It's white, just dye it any color you like. You can use any kind of dye like Rit, liquid or powder. Just find a color you like, find a container that will hold enough water to cover your part, fill it with enough boiling water to cover your part, add your dye, let it cool a little (especially for softer plastics), then put your part in. Check it every few minutes for color, it will get darker the longer it is in the dye (depending on the color). Once it is the color you like, remove from the dye bath and rinse with cool water to set the dye. Dry the part and re-assemble your keyboard. You now have a custom-dyed case!
ArrbjornI've been reading up on this and your post leads me to believe you have some experience, so I have a question;
I might just do this to my White/Grey kbd67Lite, but I'm concerned about what Dye to get specifically. Does the type of plastic the case uses matter in regards to what kind I need?
My KBD67 is mostly ABS for reference, BUT - I also want to dye & "Frost"-via-sanding the Acrylic top layer of my Knob Goblin macropad case (just your standard stacked acrylic-type layers). Would these two materials use the same type of Dye?
Thanks!
PancakeGoonAll types of plastics use the same dye, the only common variables are water temperature (some plastics melt at relatively low temperatures) and how long the dye will take in order to take hold.
A word of caution, many people consider ABS plastics to be "impossible" to dye because the temperature at which it will accept dye and the temperature at which it melts are extremely close (within a few degrees of each other). Dying ABS is generally not recommended for beginners.
The method I posted works easily with most other plastics such as PBT, FRP, etc..
ArrbjornDamn, just my luck. :(
Well I'm definitely incredibly glad I read this. Is dying plastics the kind of thing where if it isn't up to the optimal "dying temp" for said plastic, then the color just wont absorb at all?
I'm wondering if it would still be worth the trouble if I keep it below optimum temp, just to be safe, but still get a nice pale/pastel-like shade... Or will the color just not start absorbing (or not hold and fade over time) until that minimum range?
Any other creative ways to "dye", color or wrap plastics/ABS?
PancakeGoonIf you can't get the dye to take it'll be blotchy and barely tinted, and you can't fix it. There used to be thus stuff called iDye, but I haven't seen it around in a while. It was basically pre-mixed dye and acetone. It worked pretty well and was beginner friendly.
Other ideas? Lots. Vinyl wrap (recommend a professional, that shape won't be easy to get right), hydro dipping (can be done professionally or at home in a large container with hot water either with a kit or spray paint for a tie dye effect), you could pay an artist to do sharpie art on it, or do it yourself. You could simply put a nice paint finish on it, finish with spray clear coat (the real stuff) for an automotive quality finish, you could sticker bomb it, you could have it air brushed (guys that paint rc bodies can do some really sick designs), there's just a ton of options beyond dying.
SpencerLOk, I have the GMMK Pro in white and this board is just too similar color wise. I would definitely buy this in a different color; love the layout. Thanks!
MX compatible just means that they mount to a cross shaped stem. The switches that come with this board will support them just fine. The thing I would be more concerned about with this board is the short right shift key. A lot of cheaper cap sets won't include that since you only find it on 65/75% boards.