Hey everybody! Thank you for purchasing your Stack Overflow The Key Macropad. We hope you’re enjoying it so far. If you’ve landed here, you probably want to take full advantage of the keyboard’s custom configuration so you’ve come to the right place. What Does The Key Come With? Out of the box, The Key comes built in with three keys that act as the “ctrl”, “c”, and “v” keys. It also includes a USB-C to USB-A cable to connect to your computer. Users that only have USB-C ports would need to provide their own USB-A to USB-C adapter. How do I configure The Key? Creating a New Custom Configuration The Key can be reconfigured and remapped so that each key press results in a different character, or set of characters. Users commonly find it helpful to remap these to media keys (Play, Stop, Next Track), utility keys (volume up/down) or application shortcuts (launch Chrome). To get under the hood and start reprogramming your The Key: 1. Go to Keyboard Firmware Builder 2...
How much thought have u put into your primary input device?Ever considered how much better your interface with your computer might be?In this article, we dive into the possibilities of mechanical keyboards . The different layouts , switch types and even keycap material. Strap yourself in this will be a deep dive!
Hey guys, i would like to get some help to choose best components for My first build mechanical keyboard. I am living with my girlfriend and she cant handle the sound of keyboards so i need a silent One bit Still confortible to play with. Criterier: 80 - 85 % keyboard Silent as possible ( Chery mix red silent) i think is Good? Need vibration matt O-ring A nice keyboard frame Buttons Have u guys any suggestion for My build? It is an jungel in this browser and some help is needed. What DO i need to buy to get a full set?
Back in 2003, Apple released the Apple Wireless Keyboard: (Not to be confused with later keyboards of the same name that look like laptop keyboards.) The keyboard still works with an ancient MacBook Pro, but it won't pair with anything from the 2010s. That's too bad, because I think it looks pretty nice. So I decided to see if I could bring its essence into the 2020s by transplanting the keycaps to my Drop CTRL keyboard. Here on the left is a regular MX style keycap, and to the right one from the AWK2003. Not so different. Until we turn them over: However, the AWK2003 keycap will fit on a Cherry MX style switch, especially a Kailh box switch: But the fit is too loose. However, we can fix that with some teflon tape. Three layers seems to work well: And there it is: the Drop CTRL keyboard with 2003 Apple Wireless Keyboard keycaps: The keycap profile is a bit different, especially on the bottom row, as you...
I'm trying to map Drop Shift LED to the correct bit masks in `led_instructions`. However, I'm getting a mismatch in the underglow LED count when compared to drop's web configurator In configurator I've counted: 4 edges LEDs 21 tops LEDs 8 right LEDs 23 bottom LEDs 8 left LEDs However in my tests using QMK (based of default_md keymap), I was able to map only 22 bottom LEDs (instead of 23) starting from right to left at id4/bit 6 until id4/bit 28. When I configure id4/bit 29 is activates the bottom left edge LED. What's id the correct underglow LED distribution? Is there any documentation with the correct LEDs mapping? It's also worth notting that the comments in https://github.com/Massdrop/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/massdrop/shift/keymaps/default_md/keymap.c#L288-L303 are unreliable. Don't appear to have been copied from another keyboard, as dropshift uses until id5, and underglow starts at id3 instead of id2.
I acquired a Massdrop ALT for free and knew upon connecting it that it would not show any signs of life. I had two other CRTL models that were dropped on my as well with non-responding keys. Upon investigating the CRTL model and removing the underside I noticed the area on the backside where the switch plugs in wash pressed in all the way. Once pushed it back into place and reconnected, the CTRL was fully functional. I have no knowledge or background on these keyboards and it was just simple poking around that resulted in success. Now, back to the ALT model being totally dead. Can anyone give me any idea of what the issue could be on this one? Seems to be clean all around from what I can tell or is it just a lost cause and nothing more than cap and switch parts at this juncture? I just like seeing if I can fix something that has a remote chance of seeing new life. Hope this is the right forum Thanks
I personal like the keyboards that the keys are more raised up and a little bit more thicker to press. I find myself missing keys and miss spelling words alot more, scince I;ve baught a new one. I sure hope that Im not the only one who feels this way. Also , was wondering if now a day do they make a computer keyboard that i would be interested in?
Hi all, I am using a DROP ALT with Macbook pro 14 inch with Monterey 12.0.1. The keyboard is plugged into a CalDigit TS3 plus thunderbolt hub and the computer is connected to the hub. Everytime after I unplug the computer from the hub and reconnect, the computer runs the keyboard assistant program asking to identify the type of keyboard. I was wondering if there is a way to aovid this? Thanks!