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Product Description
From the YChuan workshop comes a fully featured kit ideal for anyone looking to build a mid-sized YC96 (96-key) keyboard. At the core of this kit is a per-key RGB PCB with a 32-bit MCU that’s fully programmable and connectible via Bluetooth or USB-C Read More
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So I actually have this kit. So first off, the USB port is place in a horrible place, where you can barely fit the USB c in and out, as to where it has to be bent which is fine if you never unplug it, but if you want to use the wireless functionality then that defeats the whole purpose. I had to dremel the hole to be wider. And forget about using the routing channels, custom cables won't fit and they're at such a tight bend, so close to the port that no standard cable would make it. Thirdly, the plate ping is pretty substantial. Now, I have box navies in mine, and that may contribute, but the ping is LOUD and resonant. I put two layers of shelf liner in the case and had the keyboard flat on my desk mat and that still wouldn't help. Because of the USB placement and the way the plate is secured onto the case, you can't replace the plate or the case either. Now, this is the cheapest 96% kit you can get and the rgb is decent enough (aside from the white which looks more bluish pink?) so that and the rare form factor is nice. After the dremeling and using headphones when typing it's a decent experience. Just keep all that stuff in mind.
tl;dr board has problems with cable routing and software. a lot of bang for buck makes the board worth it to me. final cost is cheaper on kprepublic or aliexpress to ship to midwest USA.
i also have this keeb! to chime in on my experience, the software is horrible. you can't change the placement of fn or printscreen, but otherwise you can save 1 profile to the board. you can't change anything in the fn layer.
the cable routing is horrible. Lastbluesun has a great description in his comment.
it has slow bluetooth switching; it takes about 5 sec to swap to another of the 3 profiles. also, you can use bluetooth while the device is plugged in, but you need to physically flip the power switch on the bottom to get the wired to connection to work again. basically, you can switch from wired to bluetooth, but cannot switch back to wired. i was wrong, yes you can toggle back and forth between wired/wireless WITHOUT flipping the power switch.
i have not noticed any board ping, but i'm using over-lubed gateron reds. i also put down 2 layers of shelf liner and heavily lubed the stabs.
though there are a lot of bads, i still love this board. the good is you get a LOT of boxes checked for what you pay for: fairly sturdy board, 96%, rgb, bluetooth, hotswap, usbC, and somewhat programmable. i paid $83 from aliexpress and had gateron red switches included. i literally was not able to find another board with this combo of features- so for me, it's a win. **fairly important point to note, after shipping and taxes, drop charges $67. aliexpress or kprepublic have free shipping to midwest USA, making it a wee bit cheaper ~$65 for the same kit** not to mention you can get switches bundled too if that's your jam
other notes that aren't horrible, but might be annoying: non-standard keys are the 1.75u right shift; and the 1u alt, ctrl, fn, and numpad0. the right arrow encroaching on numpad0 drives me crazy. you can (mostly) pick what keys you want bound for the row above numpad, but if your keycaps have different heights by row (oem and cherry, in contrast to dsa) you might have a funky looking key. the delete key is a good example of this; it won't match the rest of the F-keys row. i ended up using a blank key to match row height. you can program macros, but like i said before, some keys can't be changed (printscreen and fn) and the fn layer can't be adjusted at all. there are a lot of nice presets for rgb that are pretty.
edit: a word
dvorcolLooked nice till I saw the odd gap in the arrow keys. This is why 1800 happens. Either no gap or full break out. Not this one key in the wrong place thing.
kmishrano this is a hot-swap board so no need to solder, to finish the board u will need switches and keycaps and then you will have all the parts needed for a custom keyboard.