Okay, so assuming these are the same version KBDfans has listed on their site (with the HHKB-specific kitting option), and I've been trying to get an amswer to this for a while now, but are these actually the sort-of "Ice Frost" Blueish-White that these appear in most of the renders? Or is it a more standard, warm/neutral, WS1-like White, as seen on MT3 BoW, for example? Because, and it's even more exaggerated in the renders (pics?) featured on KBD, but it almost looks closer to the KAT Dice set's "Ice" color, and I love how it looks. It'd be perfect for a build I want to do, but I can't figure out which pictures to believe! Idobao's own site makes them look closer to WS1/neutral, but in some of the shots here (and KBDfans - IF it's the same set...) are back to the more "Blue" shade. So which is it, and does anyone have IRL shots‽

This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....

I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!