Sep 27, 2017644 views

Knife Sharpening

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could recommend me either a sharpening kit or stone(s) for sharpening some of the tougher steels like S30V, 20CV etc. I already have a lansky deluxe 5 stone kit but would like to go a little higher in grits, aswell as purchase a strop as I am currently using a leather belt as a makeshift one. Cheers in advance.

I mostly use the Spyderco bench stones, medium to ultra fine, followed by stropping with compound or diamond spray.
I used Japanese waterstones for a while, but they get a bit tedious - they need to be flattened constantly and will usually crack if not permanently kept in water.
A good leather strop is easy to make; strip of vegetable tanned leather, stropping compound, adhesive, and a flat piece of wood. The last two are even optional.
The key is using some form of a stropping compound; bare leather such as when people use their belts is far too slow for any practical use.
I am new to knives and sharpening also. I just bought the KME. I love it. The basic kit gets you started with great results. Then you can add either films or emulsions and a strop to polish any blade steel. I can now handle s110v, zdp189, s30v, and s35vn with no trouble at all. Very easy to learn with great YouTube videos from KME themselves. Really good solid system. I like the knife being clamped into position. The Edge pro leaves too much room for error.
I would go with a KME. The basic kit now comes with the gold series diamond stones which are very good stones. I have an S30V blade and my 20CV mini grip and these stones work great on both. Plus there are plenty of strops with emulsions, lapping films, Arkansas stones, etc for the KME to get a nice mirror polish if you want to go f or that. I just got the spyderco ultra fine stone for the KME made by gritomatic.
I picked up the Accusharp set, and I'm a little underwhelmed with it's performance on S90V. I'm torn between buying a KME set or an authentic Edge Pro. Suggestions?
while I dont have experience with the KME nor Edge Pro, I found my lansky to be lacking when it came to nicer steels, I picked up a DMT aligner stone holder and the 600 grit cuts really fast, you can then pick up a 1200 or 8000, going from the 1k on my lansky to the 8k dmt i noticed large scratches, this is from the stone having larger diamonds mixed with the small.
I use a diamond sharpening "stone" for nicks and chips.
If it needs sharpening, the I only use a ceramic "steel" and some stropping paste on leather, You don't need anything else to touch up a blade as for sharpening goes.
I use an Edge Pro Apex, they have stones up to 1000 and polish tapes up to 6000. Great product for a very fair price
I am James Sharpening Service been doing this since 1991 anything that I can help you with my number is 601-808-2443 have a blessed one .
Wicked Edge.
There was a recent discussion on this topic on Facebook. I have the same system as you but am still in the learning phase. Lansky users highly recommend getting the diamond stones. They say that doing the super steels is much easier using those. Hope this helps.
I've used DMT kit with a guided angle on 20CV and Sharpmaker to touch up, but I prefer the ViperSharp (single arm, good value) or WickedEdge (double-arm, pricey) with a fixed-angle. I use RH Preyda Arkansas stones for my kitchen knives, but I'm getting a set of Japanese water stones soon to try and learn those and be able to get some grits up to 4000-6000.
I have do have a lansky guided system but I really want to go a little higher than 1000 grit so I looking for individual or small sets of stones. I will definitely look into the RH Preyda stones. Hopefully there's a drop for some nice stones coming up ;). cheers for the input.
DMT bench "stones". Any grit you want. (I use medium / fine).
are they good? how do they hold up? Theres not too many reviews out there on them.
Been using these three over 20 years... barely signs of wear on any of them. But I don't abuse the edge and touch them up as soon as they start to "drag":
Keep this one in my backpack:
And this one slicks up serrated edges (don't have too many) really quickly:
Again, I don't abuse any of my blades by using them as a pry bar, a screwdriver, or decal scraper. Use of the flat bench stones assume that you can hold a constant angle as you pull the blade across the stone's surface.... it takes a little practice.
If you have a lansky 5 stone kit then I think you're actually good to go as far as honing is concerned. I have a Spyderco Sharpmaker with medium/fine stones, and that works fine for my pocketknives.
As for strops, I use this paddle strop from Amazon:
It works great on all my blades that don't have exotic steels (and some that do).
For my S110V blades, I got this "strop", which is really just a nice piece of leather: ...along with DMT 1 micron diamond paste:
This is sufficient to get my S110V blade bevels shiny and hair-shaving sharp. You could get another strop and go to 0.5 micron paste, but in my opinion it isn't necessary.
I went budget with my sharpening setup. I have a knockoff edge pro, from Amazon. I know, I know. I do feel bad as an Oregonian buying a knockoff Oregon product. It was $25 ish bucks. Then grab some gritomatic stones, and a higher end shapton or chosera for shining. My whole setup is around $100 and does a damn fine job.
Stones are gritomatic 120, 400, 600, 1000, and a shapton 5000 grit which was the most expensive part.
At some point I should upgrade the sharpener, but it works.
I just bought a Hapstone. Combined with Naniwa Chosera stones, it does a really nice job on my Shun kitchen knives and really did a really great job on my Spyderco Maxamet Manix pocket folder. I actually upgraded from two different Lansky kits.
Them stones sound expensive!
I recently bought the KME system with the full kits, and it's awesome. Sharpens M390 like nothing, and the operation of the system is so smooth and simple that it's actually kind of fun.