Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
When looking to improve the sound of one's headphone set-up, selecting 'good headphones' and 'the maximum-attainable volume level' are not the only factors that must be taken into consideration.
For music enjoyment at home, the HD 6XX are probably the best available headphones for under $200. But while plugging them into a computer or phone's headphone jack (DAC/amp) might sound loud enough, the quality of the sound will be lacking substantially compared to how they can potentially sound.
The HD 6XX/650/600 scales (improves) with more power on tap from the amplifier used. With more power available, the headphones will exhibit increased dynamics and improved bass solidity. Generally speaking, a good DAC will increase overall clarity, imaging, and sound-stage width. Tube amplifiers, equalization, and a balanced connection can also improve the sound of the headphones. While a separate DAC and amplifier can be used in conjunction, a combination 'DAC/amp' unit will suffice - and may even be preferable - for most people.
Two excellent value portable DAC/amps: The FiiO Q1 mkII ($100) would be an excellent choice for less power-hungry headphones. (Only use this model with the HD 6XX if you can take advantage of its balanced-out.) Otherwise, I recommend the more-powerful iFi nano iDSD Black Label ($200).
TL;DR: A common misconception with headphones is that the model used and the volume level they can reach (with your device) are the only important factors to consider. The fact is, no computer or phone can drive the HD 6XX (or any high-impedance headphone) properly. To hear them anywhere close to their full potential, a DAC and amplifier are required.
I think the reference to "scaling well" should more aptly be called "amped properly." High impedance headphones are relatively easy to drive since they typically draw less current as long as your amp can supply the required amount of voltage for a given loudness.
But when you start looking at specs, many units are not able to output that much voltage. Phones and laptops are around 2Vrms and most portable amps are around 3-4Vrms. Until you start moving up to some of the beefier, mid-tier amps, you start to get more power. Most people tend to be on a budget (as the 6XX is a $200 headphone) and don't have an appropriate amp to push them. Usually a phone, laptop, DAP, etc.
I won't go into balanced vs SE but that can make a difference as well since the power output typically skyrockets when using a balanced connection.
Here's a classic on the subject of impedance and headphone amps in general. https://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/02/headphone-impedance-explained.html
Obviously, I avoided technical jargon in my post, as most people won't understand - or care. I merely brought attention to the fact that, when using the HD 6XX, a high-quality DAC and amplifier are required to achieve the sound anywhere close to their full potential.
Having said this, I changed my headline to better reflect the purpose of this conversation.
Just by inputting the specs for the HD 650 (300 Ohms / 103 dB 1V/RMS) into a calculator, you get how one would get to it's MAX limit for a piece of dynamic music. Obviously, no sane human would ever listen at 120dB but it must be accounted for as music can swing that loud and that the amp has enough headroom to compensate for such transients:
EDIT: Wanted to include this as well since it shows the variable amount of voltage and current depending on listening levels.
Also, the chart at the end is very interesting and will give some additional context to what we were discussing above when it comes to Power vs Voltage sensitivity and its effect on loudness.
Audiophiles should learn basic electronics.
The one that needs to learn the basics appears to be you in this scenario especially after making the comment about burning out voice coils. There is already plenty of documentation on this subject. If what you were saying had any merit, there would not be any need for any manufacturer to make amps with additional headroom to compensate for these swings.
When you listen to the music, let's say 80 dB SPL(the quietest part), the peak will be at 110 dB SPL. So, you need an amplifier that can drive your headphone to 110 dB SPL which for HD650 is 2.238 V. Anything more is unnecessary since the dynamic range of music hardly exceeds 30 dB. This has been studied extensively. Search for articles on "Loudness War".
As for why manufacturer make amps capable of large voltage swings are
1) Marketing.
2) It is free. If you look at the spec. sheet of an amplifier, you will find a graph between THD and output voltage. The THD raises gradually and at a particular output voltage, it raises very sharply. The engineers take some cut-off point like 1% THD and then quote the corresponding voltage. Some manufacturers take 10% THD as the cut-off point and will quote some ridiculus values like 18V.
To tell you the truth, there is no need for an amplifier since our smartphones are perfectly capable of driving high impedance headphones. Due to some stupid European laws which stipulates that portable devices shall not output more than 85 dB SPL, the output voltage is kept low though some phone manufacturers do allow higher voltage for the headphone output.
