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Mr.Nosely
8
Feb 20, 2020
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That is NOT patina, that is just BEYOND hideous!… It is forged from 1045 high carbon TOOL steel to the point of such that it should NOT develop rust NOR develop a FAKE patina. The only thing you did is ruin the looks of a once great looking piece of engineering…. Tasteless modification. YUCK!
(Edited)
Feb 20, 2020
MadStork
19
Feb 20, 2020
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Mr.NoselyIf it shouldn't have developed a patina, it wouldn't have. It did, which means it would also would have rusted without some care. There are multiple examples of these tools acquiring surface rust. This is a simple solution (literally table top acetic acid). You may not like the aesthetic, you may not agree with forcing a patina instead of letting one develop, you may believe that high carbon tools should be continuously maintained to keep their original appearance but don't deny this is a effective preventative measure against rust.
(Edited)
Feb 20, 2020
reswright
3850
Feb 22, 2020
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Mr.NoselyYou..... might be mistaken about the properties of 1045 steel. And possibly about the general properties of high carbon steel, and the definition of 'tool steel'. Maybe other things too. High carbon steels aren't stainless as a rule, but that's kind of unimportant to this discussion because 1045 is not a high carbon steel. It's 0.5% carbon by weight, which means it's a medium carbon steel. It corrodes over time at normal humidity and temperature, it rusts and it definitely does develop patina. And for what it's worth 'tool steel' isn't actually a metallurgic category of steels so much as it's the name given to any kind of high hardness steel that's suitable to be made into dies, molds, and other manufacturing machinery. Steels that don't rust or develop patina aren't high carbon steels or medium carbon steels or tool steels, they're what we call 'stainless' steels, and as a rule they need to be at least 15% chromium. Steels that have less than 15% chromium are sometimes called semistainless steels. Just closing the circle here: 1045 is neither stainless nor semistainless as it has a Cr % of 0.0.
Feb 22, 2020
reswright
3850
Feb 22, 2020
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MadStorkNever done this. Walk me through what you did. I can get as far as 'soak the breacher bar in apple cider vinegar' on my own, but would like specifics. :)
Feb 22, 2020
MadStork
19
Feb 22, 2020
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reswrightI filled a tupperware container with enough vinegar to completely immerse the bars. I then wrapped the bars in paper towels so I'd get an even finish. Put the lid on so you and everyone you live with don't have to smell it. Keep immersed until you get the desired level of darkness and wipe clean. I believe mine were about 12-16 hours at room temperature. With the larger bar I decided to add a pattern with mustard. With that I dropped mustard globules on either side of the bar and let it sit for a couple of hours, wiped off the bar, and repeated two more times.
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(Edited)
Feb 22, 2020
MechEng
345
Mar 29, 2021
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MadStorkI did 14hrs exactly the same, hit is with cold water afterwards and a paper towel wipe, all the dark black came mostly right off. Did a soap and alcohol clean with gloves before wrapping in PT, what gives? Was i not suppose to wipe? Hot water, longer duration?
Mar 29, 2021
MadStork
19
Mar 29, 2021
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MechEngAfter removing it from the vinegar, all I did was dry the bars on paper towels (not wiping) & lightly oil the bars afterward.
Mar 29, 2021
MechEng
345
Mar 29, 2021
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MadStorkCleaned it back up with some orbital sanding, brush grinder and a belt sander. Polished prybar now, yea 14 hrs, cold water post, cleaned prior, post paper towel wiping, made it look like the first photo. I used nitrile gloves, dish soap, isopropyl, and paper towel method with Heinz apple cider vinegar. When I first pulled it, it looked like yours, but after cold water and wiping it came out like below.
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Mar 29, 2021
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