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Qudelix-5K Bluetooth USB DAC/Amp
$95
$109

Qudelix-5K Bluetooth USB DAC/Amp

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$95
$109
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Chrixxer23
12
Aug 23, 2023
Which is the better unit to drive HiFiMan planar magnetic cans, this or the BTR5-2021?
blorg
35
Aug 25, 2023
They use the exact same DAC/amp chips and are entirely identical in terms of sound quality and output power. The Qudelix has slightly higher max voltage output than the BTR5 for high impedance cans (this is presumably just a software limit on the latter as they are literally the same chips) but they have the same power into the lower impedances of Hifiman planars and will be exactly the same. The Qudelix is smaller, lighter, integrated clip and has a much better app and PEQ support. BTR5 has the screen showing volume and input which is nice, and better buttons. Q5K has much better battery management, BTR5 is always charging while Q5K can actually run off USB power. So BTR5 if you use it plugged in a lot the battery will degrade after a year or so while Q5K is fine. I have both around 2 years, and this was my experience. Qudelix IMO is the much better all round device. "HiFiMan planar magnetic cans" isn't very descriptive as Hifiman make some of the easiest to drive headphones (OG Ananda- 103dB/mW) and some of the hardest (HE6SEV2- 83dB/mW). MOST Hifimans can be driven satisfactorily from either Q5K or BTR5 using a balanced cable though, I have tried HE1000 Stealth, Arya Stealth, OG Ananda, Sundara, Edition XS, HE400SE. Edition XS and HE400SE are the most marginal but still OK. All the others I think absolutely fine. I have even tried the HE6SEV2 and it actually makes noise but wouldn't be a rec.
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Franko776
2
Aug 23, 2023
does it draw power from the phone or does it have an internal battery?
Chrixxer23
12
Aug 23, 2023
Internal battery, or you can run it as a USB DAC/Amp where it pulls from the phone's power.
hatman
364
Aug 23, 2023
Chrixxer23So could you also draw power from a USB connection to a laptop, so you wouldn't be using the built-in battery?
Franko776
2
Aug 28, 2023
Chrixxer23Thanks, I didn't see any mention of how long would the battery last though, anybody knows?
Helstar
4
Aug 30, 2023
hatmanWhen its plugged into the laptop it will run off of whatever its connected to by default but you can turn off charging I think on the device itself if not you can for sure on the browser extension you can use for it. Lot of options and things you can change on it.
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 23, 2023
TL;DR — Oh, yeah, it has an internal battery. The Good Stuff: It must have an internal battery being that it’s Bluetooth, therefore wireless. Actually, my first question was whether the USB-C connection is “charging only” or if it also functions to support the DAC. The answer to that is it must be the latter as the specs show “USB & LDAC” by the resolution. Speaking of, why is the resolution capped at just 24/96? There’s two (2) ES9219 Quad DAC+ chips in this thing and they each support up to 32/384 (not to mention being DSD256 capable), so why not take full advantage of them? I personally don’t own any songs with that high of a resolution, but other people do and they may want to be able to enjoy the quality that their chips are fully capable of producing! (I generally ‘compromise’ and keep my music right around 24/48 or even 24/96, but I do convert it down to “CD Quality” ALAC before transferring it onto my legacy iPod 5 with the Wolfson DAC. I’ll enjoy the higher resolution files on my newer devices that support my variety of USB dongles.) The only thing that I could think of is that it has to do with the limitations of Bluetooth Audio, something that will always take a ‘backseat’ to wired audio. I get that you theoretically could have HD Audio via Bluetooth, but realistically how good is it going to actually sound (comparatively speaking)?!
