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Showing 1 of 76 conversations about:
theguywitheyebrows
52
Oct 8, 2015
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is this one full tang? i bought a mora fireknife and only afterwards on the actual tag did i read that it was only half tang. if this one is full tang, i'll get one even after the drop ends if i have to. mora makes a GREAT knife, but i want to be able to baton without any work of snapping the next knife i buy.
DuxDawg
107
Oct 10, 2015
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theguywitheyebrowsNone of the MoraKnivs are full tang. Full tang has nothing to do with a knife's ability to be batoned. That is a popular myth promulgated by the clueless. Not that knives should be batoned at all, but we'll skip that discussion for now. All knives will break from being batoned. I say again, all. A 1" thick knife made by the best knife maker in all the world will break from being batoned. It is only a matter of when.
DuxDawg
107
Oct 10, 2015
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theguywitheyebrowsOf course there are a myriad of things we can do to mitigate the damage from batoning.
The most obvious is to use the proper tool. Such as wood, steel or plastic wedges; axe, hatchet, tomahawk, maul or froe. Next is only strike the implement being batoned with wood - never stone or steel. We can choose woods with straight grain, few knots, that have a diameter half or less the length of the blade. Once the wood starts to split we can wiggle the implement down, rather than hitting it the whole way. Among other legends of the outdoors, Mors Kochanski frequently does just that. We can baton around the outside where the wood releases much more freely rather than stupidly always splitting the center.
Never put any pressure on the handle while striking! This forms a fulcrum that completely unnecessarily puts vastly greater stress on the blade.
The most obvious is to use the proper tool. Such as wood, steel or plastic wedges; axe, hatchet, tomahawk, maul or froe. Next is only strike the implement being batoned with wood - never stone or steel. We can choose woods with straight grain, few knots, that have a diameter half or less the length of the blade. Once the wood starts to split we can wiggle the implement down, rather than hitting it the whole way. Among other legends of the outdoors, Mors Kochanski frequently does just that. We can baton around the outside where the wood releases much more freely rather than stupidly always splitting the center.
Never put any pressure on the handle while striking! This forms a fulcrum that completely unnecessarily puts vastly greater stress on the blade.
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