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Showing 1 of 78 conversations about:
mab0852
61
Aug 17, 2016
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These are great little field sharpeners. They don't cut super fast, and the 800ish grit will pretty quickly wear to something closer to 1000 grit, which is actually a good thing if you touch up often. They are also lighter, more packable, and more efficient than a puck or dual sided natural stone. The diamond plate is known to come unglued from the ceramic over time, but that's not really an issue and I know some guys that separate them on purpose to just carry the coarser diamond side in their pack. I use mine more for axes and hatchets than knives, but its equally proficient for both. Come off the ceramic onto a leather belt and you've got a stellar lightweight field setup.
MDDoge
296
Aug 17, 2016
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mab0852Two questions. With my limited experience 800-1000 grit is a bit too fine for the shaping they mention in the store page, which is usually more of a <600 grit function. Does the shape/hardness of the diamond change it's performance relative to say, a 1000 grit Arkansas stone? What would you say 1000 grit diamond is best for, or is it a good middle ground or jack of all trades kind of stone?
Also, how does this compare to other similar (possibly higher end) diamond and ceramic sharpeners from DMT, Spyderco, or Shapton?
I guess that's 3 questions.
Also, how does this compare to other similar (possibly higher end) diamond and ceramic sharpeners from DMT, Spyderco, or Shapton?
I guess that's 3 questions.
mab0852
61
Aug 17, 2016
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MDDogeWell, anything with grit will shape/profile eventually, but this would be far from the right tool for that task. This is a touch up field stone, not a primary sharpener. It cuts, but as noted, not as fast or efficient as a high end bench stone counterpart like Shapton or Atoma. It's on par with similar pocket offerings from DMT or Spyderco and is a quality piece. You should really be doing everything you can to avoid needing the 800 side on a knife, but if you do moderately dull a blade the 800 is there to bring it back. If you chip a blade, go to a better (more coarse) tool unless you have unlimited time or energy. Again, I use mine in the field primarily for axes and hatchets which need the 800 more often than not and its fabulous for that. I try to not let my knives get beyond something I can strop out, but I have and do use this occasionally when I'm performing a task that's hard on the edge and I need to get a fast toothy edge back to work. Skinning and field dressing is a perfect example of where this tool really shines for a knife. Cut until performance starts to degrade and then take a few swipes back and forth on the ceramic to bring the edge back and I get to keep the blood and guts off my leather strop.
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