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Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 13, 2017
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BrainFlush
6860
Jun 13, 2017
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WillI heard a lot of terms and understood none of it. Thats ok.
I can't spend time in the category discussions. Too busy commenting and trying to buy everything on MD.
That being said. I said a few days ago I never wear jeans let alone pants. Fact. 17 years now without and I still get hired and I'm not in construction.
I never finished this mind track. Point was. I might buy these. Ooops.
That being said. I said a few days ago I never wear jeans let alone pants. Fact. 17 years now without and I still get hired and I'm not in construction.
I never finished this mind track. Point was. I might buy these. Ooops.
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 14, 2017
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naterwSounds like 33 would be your best bet going off the size chart. It starts with a waist of 35" and will stretch .5"-1" as you wear it.
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 19, 2017
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drjd24Hmm, 36" length is going to make it tough. These only come in a 34" length so I don't think they'll fit you well, sorry to be the bearer of bad news : (
BigLobedWelder
10
Jun 19, 2017
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WillHello Will. I'm eager to give these a shot, but I could use some sizing assistance. I generally wear a 32, which is slightly sloppy, but not even close to falling down. I can squeeze into a 30, on a good day, but not comfortably. I'd fear the button flying off and injuring a bystander. Anyways, my jeans tend to sit below my belly, which I consider normal for most people who have bellies. If I wore them near my belly button, I'd need larger, for sure. I've recently joined a gym, and expect some change in my size, but also nothing very dramatic. Despite the gut, I don't really have huge legs or anything. My hip bones are right under my skin. So, assuming I wear these as I wear my other jeans, should I just order my usual size of 32? Thanks.
BrainFlush
6860
Jun 19, 2017
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BigLobedWelderSame bro.
I ordered the 32"
I can force 30 but it's not nice so I don't.
And I kind of workout. Hope that helps.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 20, 2017
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WillWith how popular raw denim is, especially in the denimhead community, why are these sanforized?
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 20, 2017
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AnentHey Anent, take a look at the size chart and compare the knee and leg opening measurements with your best fitting jeans.
Most of my friends who frequent the iron temple and /r/rawdenim don't complain about calf measurements as much as they do thigh measurements. Generally they get stuck sizing up for the thighs, but end up with waists and leg openings that are too large.
The size chart has measurements on the thighs as well, so I'd check that while you've got the measuring tape out.
If you said your waist size I could maybe make a recommendation, but measuring is your safest bet.
Most of my friends who frequent the iron temple and /r/rawdenim don't complain about calf measurements as much as they do thigh measurements. Generally they get stuck sizing up for the thighs, but end up with waists and leg openings that are too large.
The size chart has measurements on the thighs as well, so I'd check that while you've got the measuring tape out.
If you said your waist size I could maybe make a recommendation, but measuring is your safest bet.
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 20, 2017
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ijc498Tellason's sizing charts don't list specific measurements, so I can't give you an easy conversion. Safest bet is getting out the measuring tape and matching with the size chart in the description.
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 20, 2017
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idangHey idang, I can't find much on the slim guy, but if you're talking about the skinny guy, N&F's size chart says a 34 in weird guy has a 7.75" leg opening where the 34 in skinny guy has a leg opening of 8". So if you're trying for just a bit tighter, seems like keeping with the 34 will work.
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 20, 2017
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dead_pixel_designYour question assumes denim is not considered raw if it's been sanforized. The vast majority of people in the raw denim industry would disagree with that, but let me answer your question before getting too deep on this:
These jeans are sanforized because unsanforized denim adds a significant level of complexity to the sizing decision, especially for people new to raw denim. Based on their activity on Massdrop, I can tell you most of the purchasers on this drop are buying their first pair of raws (as was the goal), so to add the additional variable of considerable shrinkage seen in unsanforized denim would lead to a lot of disappointed people, especially considering Massdrop is final sale.
These jeans are sanforized because unsanforized denim adds a significant level of complexity to the sizing decision, especially for people new to raw denim. Based on their activity on Massdrop, I can tell you most of the purchasers on this drop are buying their first pair of raws (as was the goal), so to add the additional variable of considerable shrinkage seen in unsanforized denim would lead to a lot of disappointed people, especially considering Massdrop is final sale.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 21, 2017
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WillThat makes sense, I wasn't seeing this from the perspective that you are trying to market this to people that aren't a part of the community, or with an understanding of what goes into owning raw. I'm a purist though and still see sanforized as treated-not-raw.
