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If anyone understands the importance of a good knife, it’s Eric Ochs. Growing up in the Oregon countryside, Ochs naturally gravitated toward knives for outdoor pursuits, and in the mid-2000s he made his first one Read More
Harpoon style blades are marked by an upward ramp on the unsharpened back of the blade. This ramp gives the blade the resemblance of a whaling harpoon with its sharp barb, hence the name.
ceramic low grit and work your way up or to use a sharpening rod system if you’re not skilled on a stone yet. Maintain with a strop or honing rod in my case. Strops add compounds that aren’t always edible and I like to be to able to put my knife through food media for my son and for myself without that chemical taste or contamination. Keep some olive oil on the blade and RWL -34 will hold up for a long time. Very good steel choice here.
bigpappasmurfRWL-34 is a stainless steel, and shouldn't need additional care beyond just keeping it clean. It's not H1, but it's far from 1095. I have RWL-34, 154CM, and ATS-34 blades which are all basically the same steel recipe, and none of them have shown even a hint of corrosion without my doing anything more than cleaning them after use.
All bets are off if you expose it to harsher environments, like salt water soaks, or if you have an exceptionally humid metabolism. Applying some sort of corrosion prevention after cleaning would be prudent.
Any sharpening compound will wash off with soap and water. I have kitchen knives that I sharpen on a strop with black/green/white compound, then wash and rinse before they go back in the kitchen block.
The Orca ships with a flat bevel. If you want to maintain it in as-manufactured condition, you will need a sharpening jig system to hold the precise angle of the bevel as you sharpen it. Any other method (hand sharpening on water stones included) will produce a more or less convex edge, which is not a bad thing at all. It's just not this knife's original type of edge. I have an EdgePro Apex sharpener for large knives, and a Lansky sharpener with a Gatco jig upgrade for pocket knives. The Gatco jig is a larger version of the Lansky jig, with more angle holes. If I started over today, I'd just get the Gatco system, but I already had Lansky ceramic and diamond kits before I discovered the Gatco jig. For touch-ups, I use a Spyderco SharpMaker.
If you start sharpening the Orca on a strop, the edge will slowly take on a full convex bevel as the apex and back edge of the bevel get rounded off over time. You could also do a full convex regrind in one session. I would advise against this if you're not a skilled convex sharpener already.
Apropos of nothing other than I want to show off one of my blades, here's a glam shot of my Fällkniven TK3. It ships with a flat bevel, but really cries out for a convex edge. 15 minutes on my WorkSharp (KO edition) produced this spectacular, molecule-cleaving edge:
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I use a 4-sided strop block for touch-ups and the WorkSharp for heavy figuring.