blorg
35
Aug 25, 2023
SuperFlyEDSguyMy understanding, it is using the Qualcomm QCC5124 as the core SOC and also for both BT and USB Audio support. The DSP for the PEQ is also done by the QCC chip. Qudelix have a diagram with the QCC5124 showing UAC1.0 input which is max 24/96. Qualcomm's datasheet does say it supports up the 192kHz I2S & SPDIF but possibly not with USB and/or the DSP functionality, and that's the priority on the Q5K. The SOC is limited in how much processing power and memory it has and 192 would be double everything, 384 would be 4x. The QCC5124 then passes it on out to the ES9219 chips. So that's the bottleneck, everything goes through that first. Fiio use separate USB controller chips that support higher sample rates BUT their EQ/PEQ support is absolutely terrible and historically has had lots of caveats, such as not working at all on the USB or LDAC on the BTR5. And even on their newest device, the BTR7, while the EQ on that DOES work on USB, they state it will only work if the USB is set to UAC1.0 (max 24/96) - so Fiio seem to have the exact same limitation if you want to incorporate that functionality, but it's not clear to users who just find the EQ doesn't work. There's also then that the Qudelix just works, and the EQ just works, and it works with every mode and input you can use the device in... while Fiio, it works or doesn't work (and you don't know why) depending on the specific transmission mode set... and half the time it forgets your EQ you put in, or in the older devices sometimes bricked them entirely if you used EQ too much... it's a mess. In practice- it really doesn't matter and you can't hear higher sample rates anyway, while the PEQ functionality is huge and actually makes a big difference.
blorgPEQ + PlayStation/Switch compatibility >>> resolution higher than 24/96 (which is already higher than CD quality).
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 29, 2023
blorgGood answer! Thanks for the details! I gotta say that I have to agree with you. In general, I like Fiio as a brand, but regardless of the device IMHO the only way to EQ something is going to be externally in the chain, otherwise you’re doing yourself a ginormous disservice. For EQing, I’ve come to enjoy JDS Labs’ Subjective3. Simple is usual better. Software EQing eats up battery, not to mention being the bottleneck that you pointed out. Interestingly enough @Evshrug and I have discussed the psychoacoustics in HD Audio on here pretty extensively. You’re 100% right that you can’t hear above “CD Quality” and in reality adult humans don’t come anywhere even close as we age. I’m on the higher-end and still have a good 4 kHz to 5 kHz before getting to the frequency limits of “CD Quality.” I still enjoy a slightly higher bitrate behind my audio for a couple of reasons, namely ensuring that I am getting the smallest file-size while still remaining “Lossless” and trying to take advantage of those psychoacoustics that I previously mentioned. I generally use 16 or 24/48, though I mostly save my files as 24/96 and “downgrade” them accordingly before sticking them on a device. If I could only get a track as “CD Quality,” that’s fine with me too as I’m not really losing out on anything provided it’s in a true “Lossless” format like FLAC or ALAC (I prefer the latter). It still sounds damn good on my setup! Aside from frequency, we could still pack a lot more data when looking at the other side of the metric and moving up to 24-bit audio. 32-bit seems like too much unless you’re creating a studio master! 😆 Regardless, you made a great point on the bottleneck, which shows how many corners are truly being cut on devices that should be capable of a whole lot more!
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 29, 2023
EvshrugJust a little, LOL! 😂
SuperFlyEDSguyMaybe I’m too much of a gamer, lol! Good to see you’re still here, enjoying your self!
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 30, 2023
EvshrugNothing wrong with that! It seems my two main forms of relaxation other than anything electronics is gaming and music! So, I try to drop by (maybe a little pun is intended!) on the forum when I can. It’s a pretty good forum all-around and unlike other forums the folks here seem more serious and less trolling. Besides, you could find killer gear on here too, sometimes the price is even right (R.I.P. Bob)! BTW, I started off gaming casually because I had the time to do so again, but it very quickly became more while Steam started to suckle off my credit card like it’s very life depended on it. 65K headshots later in The Division 2 and I find myself actually getting to beta test for Ubi. I’m also active with EA, but not currently testing anything at the moment. What have you been playing to keep yourself busy? I got a handful of games that I rotate that just don’t seem to get old! I actually find it therapeutic when dealing with my chronic pain. BTW, I tagged you on a question the other day. I’m looking for a replacement headband, third party since Creative doesn’t make an OEM, for my BlasterX H7. I remembered that you have one on your tree, and thought you may have an idea since the stock headband is finally flaking off! Any ideas would be appreciated! BTW, this is kinda funny, I’ve used a ton of cans and a plethora of IEMs, but finally got around to trying not one, but two classics this week, the Sony MDR-7506 and the Philips 9600! Can you believe that I’ve NEVER used them?! Overall I was pretty impressed with the Sony, it seems to sound like a very prominent V-shape to me, but I may be wrong since I didn’t see the charts. The bass is nice, yet not overpowering. The highs are definitely prominent. The mids seem to glue it together, yet don’t seem very present, but I like the overall sound! The 9600 has excellent separation and is very full, but I think I hear a very small amount of distortion at certain frequencies, but that’s probably because I’ve spoiled myself with multi-driver IEMs like crazy! I’m gonna keep both, they are definitely excellent for being sub-$100 cans!