Your comment about not needing any sort of amplifier is laughable. It truly is. That bizarre logic doesn't account for current. Voltage is only part of the equation for power. Ensuring that headphones (especially planars) have enough current is important to ensure they sound their best. This is very important with planars as they are typically pretty inefficient and require more current and voltage than their dynamic counterparts.
Here's an article that explains this further and provides charts and comparisonsr: http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/09/more-power.html.
This article breaks down the terms used above for those that may not know and even states how this was the baseline for InnerFidelity's headphone measurements (a very good read): https://www.innerfidelity.com/content/nwavguys-heaphone-amp-measurement-recommendations.
And a few snippets just to be thorough for tl;dr folks:
DESIRED MAXIMUM VOLUME: So how loud is “loud enough”? To establish the upper end of subjective tastes, studies show the threshold of pain starts around 120 dB SPL. It seems reasonable to use that as the absolute upper limit. 120 dB SPL is also the level at which even short term exposure can cause permanent hearing impairment. Studies have shown even sustained average levels above 85 dB SPL can cause hearing damage. For more on these thresholds see Sound Pressure Levels. The research indicates the average maximum level should be at least 85 dB, and with classical music, that puts the peak level up to 30 dB higher at a worst case 115 dB). For more typical music peak levels of 110 dB SPL are more reasonable.
LIVE MUSIC: If you monitor sound pressure levels during live performances, rock concerts typically average 110 dB with peaks of 115 dB to 120 dB. Classical performances typically have peaks hitting 110 dB and a much lower average level of around 90 dB or less.
HEADROOM: The 105 – 115 dB guideline established above works fairly well without any extra headroom. But audio purists might want to add another 25% – 100% (1 – 3 dB) more power for a bit of extra headroom so the amp is even less likely to clip any peaks.
Provided are examples of a couple of songs that show these swings as well to demonstrate what I'm saying. 120 dB is a safe bet for ensuring you have your headroom covered. That's the point I'm trying to convey here and why it matters.
No offense, but you seem more confused on this matter than you're letting on.
As far as current demands are concerned, it is irrelevant since HD650 requires only 7.45mA for 110dB SPL. Even a $0.50 DAC chip can deliver that current.
The article I linked to has a song example that hits 114-115 dB. I'll copy it here since you're too lazy to read the objective proof provided:
"Now the peaks hit 5.1 volts in one direction or about 10.2 volt peak-to-peak (the sample in this case is about 9 V p-p). That’s about 3.2 – 3.6 Vrms which is about 114 dB from the HD650’s on the peaks."
Again, you are obviously misguided on this topic. Your subjective opinion on this matter is wholly irrelevant as we have enough objective evidence that argues the contrary.
Your claim: Rock concerts and classical music exceed 110 dB SPL and it translates into record music. My claim: Recorded music or sound has no concept of absolute SPL levels, only relative to 0 dB SPL. Since the dynamic range of music hardly exceeds 30 dB and since a reasonable listening volume at 80 dB would put the peak at 110dB SPL, there is no need for amplifiers with very high voltage.
TESTING WITH FLIM & THE BB’s: Next I repeated the above test but this time using the same Flim & the BB’s – New Americatrack shown earlier. I set the volume to where the loudest parts of the track were about at my limit of still being “comfortable”. Now the peaks hit 5.1 volts in one direction or about 10.2 volt peak-to-peak (the sample in this case is about 9 V p-p). That’s about 3.2 – 3.6 Vrms which is about 114 dB from the HD650’s on the peaks. This at the limit of or beyond what most portable amps can manage (the O2 being a notable exception). This correlates well with the 115 dB rule of thumb for highly dynamic music. So, working backwards from the threshold of pain and hearing loss you get 105 – 115 dB. Using live performance levels you get 105 – 115 dB. And testing using my own music, ears, and headphones, I get 107 – 114 dB SPL. So, all things considered, 110 dB SPL seems like a good target if you want to pick just one number. Add 5 dB for really wide dynamic range music at live levels and subtract 5 dB if you listen to mostly Lady Gaga or don’t like it very loud.
HEADROOM: The 105 – 115 dB guideline established above works fairly well without any extra headroom. But audio purists might want to add another 25% – 100% (1 – 3 dB) more power for a bit of extra headroom so the amp is even less likely to clip any peaks.
