Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
And since I have a gaming laptop , do you think the audio jack can provide enough power to this headphone?
Usable amp/dacs run all the way from the $75 Fiio E10K, the $100 Monoprice "Desktop Amp" (it's also a DAC), the Schiit Fulla (USB powered), other Schiit products, all the way up to boutique stuff costing thousands.
Formulas you *might* be concerned about is the damping factor found by dividing the headphone Ohms (62), by the "output impedance" of the amplifier. Ideally you want to end up with a score 8+. Many amp manufacturers don't even disclose this number but fortunately most will also be low enough you really don't need to concern yourself with it. Even the Fiio is around 10 Ohms output impedance which gets you below the 8 mark (62/10=6.2) but many still love the E10K. Personally I run a lightly modded Creek OBH-11 (around $200 on Amazon) and an Audio-GD NFB-12 ($215+ shipping from China). Both are more than enough to drive these headphones.
BTW, it's not the headphone impedance (Ohms) that makes it hard to drive, it's it's fairly low sensitivity.
It's a matter of control of the drivers. When the coil (and thus, diaphragm) moves, it charges or discharges. When given more current, or drained of current, the coil moves. The buffer section of the amplifier has to not only quickly rush higher currents out, but also be able to drain them when coming from the drivers having to change direction or speed of movement quickly. With insufficient damping, the driver can under-shoot and over-shoot, resulting in poorer sound than with sufficient damping. In addition, the output impedance of the amplifier creates a voltage divider that will affect frequency response.
It's not much different than loudspeakers, except for the power magnitudes being off by 3-6 digits, and system costs being off by 2-4 digits.
At a given sensitivity, the lower impedance the driver, the greater damping factor is needed. As the impedance of the driver gets lower, any given output impedance from an amplifier will affect frequency response more than with a higher impedance driver (-0.05dB@500Hz shouldn't be audible, but -0.15dB@500kHz should be). An amplifier with a higher damping factor will have a lower output impedance (by definition). After a point, a higher damping factor will do nothing for a given set of drivers (even if you can measure differences, if they don't make about 0.1dB difference in the sound reaching your ears, you won't hear the differences).
You won't have any problems with it clipping, but if you wanted to get an O2 for listening at home, I'm sure you'd hear the difference.