Hopefully we'll see more denim on MD and maybe a few unsanforized raws down the road
Will
8470
Chief Product Officer
Jun 21, 2017
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dead_pixel_designyessir, the success of the Ichiban is the main thing we're looking at as we consider higher end collaborations (which would generally be unsanforized). That said, if unsanforized is your thing, keep your eyes open for the N&F 2018 season later this year.
Anent
167
Jun 21, 2017
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WillThank you for the reply. I've measured and still not certain when looking at the sizing chart on MD. My approximate measurements (me, rather than jeans): 1. waist 34-35" (36" on xmas?!), 2. front rise -meh, 3. upper thigh 25-27" (wider lower than #3 in schematic), 4&5.-?-calf 16-17" (not sure the rate of change from #4 to #5), 6. inseam 31-32" (oh well). If it's close, please indicate such rather than just a 'no.' Thanks again for helping.
BUMP @Will
BUMP @Will
Varholiaglimp
939
Jun 21, 2017
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WillHey, I'm 6"26' and am a recovering snuff tobacco fiend. Will these jeans fit me?
Here's my real question:
Does a size 34 in the skinny guy style translate to a 34 in the new weird guy style?
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 21, 2017
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VarholiaglimpSkinny Guy size 34 has an ≈35" waist with a 37" inseam where the Weird Guy size 34 has a 36" waist with a 34.5" inseam. My guess would be that a size 33 in the weird guy might fit a little closer to what you are wearing in the Skinny Guy, but will be a bit shorter
Varholiaglimp
939
Jun 21, 2017
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AnentThanks for that, Anent; I'd looked at that page before. I posted to see whether anyone had experience with or knowledge about the practical differences.
However, I just read Will's response to another poster and it appears that the big difference is a narrower leg opening for the Weird Guy cut. I'd have noticed that if I'd clicked on the measurements of the official guide and looked at them more carefully.
N&F should offer a generated comparison chart instead of expecting readers to hold all the measurements of a previous style in their heads while looking at the next style.
However, I just read Will's response to another poster and it appears that the big difference is a narrower leg opening for the Weird Guy cut. I'd have noticed that if I'd clicked on the measurements of the official guide and looked at them more carefully.
N&F should offer a generated comparison chart instead of expecting readers to hold all the measurements of a previous style in their heads while looking at the next style.
Varholiaglimp
939
Jun 21, 2017
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dead_pixel_designThanks for that, DPD.
The WG style seems to have a narrower leg and a wider waist than the SG. If I understood MD's product page specs correctly, the length is 34.5", as you said, but that's true for every size.
The WG style seems to have a narrower leg and a wider waist than the SG. If I understood MD's product page specs correctly, the length is 34.5", as you said, but that's true for every size.
Anent
167
Jun 21, 2017
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VarholiaglimpYep. Trying to get a definitive response on the sizing as my legs may not fit.... :-/
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 21, 2017
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VarholiaglimpI always have to use a word processing program to do side by sides, this might help for what you were looking at:
Sz Wst Rise UpThi Knee Open Inseam
Skinny Guy
34 35 10.25 11.5 8.5 8 37
Weird
33 35 11.25 12.5 8.5 7.5 34.5
34 36 11.25 12.5 8.75 7.75 34.5
BrainFlush
6860
Jun 21, 2017
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WillDon't own any jeans.
As you've maybe heard or seen.
These are my first pair ever.
So thanks for making it easy on me.
I have no idea what I'm doing but I want these jeans so I bought them.
Here's to wearing something I never wear thanks to you guys.
They'll probably end up enshrined or encapsulated but at least I'll own a pair. :D
rlausa
40
Jun 21, 2017
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WillHi Will, I really love the color of this dye. And I really want to get one. But I am afraid of the size. Will it shrink a bit after washing? Meanwhile, I wear 34" on Levi's Jean and I am 6", 173 lbs. Should I go for 35" or 33" on this beautiful jean? Thank you!
