Ok so dumb question since this will be my first hotswappable, when buying different switches. I saw that there are 2 kinds, plate and pcb mount, which ones do I need?
bbnnit depends on what the PCB is designed to use.
I would presume that this will be PCB mount as they are more stable than plate mount and are typically used in custom boards. However, even if the PCB does not have the holes to accomodate the extra legs that PCB mount switches have, you can clip them off with flush cutters and they will then be the same as plate mount switches.
bbnnAlso, you have plenty of time. Current delivery estimate is mid-February. So three months at a minimum. Don't be surprised if it ends up being more like 5 months.
bbnnNo 5 pins come with the extra holes for switches that have 3 Plastic legs won’t have to clip ... I just had to clip my gateron ink blacks for my dropalt because it’s 2 pin
Hcgamer25I'm sure your right, I just am not in the know. This is only my second board and I've never soldered or hot swapped a switch. Just saw that picture of the socket.
bbnnYes bbnn. Get PCB mount switches. If the PCB has the holes for the extra plastic legs that PCB mount switches have, they will help ensure your switches are both secure and properly aligned.
It looks like everyone is guessing as to what the PCB supports, but usually custom PCBs will support PCB mount switches and worst case, you snip the extra legs off (v easy)
bbnnFor the purpose of this discussion, please ignore the image I posted of the Kailh hotswap socket with 2 holes. That socket will be mounted on the underside of the PCB and will accept 2 pins without interfering with any others your switch may have. In other words, the hotswap socket itself is compatible with both 3-pin and 5-pin switches. But that doesn't really answer your question.
You should only be concerned with the number of holes on the PCB (not the sockets), which will be either 3 or 5. This leaves us with two possible scenarios:
Scenario A: The PCB has 5 holes. Both 3-pin (plate-mount) switches and 5-pin (PCB-mount) switches will fit. The extra two pins on 5-pin switches can add stability, but I don't know whether that will really help since this keyboard has a steel plate for stability. The switches can rely on the steel plate for stability and only need to connect to the PCB (or technically, the sockets attached to it) for their electrical function.
Scenario B: The PCB has 3 holes. Only 3-pin (plate-mount) switches will fit. The extra two pins on 5-pin (PCB-mount) switches will interfere with the PCB because they won't have holes to go through. As others have mentioned, this can easily be remedied by cutting off the two extra "pins", which are just plastic nubs.
bbnnHulk Smash! :-)
Have you tested those? Or are you just used to heavy switches and want to try those out?
I bought a key tester just for Cherry MX's but now I want to test "all the switches"
PobXyes but just on the cherry switch testers. its also important to note that the 78g zelios are bottom out force while the cherry greens are 80g actuation? i think. so it still might be lighter than the greens. currently using 62g ergo clears, but i want something heavier for long typing sessions
bbnnThis is a plate mount keyboard so you'll want plate mount switches....but you can use PCB mount switches...it's just a tedious process to cut off two plastic legs off of each switch. So might as well just use plate mount. They already come with switches though. Most other kinds come in plate mount too unless you're using like zealios or zilents or something
KiefofpoliceAlmost every custom keyboard PCB has holes for PCB mount switches. The fact that this uses a plate doesn't mean you should buy plate mount switches. The extra legs on PCB mount switches actually help with switch alignment and stability
linnesI realize what PCB mount switches are, but I also have only seen that this board only accepts plate mount stabs and all of the pics and info of them building it on the forums don't look like they have 5 holes.