How to Shorten Your Massdrop x Klymit Sleeping Pad
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It is fairly easy to cut a sleeping pad to your desired length. Shortening your pad gives you a lighter, more packable item that will be faster to inflate and take up less space in your shelter (especially useful in tents that taper towards the foot area). I know a substantial number of members are going to do this to their Long Massdrop x Klymit Utralight V, so they can have a wide short pad. 
Here are the super simple instructions for shortening your sleeping pad
1) Decide and mark the desired length of pad
2) Cut with scissors
3) Clear insulation inside away from the edge
4) Seal the edge with a hot iron
I've checked with the experts and as far as I could find, this method works with all sleeping pads - Thermarest, Exped, Nemo, Big Agnes, Sea to Summit and so on. Warning: cutting down your pad most likely voids your warranty from any manufacturer. 
Now with greater details and a few basic photos, here is how you can cut down your insulated sleeping pad.
1) MEASURE
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Measure the sleeping pad while it is inflated to determine where you want to cut it. Mark it with tape or a marker. If in doubt, don't cut off as much as you think you want - you can always come back and cut it a second time, but you can't make it longer once it's cut short. Conveniently, the baffles on the Regular Klymit pad are 4" (10 cm) apart, so this makes for easy, natural intervals.
2) CUT. IT. OUT.
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Clean the cutting area and cut with decent scissors. For the Klymit pads with V chambers, I prefer to cut along the existing baffles for aesthetics as well as ease of removing the insulation. This makes step 3 easier. 
3) REMOVE INSULATION
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Clear the inside insulation away from the edge of the pad. I think 1/2" (1.3cm) will suffice. I was able to pull it clear using my fingers, but tweezers or needle nose pliers would probably help. An exacto hobby knife could be used to cut near the seams, but I'd be concerned about cutting through the fabric as well. Clean any dirt away from the cut edge before you seal it.
4) SEAL THE EDGE
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Set the iron on its hottest setting and press firmly and slowly along the edge to seal it. I did this a couple of times on each edge, just to make sure, but theoretically one time should be enough. Let it cool, blow it up, and test for leaks. That's it.
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By cutting off the corners and one baffle, I was able to knock down the weight of my pad to 14.0 oz (398 g) for a length of 68" (173 cm). Each additional V chamber removed should reduce the weight by about 0.8 oz (23 g) and length by 4" (10 cm) more. This is for the original Massdrop x Klymit Static V Ultralight, which normally is about 0.5 oz (14 g) lighter than the just released Massdrop x Klymit Ultralight V pad (due to the addition of the flat valves and non-slip treatment).
Again, cutting down your pad likely voids your warranty. To some in the Ultralight Community, the tradeoff is worth it. I am not advocating that you cut your pad. That being said, I personally felt a lot more comfortable cutting my $60 Klymit pad rather than my $160 NeoAir.

Note that if you have an uninsulated pad, you can skip Step 3. John Abela illustrates this in his quick video below. He chose to cut straight across the pad, which is another option and slightly easier to do on pads without insulation to remove.
Have you tried shortening your pad? Share you pictures and results below! As always, I welcome your questions.
thumb_upLaw216, JIN HYEONG LEE, and 51 others
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Rachelm.medina
2
Aug 6, 2020
Success! I chose to keep the more “normal” shape and I used the original bottom to trace out the new cut line. I’ve now done this successfully to two different pads, this Klymit one and a Sea to Summit.
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batumancung
33
Jan 1, 2020
I just did this with the Ultralight V because a repair patch failed. (The original hole was caused by a small child swinging a four-foot straightedge.) Thankfully, the hole was below the knees. By my estimation - ask me after the pad has stayed inflated all night - you don't need to remove the insulation where you iron. After all, the manufacturer fused/ironed right through all the interior layers. Granted, the layer of plastic membrane that accompanies the insulation will melt and squeeze out a little, so I did iron over a piece of newspaper. I cut it off in a reversed V, just beyond straight, because the sides pull forward as it inflates. It is now more or less straight.
(Edited)
zeus999
1
Oct 9, 2019
Thank You
Melbournewoman
33
Sep 15, 2018
I have a very, very old Exped down mat. One valve doesn't seem to lock properly anymore and I was thinking about cutting it out and trying to seal the mat up with an iron. Do you think this will work?
Aquadoe
1
Feb 24, 2018
This works for a Nemo Tensor insulated pad as well! I trimmed my regular/wide pad down into a short/wide pad. Easier for me to sleep on my side!
rflint
6
Dec 3, 2017
unbelievable easy and effective. I was able to trim 22 1/2 inches and 3.25 oz from my pad. If you pay close attention to the seams its a very small area you have to reseal .
thanks for the tip
rflint
6
Dec 4, 2017
I did follow the seam so that there was the smallest area to reseal. But I wouldn't hesitate to square it off if I thought it worth it
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DannyMilks
4541
Feb 12, 2018
Looks great!
If you want to watch my full length video of shortening the pad, here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svk1xD6wc3s
Stooparabola
14
Jul 21, 2017
Can you do one on how to extend it lol im a giant over 6'5"
Stooparabola
14
Jul 21, 2017
I am currently using the insulated static v from klymit and would love to extend jt to fit my feet its almost 7 inches to small id say....like i said i guess im a giant
batumancung
33
Jan 1, 2020
I haven't thrown mine away yet. You'd have to seal inner to inner and have a flap sticking out all around. I know it's an old post, but if you want it, text 724 4770 in the Saint Paul MN area code.
ZZ-ZIGMAN
0
Jul 14, 2017
Excellent option, Thx!
DannyMilks
4541
Jul 14, 2017
Happy to share.
I wish I could find a pad the really worked in my hammock setup. Its just hard to get the sort of side ways diagonal position that is comfy to sleep in when I use a pad.
Go with the previously mentioned hammock gear UQ... the econ line is truly quite reasonable and they occasionally do holiday sales. I have two from them and they are heads/tails better than a pad (and I have a double layer hammock that helps the pad stay in place). It's certainly not a cheaper option but pads work significantly better with bridge style hammocks (I own both a Warbonnet Ridge Runner and a Blackbird)
Edited to say I have both a full length zero degree from the Econ line and a 30 degree 3/4 from the regular line. If you aren't counting grams the regular line of Incubator/Phoenix is not worth the upcharge IMO
Skoshi
8
May 30, 2018
That is why most people opt for an underquilt instead of a air mattress in an hammock.
If you do use a pad it's recommended to get a dual layer Hexon 1.0 hammock so that you can insert the pad between the layers... this helps lock it in place better.
Maybe you already know this... but if you didn't... that's the tip.
Also if you don't already have it research "SRL" or "Structural Ridgeline" it makes doing the diagonal lay easier... basically you take a whoopie sling go from gathered end to gathered end and adjust it to get the sag you want... so if you already have whoopie slings you have one to each tree and one across between them.
Last.. you got this pad.. same company. https://www.klymit.com/hammock-v-sleeping-pad.html
it's got extra nubs out there for when you lay diagonal.
have fun.
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