Varholiaglimp
939
Jun 22, 2017
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rlausaDon't worry about excessive shrinking because the selvedge jeans in this drop are sanforized. The purpose of sanforization is to prevent major shrinkage.
Technically, you can put sanforized jeans in the washing machine (I would never dry them), but I personally won't be doing that (see below).
If you're worried about shrinkage, you should do what's recommended for unsanforized denim jeans: freeze them in a plastic bag and kill the bacteria instead of washing them in lukewarm water.
Two other advantages to that method:
(1) The fades and faded creases will be caused by you and not the washer and dryer. They'll conform to your body and the drape: to the way that the jeans fit you. (2) The dye will retain its color for a longer period of time.
If you feel you have to wash them, I'd recommend soaking them in lukewarm water. Cold and warm water will remove a bit more dye.
Technically, you can put sanforized jeans in the washing machine (I would never dry them), but I personally won't be doing that (see below).
If you're worried about shrinkage, you should do what's recommended for unsanforized denim jeans: freeze them in a plastic bag and kill the bacteria instead of washing them in lukewarm water.
Two other advantages to that method:
(1) The fades and faded creases will be caused by you and not the washer and dryer. They'll conform to your body and the drape: to the way that the jeans fit you. (2) The dye will retain its color for a longer period of time.
If you feel you have to wash them, I'd recommend soaking them in lukewarm water. Cold and warm water will remove a bit more dye.
Varholiaglimp
939
Jun 22, 2017
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Will"[T]he success of the Ichiban is the main thing we're looking at as we consider higher end collaborations (which would generally be unsanforized). That said, if unsanforized is your thing, keep your eyes open for the N&F 2018 season later this year. "
This is great news -- unsanforized Japanese denim from Massdrop for early 2018! Will you be targeting the fall/winter or spring/summer season, or will you strive to make the jeans work in every season? I'm asking partly because fall/winter could involve a heavier gauge and possibly a darker shade of blue. Either season could dictate interesting choices.
This is great news -- unsanforized Japanese denim from Massdrop for early 2018! Will you be targeting the fall/winter or spring/summer season, or will you strive to make the jeans work in every season? I'm asking partly because fall/winter could involve a heavier gauge and possibly a darker shade of blue. Either season could dictate interesting choices.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 22, 2017
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VarholiaglimpI would amend that freezing to kill bacteria is heavily debated in the community (I personally practice it myself with infrequent washing) and that all denim should be washed on occasion because things that freezing can't get rid of like dirt, grease and oil will see your jeans wear out faster and blow out more frequently. But I also vinegar soak my denim to set the dye so it fades less, which people tend to avoid so they can get those "sick combs"
Varholiaglimp
939
Jun 22, 2017
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dead_pixel_designAll good points, as long as people know that "infrequent washing" can mean soaking a year later.
I tend to wear my jeans in situations in which dirt and grease aren't major factors, but for some people, customizing jeans via use means wearing them in environments and situations that maximize exposure to those very things (in which cases, blown seams and fabric in unrevealing areas might even be desirable for them). Did you happen to see that Netflix documentary about the fellow who hunts down destroyed 1930s-50s Levis worn by unknown coal miners and gas pump virtuosi and resells them to boutiques and collectors for figures like $30,000?
If I ever found jeans that I thought were the perfect color, I'd definitely try vinegar. So far, I've been too interested in the experiment to do that. I always seem to want to watch what happens and follow the process to the end (which is the way I write fiction, too).
I tend to wear my jeans in situations in which dirt and grease aren't major factors, but for some people, customizing jeans via use means wearing them in environments and situations that maximize exposure to those very things (in which cases, blown seams and fabric in unrevealing areas might even be desirable for them). Did you happen to see that Netflix documentary about the fellow who hunts down destroyed 1930s-50s Levis worn by unknown coal miners and gas pump virtuosi and resells them to boutiques and collectors for figures like $30,000?
If I ever found jeans that I thought were the perfect color, I'd definitely try vinegar. So far, I've been too interested in the experiment to do that. I always seem to want to watch what happens and follow the process to the end (which is the way I write fiction, too).
Fadarrizz
1
Jun 22, 2017
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WillHi Will, I've got a question.
Normally I wear jeans with a waist size of 28/29.
Do you think I'm able to join the drop?
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 22, 2017
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Varholiaglimpi will definitely hunt down that documentary, that sounds crazy interesting!!
