DCX vs DCD vs DCL - Drop’s Keycap Profiles Explained
We’ve covered the basics of keycap profiles before—spherical/cylindrical, sculpted/uniform, etc. One thing that has come up more and more over the years as we’ve expanded our portfolio of offerings here at Drop is the distinction between some of our similar profiles. Specifically, what is the actual difference between DCX, DCD, and DCL? Cylindrical Profiles To recap the previous article on the topic, one of the most basic ways to separate various keycap profiles is by shape (cylindrical, spherical, or flat). DCX, DCD, and DCL are all cylindrical profiles. The most famous cylindrical profile is Cherry profile, as defined by the original manufacturer of the keycaps—Cherry. GMK now owns those tools, and as such, only they can technically claim to produce “Cherry” profile keycaps. Similar keycap profiles are often called Cherry profile colloquially, but are in actuality slightly different. For the sake of not splitting hairs, all of the cylindrical profiles discussed here are...
Apr 9, 2024
A mate of mine, having different Topre mks although, asked me to make his Novatouch, Norbauer aluminum case incoming, the best experience he can get.
This leads me to a first statement, all of us being different, there’s no best, being the same, for all of us, and my dream might be your nightmare. It’s up to you, what you prefer, but some hints and tips might be helpful.
Second, all of the following had been inspirited by other people of Geekhack and Deskthority at the beginning, and it’s my way, interpretation (after sometimes trying over and over again). Your approach, outcome is different, that’s absolutely fine by me!
What do we need, time, due to the nature of Topre mks, being in need to open up the case, never ending amount of screws, being in need to unscrew them to simply try something, it’s “very” time consuming. Magnetic screwdrivers are a must, don’t do it without! A clean workspace, well lit, might be helpful.
Opening up the case.
Realforce, flip the case, push, release the four clips at the bottom, flip it over again and remove the top. Unscrew that one screw to release the cable and you’re set to remove the PCB.
Well, heavy screwdriver time incoming, depending on keyboard in between ~ 12 to 30. You’re in need of two different sizes, there are larger and smaller ones given.
It’s a good idea to take photos of the parts, screws …, before you start for later reference. Even though it’s marked somehow, a picture serves better than our memory.
I prefer to leave the PCB upside down after unscrewing and gently and slowly lift up the PCB. Some folks like it better the opposite way.
These two pictures are actualy reassembling, those thoothpicks are my trick to get it easier aligned well. A little bit moving around to much you might find out painfully later a dome(s) might have moved, keys not working properly, starting over again :(
It just happened the other day, that I’ve had a key not registering correct after reassembling till I found out that spring was slightly bend, small failure leading to a bigger mistake and time consuming to find out.
The sliders, genuine ones and Novatouch sliders are secured a bit staying inside the housings, even if you turn the plate, top housing. Clone Royal Kludge, Plum ones simply fall out, not being secured.
I use a small brush or an Q-tip with Ballistol by now: https://www.amazon.de/Ballistol-%C3%96L-500-ml-21150/dp/B003OAOY5K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482487189&sr=8-4&keywords=Ballistol
Several ways to dampen the upstroke.
The cheapest solution, Dental bands, credit to https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44692.0 Available at a friendly dentist, if you happen to know one or looking at eBay. Amazing result considering the bang for the buck, loved them with 45g Realforce, preferred Hypersphere rings with 55g Realforce.
Hypersphere rings, pricey, even more for Europeans: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73940.0 / http://www.ebay.com/usr/hypersphere2016?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
Chinese clone sliders: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Topre-to-MX-adapter-Topre-change-into-MX-switch/32748140639.html?shortkey=zAVzaARz&addresstype=600 Getting more than 500 the sweet deal is starting, time for a tiny group buy with friends to make it cheap(er). They’re my favorite solution by now, only the large stabilized ones are still Novatouch sliders with a Hypersphere ring. Large sliders are not given by the Chinese clones!
Soft-Landing Pads (Soft/Black): https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,slpads&pid=sl120_cs / http://imgur.com/gallery/iGzCV Tried that, but haven’t been that happy, but to be fair, I’m the total counterpart of anything related to ironing something.
Besides these methods I’ve still some self made punched out dampeners from a mate, haven’t tried them, yet, because they came in late and I’m happy by now. We’ve had a small group buy of special o-rings, only 0.2 mm thick from Japan, which turned out to be a bit too wide not staying in place crawling up the sliders.
Having all this options at hand you may still ask yourself which way to go, but this is up to you and the money you may like to spend. I can only speak for myself and my taste, not for yours! If you’re on the fence and are going to try different options, it might be a good idea to wait till you’ve everything at hand, dissemble your keyboard and mod the sliders with different options at once, the number is up to you, and give it some testing with direct comparison, a lot better way to find out what you prefer and timesaving, instead dissembling/reassembling countless times like I did.
Congratulations, you really made it this far, still missing the Piano Player. The answer is simple and had been my initial thought for the reasons only; the mate that asked for help is named Daniel and living in Spain, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_(song)
My favorite Topre as of today would be a HHKB JP plus additional F-row with the feeling of a Realforce having Chinese clone sliders, now you may understand better why I like to switch a lot.
Wish all of you the best, a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Some fine tuning and more pictures later, need a brake now.