How do I configure the Drop Alt keyboard to work with MacOS? The configurator doesn't seem to give me the options I need.

Hi Everyone, I just bought my first mechanical keyboard (Wooting 80HE) and ordered the Geon Raws HE after watching a few YouTube videos—they sounded great. However, on my keyboard, they sound clacky as hell, and I actually prefer the Lekker 60 V2! They’re much quieter and sound better (in my opinion). Right now, I’m using the PCR case because my Zinc case won’t arrive for another month (mid-March). Do you think that’s why the Geon Raws HE sound so off? I’m considering getting the Jades Pro, but I don’t want to waste more money on switches if it’s not necessary. Should I wait for the Zinc case and then decide? What would you do or recommend for someone who prefers thocky or silent keyboards? I also have a question about keycaps. I’m struggling with typing—I’m used to working all day on an MX Keys S, but with the Wooting keyboard, I keep pressing multiple keys at once. Adjusting has been tough. Can you recommend a keycap profile that might help? Would DSA work, or do you have other...

Hi guys! I have been using a common 100% membrane keyboard for quite some time and now want to try a mechanical one. So I am looking for a reliable normal profile 75%/TKL keyboard, wired, RGB is ok but not required, with the ability to swap keycaps/switches in feature in case I want to try new ones, on a budget of around 100$, 150$ max. The main use will be coding and gaming. I like the smooth (non-bright) colors like electro-blue or creamy. Linear or tactile switches are okay, I believe. Not sure about about choosing case materials, plate, and mounting. If you have any articles about picking these, it would be appreciated. Thanks!

As per the title, i want to mod my ctrl with low profile switches and caps. Can anyone clarify if this board is compatible with them?

The switch receptacle, the part on the back of the PCB that the switch plugs into, came off the back of my Sense 75 PCB. Can it be reattached? Does it need to be glued or soldered or is the PCB and thus the entire keyboard useless? Thank you for any advice or answers

I have the Lord of the Rings Rohan (Aldburg edition) keyboard. Recently the G, H, and T keys have become unreliable. The mostly work but every now and again they won't register the keystroke. The H key especially. Does anyone know of any potential causes (and a fix) I should be looking for? Thx, R

Hi Everyone, I just bought my first mechanical keyboard (Wooting 80HE) and ordered the Geon Raws HE after watching a few YouTube videos—they sounded great. However, on my keyboard, they sound clacky as hell, and I actually prefer the Lekker 60 V2! They’re much quieter and sound better (in my opinion). Right now, I’m using the PCR case because my Zinc case won’t arrive for another month (mid-March). Do you think that’s why the Geon Raws HE sound so off? I’m considering getting the Jades Pro, but I don’t want to waste more money on switches if it’s not necessary. Should I wait for the Zinc case and then decide? What would you do or recommend for someone who prefers thocky or silent keyboards? I also have a question about keycaps. I’m struggling with typing—I’m used to working all day on an MX Keys S, but with the Wooting keyboard, I keep pressing multiple keys at once. Adjusting has been tough. Can you recommend a keycap profile that might help? Would DSA work, or do you have other...

Pink accents from decorations kit on Gunmetal colorway. Typeplus x YIKB stabilizers Gateron G Pro 3.0 Silver switches

Hi guys! I have been using a common 100% membrane keyboard for quite some time and now want to try a mechanical one. So I am looking for a reliable normal profile 75%/TKL keyboard, wired, RGB is ok but not required, with the ability to swap keycaps/switches in feature in case I want to try new ones, on a budget of around 100$, 150$ max. The main use will be coding and gaming. I like the smooth (non-bright) colors like electro-blue or creamy. Linear or tactile switches are okay, I believe. Not sure about about choosing case materials, plate, and mounting. If you have any articles about picking these, it would be appreciated. Thanks!

As per the title, i want to mod my ctrl with low profile switches and caps. Can anyone clarify if this board is compatible with them?

I feel the need... the need... for... DCS Sleeper on every single board that comes through my desk! Added the good ol' DCS BAE from Sneakbox as well