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How to remove solder and resolder my DROP Ctrl

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I start putting in new switches and one of my keys became loose and stopped working. I need help :[
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PancakeGoon
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Sep 23, 2021
It's hotswap, so you must have popped the socket for that switch off the PCB itself. Drop's manufacturing and QC still isn't the best for their boards (this has been an issue since day one...) and the sockets failing is one of the most common issues, it seems. Did you try to FORCE the switch in? Because that would not have been smart, and it creates strain on these already-fragile sockets (it also probably says in the manual to be careful, for this very reason). We need a picture of the underside of the PCB to help you here... So, if you tore the socket from the PCB, then you most likely took the solder pads with them (although definitely check!) - If theres a chance this happened because the solder joints themselves were too weak & separated from the pad, then you should be able to add some flux, re-tin the socket legs and PCB pads, and re-heat them in-place. Unfortunately, this is most likely NOT the case... :/ Are both sides of the socket detached from the PCB? If so than youre gonna need to use a nonconductive glue (using mix-yourself Epoxy is best, and will last forever) to reattach the socket, and then, using wires, create Jumpers to reconnect the two pins/legs of the socket back into the PCB's matrix. Essentially, your gonna be soldering a bit of wire re-connecting the sockets' diode-side leg back to that switch's diode, and on the other end, soldering a length of wire from that socket leg to the previous/next switches identical socket-pin. When you broke the socket off, you severed that trace in the keyboards switch matrix, so ut no longer has a complete sequence. I don't own any of Drop's keyboards, so I dont personally know how the traces work, and where they go. And I wouldn't feel comfortable giving directions on what to connect & where - especially without you even giving us a picture to work with... I dont even know if they use QMK/VIA, or if Drop created their own proprietary software... "Luckily" for you, this exact same problem has happened a million times before with Kailh socketed boards, so post a thread on /r/MechanicalKeyboards or GeekHack explaining you broke a socket and need help on how to fix it with a Jumper wire (WITH pictures! Showing exactly which switch no longer functions, and what the socket looks like. Preferably a close-up shot so we can see all of the surrounding traces). Good luck.