Fink Different: Keyboards as counter-culture.
If you watched Star Wars for the first time, without seeing images of the Empire’s perfectly spaced thousands of goose-stepping minions in spotless white-lacquered armor. If you didn’t see the fleets of black and grey tie-fighters, the immaculately designed star cruisers, the evil moon-shaped flagship… you wouldn’t know that the rebels were rebels. After all, rebels don’t look like rebels if they don’t have something to contrast them against. They just look like normal people. That’s probably why when you see Luke Skywalker, Han Solo or Finn (all rebels) dressed in stormtrooper garb, they somehow seem even more rebellious then they were before. It’s not what they’re wearing, it’s how they wear it. Dirty, scuffed, broken. Helmet missing or askew. An out of place, beat up weapon slung diagonally across their body. It’s the simple act of defacing the uniform that identifies them in our mind as counter-cultural. Funnily enough, it works in reverse. To the dismay of...
Oct 6, 2024
ABS
ABS is easily one of the most commonly used materials in the injection molding industry (notably, LEGO are made of ABS). It’s durable, well understood, and very easy to work with. Because of this, it is the most commonly used material in keyboard keycaps, whether for mechanical keyboards or not. There is one big downside though - shine. Chemically, ABS is less resilient to the oils on our fingers and in our environment than both PBT and POM. For example, as with LEGO, acetone will destroy your ABS keycaps. I don’t expect anyone reading this to be covered in acetone while typing (that would be hard anyway, considering the vapor pressure of acetone, but this isn’t a chemistry lesson is it?), but some lotions and other substances found around us and on our fingers can have a similar effect on ABS keycaps over time. Despite the long-term issue of shine with ABS keycaps, the ease of manufacture and versatility of legend capabilities (it is far easier to make doubleshot ABS keycaps than from any other material) makes them a very common material of choice, particularly when designing complex color combinations that require doubleshot manufacturing. In terms of feel, ABS has a more classically “plastic” feel to it, resulting in a more high-pitched sound profile. If that sounds like a negative description and you haven’t tried ABS, don’t write it off based on that though, a quality thick ABS keycap set is nothing to scoff at. PBT
PBT as a material addresses the one issue with ABS, introduces another problem, but solves it in a unique way. PBT is chemically resistant to pretty much all oils and greases that you would naturally expose it to, so it is very hard to shine a PBT set - awesome. On the flip side, PBT is harder to process and until the last decade or so there were no doubleshot PBT sets available. Even with the existence of doubleshot PBT sets now, they are not terribly common in the enthusiast space and for some reason most of the sets I’m aware of are on the lower quality side of things (not really sure why that is, but if you know of some premium doubleshot PBT sets that I’ve missed, let me know!). That’s not to say they’re bad sets, but when you get really picky about legend quality it becomes harder to find perfect quality sets. Despite the shortcomings of PBT as a doubleshot material candidate, it does have one great trick up its sleeve. PBT can have legends applied using the dye-sub legending process (detailed below), which results in equally durable legends as doubleshot keycaps. They do have one small drawback in terms of color combination options, but overall they are very nice keycaps and preferred by many enthusiasts. In particular, PBT is sought after by many for its softer and more …forgiving…(?) feel. It’s a very comfortable typing experience - if the colorway/theme you’re after is available in PBT, you really can’t go wrong. POM
Doubleshot
Doubleshot manufacturing of keycaps is the process of shooting one color of plastic into a small cavity, then injecting a different color of plastic around that initial shot of plastic to form the rest of the keycap. Doubleshot keycaps are incredibly robust in terms of legend durability because you can’t rub the legend off - it’s physically built into the keycap. This means that even if finger oils were to eat away at some microscopic layers of the cap, it will have no noticeable effect on the legibility of the lettering itself. Tripleshot
Dye-sub
Dye-sublimation is a technique used to transfer “ink” (the dye-sub industry may have a different name for it) from a substrate onto/into the surface of a keycap. The process doesn’t literally sublimate the material - it’s a bit of a misnomer - but does cause the legend coloring to diffuse into the surface of the keycap. This diffusion of material into the keycap results in a similar level of robustness as observed with double and tripleshot keycaps. Because the legend is literally baked into the keycap itself below the surface, some layers of material can be removed and the legend is still present. As you can imagine, dyeing a dark material with a lighter material (white legends on black keycaps, for example) is unlikely to yield successful results. One inherent limitation to the dye-sub process is that the legends must be darker than the overall keycap color. There are some small-scale “reverse dye-sub” processes floating around that dye the entire keycap except for the legend, but this is less common and I haven’t had the chance to inspect any myself - your mileage may vary. One additional potential downside to dye-sub legends, particularly with lower quality sets, is the possibility of legend bleed. The legend ideally should only diffuse down into the keycap, but sometimes it will diffuse to the sides and create a fuzzy/blurry effect around the legend. Higher quality dye-sub sets will usually not have this issue, but it’s something to be aware of when looking. Others (UV print, pad print, laser infill)