SuperFlyEDSguythe Sony MDR-7506 sounded like the mids were sucked out to me too… wonder if it’s some sort of amp mismatch? The SPH9600 indeed is very clear, but sometimes that emphasis makes it sound a little etched… but still, plenty to like there, and it’s easy to mod to add a boom mic with the V-Moda BoomPro. I replied and shared two ideas on refurbing your Creative headset. I think most headband wraps made for Beyerdynamic should work too, especially ones made compatible with the Custom One Pro. im trying to overcome some writer’s block/camera shyness to review the HD 660S2: I’m enjoying the headphone, but I have to get back into the mode of thinking WHY I like it and why people might care.
(Edited)
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 30, 2023
EvshrugGood thoughts. Solid, as usual! 👍 I figured the Dekoni wraps for the Beyerdynamics would be a close fit, but was too lazy to dig out my 770s to do a side-by-side. I’ll likely do that and if it’s a close enough match, I’ll bite. I found some okay replacement ear pads on Amazon for about $10. The pads themselves are great, but the foam needs to be separately inserted… yeah! They feel comfy though and not gonna complain for $10! I also immediately changed out the ear pads on the 7506 because, well, Sony stock ear pads! The ones that came on the Philips are very nice though, extremely comfy, the only issue is that my wife doesn’t quite get open-back cans and thinks it defies the purpose of being able to listen in private. She was wondering why the volume was so high while I was enjoying the remastered Beatles “Blue” album! I’ve explained this to her before because she asked me the same exact question when she could hear a pair of my Sennheisers from a few feet away. That was a couple years back, so she gets a pass! 😂 (In case you’re wondering why I didn’t just replace the ear pads with the OEM, I tried and they lost my package! They then gave me hell about getting my money back almost 40 days later! I finally told them to get me the refund or they get a charge-off from AMEX! It was escalated and I got my money back within 48-hours, but I still needed ear pads, hence Amazon! It’s weird because that was the cheapest order that I ever placed with Creative and it became a giant fiasco, but big orders arrived in only two days!!!) I will have to check the curve on those Sonys because it’s a very defined “V,” but executed nicely, and Sony likes their bass! Oddly, this had very up front highs too, well, it works, and I like them so I’ll play around with them. As far as for studio use, I’m going to call bullshit because they are NOT flat by any stretch, but many companies put “Professional” on their devices just to get the volume in their sales. It sort of sounds, IMHO, what Bose SHOULD sound like if they actually wanted to appeal to listeners that give a damn! Just my $0.02 though! Whenever I’ve worked in Cubase, Sennheiser was always my brand of choice to get a more accurate, flat representation. You are supposed to EQ from there. I’ll hop over and read what you wrote about the H7s just to make sure I’m not missing anything, I super appreciate it! As for the 660S2, I think it’s simple, those bad boys don’t need the pep talk because they sell themselves! I’d go with why they don’t need you to provide a million reference points as the quality and sound signature is just phenomenal! I’d think it would be more about enjoying them with the music, as they’re designed for, over a more technical analysis. Describe what you enjoy sonically when listening to various genres and explain what the data points can’t tell you. Just keep it about the application and practical use, but highlight the specs just to give your audience a general idea, but don’t dwell on that because they could easily look it up. Maybe go with what amps it should pair nicely with to avoid any confusion when actually getting it unboxed. I think they’d make GREAT studio cans, just not for every genre with the wider sub-bass, however I’ve used far less expensive Sennheisers that worked very well, but a jump to the 660S2 is a quantum leap! They are a natural match for HD files being that they top out at over double the 20 kHz norm! It’s just the amp that will be a bit of a hurdle for some being that the Impedance is kinda, sorta high. So, basically I would want to hear about what I simply can’t look up. I hope that helps a bit. Just a quick brainstorm. Whatever you go with, you got this, I seriously can’t think of another person on the forum with the depth of knowledge that you possess and that’s saying A LOT! ✌️
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 30, 2023
EvshrugBTW, I got it on Woot as the kit with the OEM mic included for $65: Philips SHP9600MB Over-Ear Studio Headphones for Recording - Open Back Gaming Headset with Detachable Microphone, Studio Monitor Headphones for DJ They had the original one without the mic for $55 and the X2HR for $115. I browse them often enough cause they have limited time crazy deals. Some of their offerings are garbage, others are refurbs, but ones like this are brand new retail box! I think I did alright on it. 🤔
JSWolf
2
Aug 30, 2023
SuperFlyEDSguyThere is more to high resolution audio then the top end frequencies. There is better sound where we can here and better resolution and better error correction and better low end. So yes, it's better then CD quality and while we may not be able to hear up to 20kHz, it's also about what we can hear sounding better.
