*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Or if you'd rather have a PCB, the Six Shooter from 1upkeyboards might be what you're looking for.
No affiliation between me and any of these companies... I'm just a happy customer :)
For my custom, I started by putting my hand in a neutral, comfortable position on a piece of paper and tracing my fingertips, then moving them up and down and left and right, and tracing each spot. Scanned the sheet, drafted it up in AutoCAD, measured my comfortable width (18") and rotation (33.5 deg), and started making it work. I had to adjust the positions a little bit from ideal, because they were perfect for switches, but too close for keycaps to fit! Once I had a physical layout, I made it up as close as possible in Keyboard Layout Editor, and ended up with this: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/c2f3bd990419b8d98c87bfa9e10ec41a The numpad and macro clusters are pretty accurate, but the keyboard plates actually look like this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qy9fm4dgktppzc0/Lasergist%20plates%20Model%20%281%29.pdf?dl=0
Still toying with the layout, and I haven't fleshed out all the macro buttons yet, but those are mostly going to be AutoCAD-oriented.
I drew up the switch plates and sent 'em out to Ponoko for acrylic cutting. Unfortunately, in making it work, I deleted a couple keys which turned out to be important for a QWERTY-esque layout. Didn't spot that before I sent it out for cutting. I made a couple other changes for practicality's sake, which is why the design I linked above is v3 :). Awaiting delivery of the latest iteration in stainless now! This is going to be a little tricky to wire, a lot moreso than an ortholinear, or even a staggered column layout.
I can't use the keyboard switch plates as intended, but I'm thinking about wiring them up still to use as a gamepad or something. I mean, I already have it cut! I broke the numpad plate, though. Failed experiment in thin acrylic switch plate so the switches can snap in, glued to a thick support plate. I didn't have enough support in the middle of the ten-key pad. So it turns out my entire acrylic order was a bust. I'll need to get another numpad plate cut, and probably go with stainless to match the new keyboard plates. I have a feeling I'm going to want to rotate the numpad, too. I don't think my wrist is going to like that angle. Shame, though... the thin-switch-plate-glued-to-a-thick-support-plate thing was working great. I just need a better structural design :).
I haven't designed the case yet... I still need to measure my preferred tenting angle and decide on a format and material... curved, angular, wood, acrylic, steel, etc. This is going to be big, though, so I think I'm going to incorporate a powered USB 3 hub. I'm even toying with the idea of putting a Raspberry Pi in there, so it can flash its own firmware!
I'm a split addict. My wrists haven't liked standard boards for nearly 20 years now. I thought the ErgoDox would be perfect, because the angle could be whatever I want it to be, but it turns out I just keep sliding them around and ending up off. That's why this project is going to have fixed angles. It's all just a big experiment, really. Hey, maybe if it works out, I'll start charging immoral amounts of money for a bespoke keyboard design service ;)
I've there's an end to layout editing, I haven't found it yet. The only thing holding me back is what a pain it is to flash firmware on a Windows machine. I brought a Raspberry Pi into work for that purpose, because my work system is locked down -- it thinks dev software is malware.
As for caps, I've been lusting after Carbon since I first saw it. I have the Tai Hao knockoff set on order, but rumor has it Signature Plastics will be doing another production run, supposedly going up for pre-order this summer. If at all possible, that's what this board will be wearing :).
I am a mini keeb addict. All started from an Infinity, now heading to planck, and probably JD45. Wanted to get a minivan but recently the price roared ;/
P.s. Go Linux lul