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Answering my own questions: Fn+Insert turned the keyboard on and let me find it in my OS X Bluetooth menu (you can't use "Setup Bluetooth keyboard..." and OS X can't set this up as a normal keyboard).
Fn+Left Control let me swap CapsLock and Control, and I guess I will use Karabiner to swap Option and Command (and then also use System Preferences to swap them a second time, so my built-in keyboard's Option and Command keep working as expected).
I still want an answer to the question of: how can I tell whether the keyboard is charged up or not?
Hey Andrew how is the keyboard working out? Can't seem to find many OS X users here. Did the keyswapping work out? Also does the keyboard have any issues pairing automatically to the Mac after sleep or shutdown? It'd be a pain if I have to use the MacBook keyboard and go to Bluetooth options and pair it every time I reboot the computer.
The keyboard is working out pretty well with OS X. I had to do the hacks mentioned by other users (swap Option and Command in OS X, then use Karabiner to re-swap Option and Command; use Seil to map Caps Lock to Control), but the keyboard has been working pretty well for me since. It's been flawless with my 2015 12" MacBook at home, and pretty good with my 2015 13" MacBook Pro at work. At home, my MacBook wakes fine from sleep with a single tap—at work, I sometimes have to tap keys a few times (my work configuration is laptop with lid closed, plugged into external monitor, maybe that makes a difference).
I ordered some sweet custom keycaps from WASD Keyboards to get Mac friendly keys; you can find details here: https://github.com/andrewgho/vb87m_keycaps