(Left to right across the bottom: Land 912, Ruike P-801, Firebird FH41 CF, Y-Start LK5016, TwoSun TS112 Knight. Left to right across the top: Real Steel Black Cat, Kubey KU166)
Looking around Drop I see some love and rather more hate for Chinese knives.
It's one of those things where everyone's coming to the table from a slightly different direction and has their own reasons for feeling how they do. Not too many people are neutral on the topic. Sparks fly.
Me? I'm a big white Midwesterner, born in a small-ass flyspeck of a town 20 miles south of the edge of nowhere. I've traveled some, but never to China; I've worked for Chinese businessmen, but only in the US; I don't speak the language beyond ordering food and I have about as many natural connections to the Chinese knife industry as I do to the man in the moon. I grew up seeing the cheapest things stamped 'Made in China' and knowing people who had fought, when they were younger, in the Korean War against Chinese...
This is something I got into a while ago because I kinda like the idea of personalizing my knives and I like how certain colors look in the light. It's turned into a hobby. I don't know that there's a deeper meaning to it than that - I try to do things I like :)
There's lots of resources available if you want to learn about dyeing things online, and considerably fewer out there about dyeing knife scales. There's walkthroughs for doing this on the stove, and you can try that if you want. Some of the methods I have seen are... well, dangerous, and not in a good way. Others work but have little room for error -- I occasionally do a dyeing job on the stovetop now, but it's fast and somewhat imprecise, so a while back I ended up experimenting and drawing on background information a bit to come up with an alternate process to do it. I use a microwave! In a lot of ways, it's much easier, and you aren't staining up a metal cookpot, and especially once you get used to it, it's a lot...
On Massdrop, there are beginners who are just starting out and experts who really know their stuff. Wherever you find yourself on the spectrum, you should always be able to find answers to your questions within the community.
There’s a tactical knife for every occasion. Some come with screwdrivers, some come with glassbreakers, and others come with a little of everything. Whether you need a knife for everyday use or emergencies, you can usually rely on a tactical blade.
Want to know the difference between various grip types? Or what kind of steel is best for which task? Maybe you just want to learn a bit more about the history or development of these utilitarian blades?
The best way to find the answers to your questions is to ask the community. There are members who are experts in pretty much every area you can imagine, and they can help you go from beginner to pro.
Ask your questions by posting in the discussion below.
A while back I decided to pick up an Orca to see what they were all about, and ended up paying for the purple Mokuti version.
Liked everything about the knife but the inconsistent mokuti coloring, which was pale, winey, and a little yellowish, because of how the mokuti was done.
Moreover the liners were barely anodized at all:
Long story short, I wasn't unhappy enough to go through a returns process, and held onto the knife, which had an undeniable luxe feel to it. Reate makes 'em well. It joined the rotation.
Cut to today: I decided screw it, I'm reanodizing it.
I took it apart and cleaned it all up, and decided to keep the anodization on the clip as is, but everything else was going to go electric blurple.
Incidentally? @erickong will find this interesting: like the Lynx, this is an unkeyed pivot that was initially held in place with a glob of threadlocker:
Because it's adjustable from both sides, unlike the Lynx, it's not...
For reference: on the left is the Benchmade Greg Thompson SOCP. From the top down are the Fox 479TK, the Benchmade 551T, a Kershaw Emerson 6034 trainer with aftermarket modifications, and a Boker Plus Balisong Trainer.
Why the Swiss Cheese look? Trainer knives, when properly made, have the exact same shape and weight as the regular knife, but the blade can't have an edge, even an unsharpened one. Because blade blanks that haven't been ground down or sharpened weigh more than ones that have, manufacturers mill speed holes in the blade to give the blade the proper weight and distribution. Often a different steel is used, particularly for knives with high end steel -- good ol' 420 stainless will do you just fine for a training knife, so long as it's milled to have the correct weighting and edge dimensions. The overall idea is to make the training knife exactly the same in the hand as the edged version. Not close, but dead on. Most are red, the better to identify them as...
I purchased a Klarus G20L in May of 2020. I really like the light. Just thus past week it died on a walk, even though it showed fully charged. I re-charged it and it worked for a few minutes then died again. When it was on the charger, the yellow light blinked 3 or 4 times, then blinked green once. It kept repeating that sequence. Has anyone else had similar problems? Do I just have to contact Klarus directly?