Again, the points you keep bringing up are irrelevant to what the data shows us. You have provided nothing otherwise except your opinion. As it keeps being stated, these MAX levels are for headroom.
I will post my calculations so that anybody can verify it.
HD650 sensitivity 103 dB/V SPL Voltage required for 110 dB SPL = 1*10^((110-103)/20) = 2.238 volt Current required = (2.238/300) = 7.46 mA
Yes. I mentioned several times that quietest part of music is at 80 dB SPL which means the nominal level might be at 90 dB SPL depending on the music. Listening at any levels in excess of 85 dB results in hearing loss. So, one should actually put the quietest part of the music at 65 or 70 dB to maintain one's hearing.
Your statements are more than misleading. A person would have to listen at a continuous level of 85 dB for more than 8 HOURS to cause damage. Even at 100 dB one would need to listen continuously for over 15 min to cause damage. Curious you leave those facts out.
The point still stands that for peaks in music, as indicated above and in the articles I linked to, require a headroom upwards of max 120 dB for transient sounds. So for all intents and purposes having an amp to accomodate these swings is pertinent.
Then, I realize you make statements like this regarding the 650/6XX, " No. It doesn't loves tubes. That is audiophile BS. Any amp with greater than 1 Vrms output should be sufficient to power it."
You're just wholly misguided.
Also, there are plenty of calculators to provide power requirements for headphone and amps. Here's the full chart which still correlates to the articles and charts I shared above:
The Audioengine D1 works and sounds fine, but it's kind of borderline in being able to drive the 6xx's. I may add a more powerful external amp later, but I'm pretty happy how adaptable the 6xx's are despite their high impedance. A lot of reviewers have said so much and so far as a guy on a budget, I can definitely say I agree with them.
- Do you own a DAC now?
- What features/inputs are you hoping to have?
- Might you consider purchasing a pair of powered speakers in the near future?
- All-in, what is the maximum you'd be willing to spend on a DAC and amp?
- Would you intend for this purchase to be your 'end-game'... for at least the next 5 years, or so?
All the best, Matthew- I don´t own a dedicated DAC (such as Topping D30/D50, etc) to improve the sound of the music played from laptops or PCs. I usually listen to my headphones with hi-res DAC players (Fiio X1 II* Sony NWA35) and also with Ipods/Ipads/Iphones (I´m revealing my taste for Apple devices :-)). In very few occasions I may use the MacBook Air or PC.
- With the portable players, I normally use desktop amplifiers (SMSL Sap II, Fiio K5) or portable (Topping Nx1s/Fiio A1), the portable I use mainly for the bass boost that they provide.
- Inputs: for me it would be enough to have RCA inputs.
- I´m not planning to purchase speakers. I already have fantastic speakers for my HIFI equipments (JBL Monitor studio and Bose Bass Reflex, both manufactured in 1991 and still in pristine condition). So I don´t really need a pre-amp for this.
- Yes, I would like to stick to your advice and buy the "the best toy", a high quality device that could be considered end-game (if possible for more than 5 years :-)).
But indeed for you to understand why I´m so doubtful I need to explain that I always was a "cost-benefit" guy, and preferred the "optimal price" product instead of the most expensive/best one. That´s why I referred in one of my previous posts to the law of diminishing returns. If I was sure that the THX is noticeable better than the ATOM and that I´m going to "squeeze" all its potential, I would not care about the price difference. I also don´t care about waiting until December to receive it. My only fear is spend a good money in a Ferrari car and then drive it like if it was a Ford Focus, if you know what I mean :-). I hope that with the info provided you could help me to take a decision. *What do you think of portable DAC players such as the Fiios?. They are not precisely cheap and I always assumed that they must as good as the desktop DACs. Is it not the case?. PS notesMy advice is to own fewer - but nicer - things. If that means selling some of your players/headphones in order to afford more-expensive (better-performing) products, I say go that route. In the long run, I don't think you'll regret having this approach. If you don't want to sell anything right now, fine. You could consider the O2 + SDAC amp ($150) that's currently being offered. I have the Mayflower Electronics edition, and its sound is significantly better - and more powerful - than the FiiO Q1 mkII. Keep in mind though, the O2 is a desktop only unit, and you mainly use portable devices... most of which probably cannot connect to the O2 over USB. In conclusion, just get the FiiO Q5s... and be done.