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Showing 1 of 1309 conversations about:
Kaan
297
Jun 29, 2015
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Ziggurat
130
Jun 29, 2015
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KaanAre cherry switches not cherry switches? Sorry for any ignorance.
Kaan
297
Jun 29, 2015
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ZigguratI thought so too, but apparently there are bad batches now
All the loose switches I bought from WASD keyboards are perfect, or at least ok
All the switch packs I bought from mechanical keyboards are perfect, probably close to 1000 switches of different kinds
The KBParadise V60's I bought from mechanical keyboards had switch issues tho, in retrospect, the blue switched one likely has bad blues too, similar to the blues I received from massdrop, some of them don't click, most of them click weakly
The stems are probably not cooled well after molding, there are no visible issues, yet the 2 part stem movement is impaired, which causes the click issues, it makes sense to stick to linears and tactile's - the clears in the picture are from massdrop's infinity drop1, they don't have any issues
The stems are probably not cooled well after molding, there are no visible issues, yet the 2 part stem movement is impaired, which causes the click issues, it makes sense to stick to linears and tactile's - the clears in the picture are from massdrop's infinity drop1, they don't have any issues
GetzTheGoldfish
10
Mar 9, 2019
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KaanThis is very old but thank you very much, I have had the massdrop infinity laying in my drawer for 4 years because the quality was so shit. I swore to never use the site again as they didnt offer any assistance.
Ill order new stabilizers and that and maybe it will be worth using.
Kaan
297
Mar 9, 2019
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GetzTheGoldfishGood luck :D Coincidentally, I was cleaning the attic today after 6 years of hoarding boxes etc. - came upon an unused infinity PCB, and what are the chances that you revived my post after all this time too - I'd suggest buying one of the new QMK PCB's, they are lightyears ahead, I like the YMDK one personally, going to do a build soon - I have 3 keyboards with infinity PCB's, at one point going to reprogram them all, but I've been delaying the task indefinitely
Kaan
297
Mar 9, 2019
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GetzTheGoldfishAlso check out my 3d Keyboard Builder on Geekhack/Github, it allows you to quickly get a 3D plate design for 3D printing :D
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I've also converted the top row to 2u, there weren't any issues at all, it was pretty practical (I drilled like 30 places to get it right, the area is pretty empty, so no issues), everything worked on first trial - the result is typing nirvana, the fully lubed 60g clears have a strange hypnotizing thock sound that I'm in love with, can't use any other switch after experiencing this
Some advice/experiences:
1) Don't use the switches from MassDrop, unless they change their source (old news, definitely applies to blues, not sure about linears / tactile switches) 2) Don't use any stabiliser part that MassDrop sends, they are extremely flawed, the stabilisers you see in the picture are from WASD keyboards, luckily I have enough spare stabiliser parts to build 3-4 60%'s - the 2u stabiliser wire MassDrop sends have a faulty bend, it's also too thin, the stabiliser inserts and sliders are also probably of lower quality, the 6.25u wire and the sliders might be the same as WASD keyboards tho, the sliders look the same, but from trials, they didn't work - so, practically speaking, no one should've been able to make this keyboard work with the stabiliser parts they send, it's no wonder why so many people complained (the plate got all the blame, but it was probably the fault of the stabiliser parts all along, the plate is a bit roughly cut, yet the cutouts work - at least for costar stabs) - just buy the stabiliser parts from WASD, it probably costs 3$s or something 3) The PBT keycaps should be Signature Plastics, but somehow they are also very poorly molded, I'm guessing they might be old, as SP improved their PBT's lately, they all have minor/major imperfections, I was going to use some 1.75/1.25 keys, but I decided not to - they don't mix well with other ABS DSA keys, the shape imperfections are easily noticeable :( 4) Used Scotch tape for insulation and sound stage improvement, worked well, no electrical issues with this build (not sure about the sound improvement, there wasn't enough space left for the sponges that I usually use, but I guess it worked well, bottom outs sound pretty deep) 5) Enlarged the left/right/bottom sides of the plates by 0.7/0.5/0.5 mm's, also drilled/enlarged the circle hole of the pcb (there is one circle hole, the other holes have the wiggle room) to allow the pcb to have some wiggle room before fastening it in place, achieved a perfect case/plate placement this way, with no gaps - drilling that hole is a good idea, as it allows the plate to be centered evenly