Tuya Knives — we need a drop for them https://warrenedcblades.godaddysites.com/
https://warrenedcblades.godaddysites.com/ Great colors , Ceramic bearings ,titanum , great steel , super smooth,great size selection,$50 to 180ish. CHECK THEM OUT THE ARE ABOVE AND BEYOND FOR A GREAT PRICE RANGE ....https://warrenedcblades.godaddysites.com/
I got a mio nix castor in my box don't need a mouse that good any body want to trade something they don't want out of there box? Any thing but nail clippers. Pens, flashlight, knives any thing maybe that goofy stand some of you got.
Hey Massdrop community,
My name is Shan , with Tepe Designs. I wanted to test the water and see if the community would like to see my design offered via Massdrop. Therefore, I need your help so that the team here can make a sound decision on whether or not to consider this a viable offering. I am working on getting first production done now via Kickstarter, however, I would like to see the Hornet offered to a much larger following. The knife is being made by HE Knives in Guangdong province, (same place as Kizer, WE and Reate etc..). They have 20+ yrs experience and have worked on projects for other manufactures like Kershaw and Buck. Rest assured, they do excellent work and I wouldn't have spent the last 18 months preparing this with them for a poorly made product.
Ultimately, I like to offer up one or more versions of the Hornet as follows:
1. D2 steel / black or orange G-10 handles
2. N690 steel / full Ti handles
I leave it to you all, the Massdrop community, to decide if...
~$50 for price I'm looking for a better(smaller) EDC light that I can more easily bring to work when my pockets are pretty full as is. For reference I have an Eagletac D25LC2 clicky, I love a lot about it, the moonlight "secret" low mode is great to start at in low light, and the medium level is just right in my opinion. One of the biggest boons for it is the pocket clip, and size...which is great for an 18650 light but not quite small enough for me most of the time.
Anyways, if there's one must beyond it being small around 18350/cr123 battery size, it's that it have a neutral white LED, not a fan of the cool white...also a deep carry pocket clip as I don't like my eagtac light's tail sticking out. As I'd be using this at work(IT crawling under desks, etc.) max throw isn't the absolute most important thing, but I would like it to be decent.
Beyond that here's a few preferences that boost value to me:
-A nice really low "moonlight mode" ~1 lumen or less and if possible to start...
You can't buy it in stores but you can make your own.
1) Get 1 Skyline with G-10 and 1 set of copper scales for it. These are from Flytanium. The Skyline's the one I bought from Drop.
2) Break it down. The pivot is T8 and the fasteners on the clip and spine are T6.
Don't miss the fact that two fastener bolts are embedded in the thin G10 scale that you need to pop out and then set into the thin copper scale, so the long T6 fasteners running through the spine and backspacer have some steel threads to bite into on the other side. Be aware that these can be tricky to pop out. They're easier to 'rip' out by taking a pair of needlenose pliers and ripping away nearby G10 which of course ruins the old scale, but it won't be usable without the bolts anyway.
Aside from that it's a simple breakdown that I believe I've documented elsewhere on this site already: you're just disconnecting Torx fasteners and the pivot and it all pops apart after that. Here it is all broken...
This is something I got into a while ago because I kinda like the idea of personalizing my knives and I like how certain colors look in the light. It's turned into a hobby. I don't know that there's a deeper meaning to it than that - I try to do things I like :)
There's lots of resources available if you want to learn about dyeing things online, and considerably fewer out there about dyeing knife scales. There's walkthroughs for doing this on the stove, and you can try that if you want. Some of the methods I have seen are... well, dangerous, and not in a good way. Others work but have little room for error. so I ended up experimenting and drawing on background information a bit to come up with a process to do it. I use a microwave! In a lot of ways, it's much easier, and you aren't staining up a metal cookpot, and especially once you get used to it, it's a lot easier to get just the effect you want, no darker or lighter.
The first and arguably most important step is the...
wherein I braze a rat.
Specifically a RAT 1 in D2 and G-10 from Ontario Knives. The RAT is Ontario's best known collaboration with Randall's Adventure and Training (hence the RAT name), an outfit better known for their association with ESEE and for teaching people how to evade capture and survive in the jungle. The RAT Model 1 (and its slightly smaller brother the RAT Model 2) are fairly well known, very good budget knives. Fast flip, good ergos including a bit of thumb ramp, strong liner lock. No wiggle, no nonsense. The standard models come with AUS-8 -- with a good heat treat AUS 8 can be ok steel, but I wanted to go a little better for the Copper Rat. So I grabbed a D2 version with some light colored scales that I might customize later for some other project (light scales are a lot more interesting to dye.)
So I have my threadlocker, my Torx T6 and T8, some lanyard stuff, and a pair of aftermarket copper scales from Flytanium. And a nearby pair of needlenose...
Before During and After: Spyderco Endura Breakdown and Rebuild
Enduring Renewal.... or, for those of you who never played the Ice Age MTG set, wherein I take the Endura I got from Drop and add some aftermarket goodness to it.
Here it is as it came to me:
This Endura was made in Seki City. VG-10, blue fiberglass handle, $90-100 retail. The Endura's claim to fame is that it, like the Delica and the Endela in-betweener, have aggressive back locks but can be easily flipped open one handed. That and the standard Spyderco build quality has proven a strong combo -- it get a lot of buyers. Fidgeters may prefer a flipper or an axis type lock or a compression lock, but there are a whole lot of people who feel like the back lock is the only one they trust. So it's one of Spyderco's budget knives but toward the top end of their budget tier.
To take one apart, you need a T6 Torx wrench and a T8 Torx wrench. The pivot takes T8, everything else is T6. Sets of Torx wrenches, drivers, bits, whichever you prefer, are easy to find online -- and...