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Showing 1 of 12 conversations about:
QSP Bison D2 Fixed Blade Knife w/ Kydex Sheath
AJAugust
353
Jan 11, 2021
Given D2 steel for a knife for what appears to be an outdoor intended use, read... heat, water, humidity, sweat, etc..., seems like a poor choice of materials. It will need constant care. Pass :(
(Edited)
method_burger
563
Jan 12, 2021
AJAugusti regularly use 1095 and other high carbon steels. never had a problem with corrosion, even when my friend stored one of my knives with onion chunks still stuck on. the caveat, as long as the surface finish is pretty good and you dont mind a bit of etching in the long run. for reference, a beadblast finish would corrode all steels eventually, stainless or not.
AJAugust
353
Jan 12, 2021
method_burgerI appreciate your comment... As with a lot of different materials, those materials that are described and labeled as “D2”, or “1095”, or “abc”, etc., still have varying ‘grades’ within that same group but still have the same label. For me, when I think of steel degradation, I find myself looking at and addressing the most vulnerable part of the knife namely at the bevel of the blade, where all the action takes place. There is so little material at the bevel of the overall knife that any deterioration, be it physical (chipping, curling, rolling) from use or chemical (pitting, rusting, oxidation) from exposure is a very large percentage of the overall blade. To keep a blade in good working order, my OCD kicks in and I have to sharpen it :) And then I may look at the rest of the knife and see a ‘blemish’, and more OCD kicks in and I have to remove it :) ..., and so on. Please..., no intervention is needed... there are those who have tried with no success.... I will stop now :)
method_burger
563
Jan 12, 2021
AJAugustrust doesnt really occur that easily on most steels, it's not like 52100 which starts oxidizing in literal air. ive had some pretty bad storage habits to test out how rust resistant high carbon steels and tool steels rust. so far, not oiling the blade, and leaving it in the sheath doesnt affect it at all. what does affect it is either storing it in a high acidic/salty environment (like by the sea or in an onion) or not treating the inside of the leather sheath, which seems to absorb and hold water inside the sheath, and even then the leather needs to be very fuzzy, as in tight grain leather seems to absorb and hold a lot less water to the point that 1075 and 0-1 tool steel wont rust that easily with a high satin finish.
if you do decide to buy a semi stainless or high carbon steel blade and have issues with ocd, i would bring some small strops with black and green compound. easy way to polish on the fly
AJAugust
353
Jan 12, 2021
method_burgerIt’s funny you should mention the ‘inside’ of a leather sheath. I just started to make an attempt to treat the interior of unlined (without plastic or nylon inserts) sheaths in the past couple of years. I often wondered how ‘far’ can I reach down into the sheath to make it effective. My OCD is having a field day with it!
Great idea with and small strops. By the way, I really like high carbon steels for its overall cutting and use action. Great to sharpen and allows for a mirror finish on the bevel that impresses onlookers :)
(Edited)
method_burger
563
Jan 18, 2021
AJAugustyeah, inside leather sheaths are a pain. honestly, i havent found a great way, other than treat it before hahaha. i have seen a video of people pouring finisher into the sheath, and then using a heat gun to 'even it out' but that could be too conditioner, that it becomes a hydroscopic environment, which would actually repel any water in the atmosphere/knife onto the knife, causing more rust. to get around this problem, i modified the knives, mirror polish, with a light acid wash, and flitz polish. seems to mostly solve the problem, but it does get darker and darker overtime, which looks cool, but isnt exactly doing its job as anti-rust. the first couple of knives i make suffer this problem, but im too lazy to remake sheaths lol
Schuyler
170
Jan 28, 2021
method_burgerY'all are nuttier then black squirrels in an oak tree. Spray some WD-40 into your leather sheaths so the inside soaks it up, give it a light spritz once a month to refresh it. Also sheaths are meant for carrying a blade and makeing it easier to use, not for storage so if you're leaving your knife in its leather sheath overnight then you're just being a bad knife owner.
method_burger
563
Jan 29, 2021
Schuylerthe whole point of this discussion is to try and make leather sheaths more viable for storage. besides, been storing my knives in leather sheaths for years. all carbon steel knives, no issues with rust except the first sheath i made. (but that was literally my first leather project, so theres a bunch of.... not great 'features' included)
also... why would i use wd40 when i have access to multiple proper leather conditioners and finishers? long term, you're going to have a lot of dust buildup in your sheath, its going to be even worse for even short term carry. this can also promote fungal growth long term. plus now you cant use your knife to cut food. i mean, you could, but you end up smelling that stuff all over your food. not to mention all the superficial damage it can cause with current dyes, finishers, conditioners, etc.
wd40 works in a pinch, but its not great long term. sort of like using wd40 as a lubricant for your knife pivot. it works until it clogs up
(Edited)
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