SuperFlyEDSguy
58
Aug 30, 2023
JSWolfAgreed. I could have went on-and-on, but I already wrote a virtual essay and was trying to be very limited to wrap-up my thoughts. My goal was to do exactly what you just did, to simply spark some thought on the subject to overcome the creative writers block. Remember, my comment is in relation to the 660S2 and how its specs best correlate to the most enjoyable sonic experience, rather than focusing on the nuances of “HD,” “Lossless,” etc. Generally, though, if I was to purchase a “HD Source,” I would only need to focus on three things:
  1. File Format — Is it “Lossless?”
  2. Bit Depth
  3. Sample Rate
Everything else will be more-or-less device dependent as my cans will dictate the low end of the sample rate as well as the high end. My DAC will be able to handle 32-bit files, or maybe it can’t. Whether compressed or uncompressed the “Lossless” characteristic will keep the audio more true to the quality of the master, but are my cans distorting the signal or are they flat? Do I even want to EQ the signal if perfectly flat and true to the master? Those are more of a personal preference, yet something we need to define to best enjoy the tracks. The thing is that even error correction is device dependent, and always been a hot topic in audio engineering as we can’t correct what’s present on an original track, but there is not much need in contemporary audio to worry about things like jitter. NwAvGuy discussed it at length way back in a 2/23/2011 article on his blog. Many things that “audiophiles” claim to have a bona fide need to worry about are actually superfluous when it comes down to the practical listening experience. Take noise in a power supply, because of needing to be able to see the nth harmonic on an oscilloscope, you’re going to just be starting to get a good picture with a 100 MHz analog scope or digital one looking at the analog signal. The ripple is just so minor that it takes that much to even see it, so it’s not going to have this ginormous effect on audio. Cosmic rays flipping a bit is actually far more tangible, but even that is something that has to occur very precisely to see its effects! The thing is, it all starts with an ideal source, and that comes down to those three things I noted above, nothing less and nothing more. Argh. I ended up writing more anyways! 😆
Jazz1
34
Aug 23, 2023
Is the casing metal or plastic?
Horse4Fun
7
Aug 23, 2023
Plastic body with a metal clip & spring
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oeverdazzle
1
Aug 25, 2023
Can this be utilized in the car? I'm asking if it turns on automatically when the engine starts.
Romne11
7
Sep 27, 2023
There are some similar devices, made just for car use mind you unlike this one, for sale on Amazon with the exact same specs as this unit that plug in to your car's USB power connector and then have a cable you plug in to the AUX auxiliary input. One even uses the LDAC Bluetooth codex - the closest to lossless Bluetooth codex available. It costs a fraction of this device around $25 and sounds great. It turns on and off automatically by simply turning your car key (even just to the point where you get power to the car but has not cranked yet - hope that makes sense) - as well as connects automatically - zero interaction needed. If your interested I can get the name of the device for you though it is easy to find with thousands of high reviews and the only LDAC codex one available.
(Edited)
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Bigred1957
14
Nov 17, 2023
Don't want to sound dumb, but is this only for bluetooth headphones or can it be bluetooth keyboard or other peripherals?
Trash_Panda
3
Dec 19, 2023
This isn't for bluetooth headphones. It is a bluetooth receiver so you can send audio via bluetooth to wired headphones. It doesn't accept other wired peripherals. It is strictly for wired headphones.