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 22, 2017
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LoneOakI think he was just saying he doesn't own *jeans* specifically
Anent
167
Jun 23, 2017
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dead_pixel_designI think he was messing around ... mu mu, kilt, etc.
BrainFlush
6860
Jun 23, 2017
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AnentNo.
Here's my actual response.
I don't wear pants. Like ever. I had a couple closet shots but seem to have misplaced my mind. And I'm not home currently.
Point is. Shorts or naked. Stupid or crazy. I'll take stupid shorts or being naked crazy over pants ever always.
Until now. Yeah I bought these. No. I'm ignorant to denim. I want to eventually make these a project of mine in the denim field that I'm ignorant in.
I'm reading all these comments to get informed. Because I'm clueless and can't stand being restricted. Pants or not. ;)
Here's my actual response.
I don't wear pants. Like ever. I had a couple closet shots but seem to have misplaced my mind. And I'm not home currently.
Point is. Shorts or naked. Stupid or crazy. I'll take stupid shorts or being naked crazy over pants ever always.
Until now. Yeah I bought these. No. I'm ignorant to denim. I want to eventually make these a project of mine in the denim field that I'm ignorant in.
I'm reading all these comments to get informed. Because I'm clueless and can't stand being restricted. Pants or not. ;)
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 23, 2017
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BrainFlushThese Denim 101 articles from Heddels (previous RawrDenim) will give you a lot of really great foundational information from one of the best (in my opinion) denimhead sites out there:
https://www.heddels.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ https://www.heddels.com/2011/03/the-rundown-on-selvedge-denim-what-is-it-all-about/ https://www.heddels.com/2014/09/three-tiers-raw-denim-entry-mid-end-level-jeans/ https://www.heddels.com/2013/01/the-complete-guide-to-understanding-raw-denim-weights/ https://www.heddels.com/2012/02/new-to-raw-denim-5-things-i-wish-id-known/
https://www.heddels.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ https://www.heddels.com/2011/03/the-rundown-on-selvedge-denim-what-is-it-all-about/ https://www.heddels.com/2014/09/three-tiers-raw-denim-entry-mid-end-level-jeans/ https://www.heddels.com/2013/01/the-complete-guide-to-understanding-raw-denim-weights/ https://www.heddels.com/2012/02/new-to-raw-denim-5-things-i-wish-id-known/
BrainFlush
6860
Jun 23, 2017
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dead_pixel_designDear god...aka MassDrop.
Can I get someone to just be my denim savant? Save me time.
Thanks for the links. I'll bookmark them and read time permitting. Seriously.
Thanks for the links. I'll bookmark them and read time permitting. Seriously.
andreyer
17
Jun 24, 2017
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rlausaThe fabric has been sanforized, so expect a minimal shrinkage, barely noticeable.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 24, 2017
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andreyerEdit: ^ sage advice, shouldnt see more than typical shrinkage when washed normally, which denimheads recommend you not do anyways because fades
andreyer
17
Jun 24, 2017
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dead_pixel_designNow I was talking about"shrinkage", not "stretching". The 4 inches figure is for "stretching" when fully broken in.
Sanforized fabric has a minimal shrinkage, barely noticeable, as you may know already. N&F says 1 to 3%.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 24, 2017
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andreyerOh! I totally misread that! I will edit my above post. Truths!
andreyer
17
Jun 24, 2017
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dead_pixel_designHey, no big deal!!! Your posts are very useful. I'm trying my best for the newbies, too.
I know what is to buy the wrong size and have my jewels crushed against the fly, hahaha.
I forgot to say: Sit-Ups!!!
boss
0
Jun 28, 2017
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Varholiaglimpfreezing them doesn't do much, it only works while it stays cooled.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jun 28, 2017
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bossIt's still debated within the community, but is generally an accepted short term alternative by the majority of the community, and shown to be effective.
I have read articles debunking it as a myth and I have also read articles proving it's effectiveness through reasonable scientific method.
Personally I've had good luck with this method in eliminating odor for much longer than a 'only works while it stays cooled' timeframe, but seeing as how there is no definitive answer on either side of the fence your mileage may vary.
https://www.heddels.com/2011/04/cleaning-via-freezing-controversial-but-effective/
I have read articles debunking it as a myth and I have also read articles proving it's effectiveness through reasonable scientific method.
