There Are Pandas, and Then There Are Pandas.
And this isn't either of them! The Pandas we're talking about here, are watches, not bears. And what got me thinking about them (again) was a link posted this morning by @cm.rook who pointed a few of us to the very attractive (and not terribly priced) Yema "Rallygraph" Panda which, in it's most traditional arrangement, looks like the one on the left, but can also be had in the version on the right: The model on the left is a true Panda, while the model on the right is called a reverse Panda. The reason for that distinction is clear--Panda bears, only come in the first arrangement. Now at this point, everyone should be thinking about the most well-know Panda, The Rolex Panda, which is actually a Daytona, and among Rolex Daytonas, the most famous of which is the Paul Newman Daytona, which was famous first, because it was Paul's, and second because it sold at auction for $17.8 million (US Dollars). The story of that auction is well-known so I'll only...
Nov 8, 2019
If you can afford it, have a service tech in a camera shop give the camera a once-over and clean-oil the mechanical parts. I once bought a vintage 1970's Minolta XD-11 from a sheriff's auction and did just that for my own reassurance. Did not regret that, even though all was working except for the self-timer clockworks (left that alone).
So you have a Nikon F-mount and really most full-frame F-mount lenses in history can be used with this body (I believe, some of the early AI type lenses have limitations). Give strong consideration for a Nikon 50mm prime, likely the f1.8 version for under $100 on the used market. Can get new-in-box for $131 or so on Amazon. 50mm lens is a "normal" focal length and roughly gives a field of view equal to what your eyes see. This is many people's starting point in photography. Many great photographers in history made their mark with that focal length. The f1.8 aperture of the lens will allow you to work inside and out without a flash assist in daytime. You can also open up effectively to blur background when you are trying to isolate a subject in the foreground. Often done for portraits.
When the time comes for a 2nd lens, look for a good zoom lens that can cover about 24mm to 28mm on the wide end and at least 75mm or longer on the telephoto end. You will notice that affordable lenses of that type have a minimum f-stop around 4.5 or more. It is a trade-off, but the extra versatility of the zoom usually makes up for that.
Drawbacks for your N60 as I read them on Wikipedia is the lack of a depth-of-field preview, and lack of remote shutter release. Those are serious omissions on a film camera. It really takes away the option of using a tripod to steady the camera for long-exposures. Nobody (pros included) can push the shutter release on the camera body light enough to not cause shake. Without the depth-of-field preview, you will basically be stuck doing math to figure out if your subject is fully in the focal plane if you are trying to blur the background. Even those basic Pentax SLRs I used in high school had the DOF preview button so you can see in the viewfinder how the image will focus on the film.
Above all, have fun as you learn. I actually got poor grades in my class, but I never really lost my interest. It was many years later as an adult that I could finally afford better equipment and improve my craft. I think you have a better starting point.