But, have you ever tried a jeweled edge? 🤯 I really like them. They show like diamonds in the right light. The final edge can always be customized with a micro bevel. So you can have that show peice, but still have a slick razor, or toothy cutter....Dealers choice. 😎🤪🤯
Man. I just typed out a really long reply to this with a pic of my falcon I just finished sharpening and I somehow lost the post so it's all gone. Oh well..
To answer your question, I'm not exactly sure what a jewel edge is. I've heard of it, but just thought it was multiple bevels. Like more than a micro bevel.
Those edges look sick though. Nice work!
For my jeweled edges, I basically take them out to a fairly fine edge (1200-1500). Possibly even strop to a mirror. Then go back and add some micro swirls to the face. Personally, I like my working knives to have a little teeth. So if after a bit of swirling on a very fine edge, it may just have the right amount of "toothiness". If not, I can do a micro with the desired edge.
Ok. Yeah I usually go through the stones to 1500 then the spyderco ultra fine cut for the kme, then a black arkansas, 6 micron film, 4 micron strop then 1.5 micron strop.
But for my falcon I justg did I skipped the ceramic, Arkansas and polishing tape and went to the strops from the 1500.
So I ended up with a stupid sharp blade with a nice looking finish but wasnt worried about trying to mirror it.
Some blades I do though. This knife I'll be using a little too much and hard.
I might try a jeweled edge on one of my less used knives.
Do you use a kme? Do you know of any video tutorials on it?
My FF falcon
Not quite mirrored but looks decent.
Very very sharp.
I do use a KME to set my edges/reprofile. On the KME, I only use the diamonds, and kangaroo strops with cbn emulations. I don't bother with the Arkansas stones or the like. Anything that can have different thicknesses from stone to stone creates different problems with settings.
Then for basic touch-ups, mostly use a Sharpmaker and/or a bunch of strops. I'm not aware of any specific training videos. I have watched a metric boat load of YouTube sharpening in general, some KME specific.
If you are looking for technical help, I spend a bunch of time on bladeforums.com in the maintenance and tinkering section. Also learned a ton at 1911forum.com in the blades section. Lots of pro's willing to spend time teaching. Of course, if you have some product specific questions, you can call KME direct. All good people.
I just meant videos specific to jeweled edges. I've also watched hours on sharpening and a lot on the kme.
I've got a decent technique.
For the different stone thicknesses I use the stone thickness compensator. It works well. Within a couple tenths of a degree.
Ah Bach. Sounds like you are well versed on the KME. The jeweling thing I just came up with on my own to do something a little different than everyone's same-ole mirrored edges. Then it just sort of took off. Everyone I showed it to wanted it on their knives. I ended up doing a bunch of free sharpening. 😬
I'm most definitely not an expert. I've only had my kme for a few months. I can say I'm confident that I'll get an extremely sharp knife that looks pretty good and I won't scratch up the blade.
I've done a few that have turned out pretty sweet, but I'm still learning new things all the time. Brian (knifeguy on youtube) who is the tech support for kme has been really helpful. I just started putting a single serration sharpening choil on all my spydercos based on one of his YouTube tutorials. Works really well actually.
Did you have any trouble sharpening the heel of that 0450cf on the kme?
I'm gonna do mine soon, and the choil looks basically worthless because of the plunge.
No real issues with the 0450. I did end up with a very slight bevel flair on the last maybe 1/16"-1/8" at the heel. But not really even noticeable unless looking for it.
I finally put the Falcon on the KME. Was holding off while I was still playing around with cosmetics. When it arrived, it could barely bludgeon paper. Knowing I'd be playing with it, I just gave it a few minutes on the Sharpmaker, so it would at least cut paper. But today I freshened the ano, so decided it was time for a proper edge also. Finally looking sharp ain't all she's got. 😎
Very nice! Turned out well.
Annodizing looks like it would be worth learning.