Personally I've had good luck with this method in eliminating odor for much longer than a 'only works while it stays cooled' timeframe, but seeing as how there is no definitive answer on either side of the fence your mileage may vary.
https://www.heddels.com/2011/04/cleaning-via-freezing-controversial-but-effective/
Elsid
697
Jul 11, 2017
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BrainFlushHi Brain, the other day, I was talking with a fellow and trying to get my phone off of my levis, and said I'm sorry, I'm not used to wearing pants. Realizing after his funny look, I explained that I usually wear overalls. Anyway, these look nice and being that they're the weird guy cut, I thought they might go over well in the audiophile community. Haha. And here we are.
BrainFlush
6860
Jul 11, 2017
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Elsid:D
At least you didn't say "I'm used to being naked." And then proceeded to put the phone away. ;)
At least you didn't say "I'm used to being naked." And then proceeded to put the phone away. ;)
dead_pixel_design
654
Jul 17, 2017
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Cambothese are cut to be a little roomier from the knee up, but not loose.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jul 23, 2017
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I don't believe this one is going to run again, but keep an eye on the discussion once order start arriving. There will inevitably be a handful of people that got the wrong size or don't like the cut, and since there aren't any returns they will likely be happy to sell them to you
Cambo
422
Jul 23, 2017
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dead_pixel_designActually it is quite likely this will run again eventually. Not within the next few months though.
dead_pixel_design
654
Jul 23, 2017
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CamboNo. Naked and Famous has always had a pretty strong policy on not doing multiple runs of their special edition jeans. We might see different jeans, but we will probably not see these again.
Cambo
422
Jul 23, 2017
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dead_pixel_designIt doesn't say anywhere on the drop description that its a special/limited edition
Varholiaglimp
939
Jul 23, 2017
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CamboDPD's talking about what Naked & Famous tends to do with runs of jeans that use limited kinds of denim, such as the one that is used for the Ichibans. "Special" means a specific origin and series of dyeing and processing decisions, which in turn lead to particular qualities in the finished denim, not simply labeling jeans as limited per se. Watch the Massdrop video and look for the wall of drastically different specimens.
A Massdrop rep also said that the Ichibans were the first of a projected series of jean collaborations, and that unsanforized denim (for example) would be offered at a later point.
A Massdrop rep also said that the Ichibans were the first of a projected series of jean collaborations, and that unsanforized denim (for example) would be offered at a later point.
dead_pixel_design
654
Sep 20, 2017
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WillWill, any word from N/F or news on production? The behind the scenes of making raw, selvedged denim is an awesome process, would love to get updates and info as production goes...
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Wanted to share a few things that make the Ichiban Selvage special to me:
1. The denim is custom woven for this collaboration in Japan based on the discussions around raw denim on Massdrop, /r/rawdenim, and styleforum.
2. The weight of the denim makes it substantial enough to achieve a great spectrum of fades, but at 13.75oz it's still wearable during all four seasons.
3. The weft is rope dyed with natural indigo (directly from the indigo plant, not chemical recreation indigo) which again, should produce a beautiful spectrum of fades.
4. The fabric has just a little slub to give it texture without creating an obviously slubby fade pattern.
5. The selvedge ID is a unique Massdrop blue.
Our goal with the Ichiban was to create a denim that would warrant a spot in an enthusiast’s rotation, while attracting new people to the community with an accessible price and feature set.
We have to drag some partners kicking and screaming into community first design, but not NF. If you've been around the raw denim community for some time, you'll know Bahzad (your main man on this project at NF) was born on the forums and never left. Just as we were about to reach out, we got an email from Bahzad (we're talking about a couple hour window) looking to explore the possibility of a community first collaboration and you're looking at the result.
To add a data point on sizing, I'm usually a size 35-36 in Uniqlo jeans (slimmer fit, waist fairly tts). In the weird guy fit, the 34 fit me snugly and has stretched to the perfect level of comfort over the couple weeks I've been wearing them. I'm 6’3” and 215lb for reference.
If you've got questions about the product, reply to this post and I'll do my best to answer in a timely fashion.
Thanks for your interest in this product and supporting our collaborations!