As we prepare to launch the latest keycap set from biip, Extended 2048 Dark, we wanted to take some time to dive into the legending process used for the set. You may remember that the original Extended 2048 keycap set used PBT keycaps and dye-sub legends to create the iconic look. For the Dark version of the Extended 2048 set, we have worked to integrate the “reverse dye-sub” legending technique into our portfolio in order to retain the PBT keycap feel you’ve come to expect from the Extended 2048 line of keycap sets.
This is a super exciting time for us here at Drop. Reverse dye-sub on our DCD and MT3 lines is a technology that we have been refining for some time now as this method has been slowly gaining traction across the community. This process now opens quite a few new doors for unique products to come from Drop in the future.
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What is Dye-sub?
We covered this in our article about keycap materials, but a quick reminder before diving into what makes reverse dye-sub unique—dye-sub (dye sublimation) legends are legends which have been physically dyed into a PBT keycap, leaving a sub-surface legend that is incredibly resilient to wear and tear. Because you can’t dye a lighter color onto a darker color effectively, dye-sub keycaps have always required a lighter keycap base color than legend color. This is why most dye-sub sets are <color>-on-beige, sometimes spicing things up with a white, yellow, or other light color as the base keycap color.
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What is Reverse Dye-sub?
To work around the above limitations, it’s long been discussed that in theory, one could simply dye the *rest* of the keycap (dye the base, not the legend) using the dye-sub technique. This would leave the legend of the keycap an untouched lighter color, and create the desired effect of a light color on dark color keycap. Simple in theory, not-so-simple in execution. In order to dye the keycaps at scale, films covered with dye are stretched slightly to cover all applicable surfaces of the cap and ensure complete coverage across the contours of the non-flat keycap. For regular dye-sub processing, this is much more simple, since we’re only dyeing the top surface. Any stretching that is taking place is mostly minimal.
In order to dye the entire outer surface of a keycap during reverse dye-sublimation, the film covered with dye needs to stretch to cover the entire surface of the keycap. This presents difficulties and hurdles to overcome to tool up for manufacturing, as well as challenges specific to each color and quality control. As you can imagine, stretching something lengthwise causes it to thin out—this thinning results in lighter colors applied to the product where the film is stretched more than where it’s not. We can combat this with heavier coatings overall (to minimize the difference) and scaling the coating thickness proportionally in the areas that will thin more.
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What to expect from Reverse Dye-subFor some more details and specific examples of what to expect from the reverse dye-sub manufacturing process, please see the talk post ‘What to Expect from Reverse Dye-sub Keycaps’.
Our next reverse dye-sub keycap sets?
What are your favorite light-on-dark keycap sets that you’d like to see us produce with reverse dye-sub next?
Would it be possible to do a backlit set this way? Perhaps a pudding-like translucent one. That would remove the need for the "stencil font" compromise that many double-shot versions use. Or is the work not worth the tradeoff versus doing a high-quality double-shot set?
Kenshiro70Not exactly. PBT is not translucent. What you can do though is add Glow-in-the-dark dye to make the PBT plastic glow from LEDs. Combine with a dark reverse dye-sub, you can get glowing legends like on KAT Cyberspace. DSA Minuteman is an example where the whole PBT cap glows.
VandenhulThat was wonderfully informative. Thanks so much! Those Cyberspace keycaps look beautiful. I'm pretty sure I have the Godspeed R1 glow-in-the-dark version, and those were fun, but I've really fallen in love with the MT3 profile.
AristarcoAccording to Biip’s Discord, this set should have an international kit similar to the one in PBT Milkshake, that supports ISO-ES (but I don’t know whether the kit also covers ISO-LA).
There seems to be a lot of trade-offs here in terms of alignment and surface imperfections given the price point. If more color combinations was the end goal, I wish the money and effort had just gone towards fixing and extending the worn-down ABS tooling instead.
think he's referring to recent MT3 ABS sets with not so great legends, IIRC especially the F-row. Matt3o was gathering as many cases in the wild as possible to get in touch with you guys at Drop.
HarvestDayGiven how good Dye-sub can get with KAT and KAM, I much prefer a reverse dye-sub PBT to even doubleshot PBT.
You can get a much broader range of typefaces, and do thinner lines with dye-sub than you can with double-shot. So you can have serif fonts or more intricate designs for legends.
Hi I'm new to Drop and i just received my Keyboard i have been waiting for months for by Drop x MTN Dew x Borderlands movie and didn't know if there was a software like Logitech's for the keyboards. if anyone could help please let me know
What is Dye-sub? We covered this in our article about keycap materials, but a quick reminder before diving into what makes reverse dye-sub unique—dye-sub (dye sublimation) legends are legends which have been physically dyed into a PBT keycap, leaving a sub-surface legend that is incredibly resilient to wear and tear. Because you can’t dye a lighter color onto a darker color effectively, dye-sub keycaps have always required a lighter keycap base color than legend color. This is why most dye-sub sets are <color>-on-beige, sometimes spicing things up with a white, yellow, or other light color as the base keycap color.
What is Reverse Dye-sub? To work around the above limitations, it’s long been discussed that in theory, one could simply dye the *rest* of the keycap (dye the base, not the legend) using the dye-sub technique. This would leave the legend of the keycap an untouched lighter color, and create the desired effect of a light color on dark color keycap. Simple in theory, not-so-simple in execution. In order to dye the keycaps at scale, films covered with dye are stretched slightly to cover all applicable surfaces of the cap and ensure complete coverage across the contours of the non-flat keycap. For regular dye-sub processing, this is much more simple, since we’re only dyeing the top surface. Any stretching that is taking place is mostly minimal. In order to dye the entire outer surface of a keycap during reverse dye-sublimation, the film covered with dye needs to stretch to cover the entire surface of the keycap. This presents difficulties and hurdles to overcome to tool up for manufacturing, as well as challenges specific to each color and quality control. As you can imagine, stretching something lengthwise causes it to thin out—this thinning results in lighter colors applied to the product where the film is stretched more than where it’s not. We can combat this with heavier coatings overall (to minimize the difference) and scaling the coating thickness proportionally in the areas that will thin more.
What to expect from Reverse Dye-sub For some more details and specific examples of what to expect from the reverse dye-sub manufacturing process, please see the talk post ‘What to Expect from Reverse Dye-sub Keycaps’. Our next reverse dye-sub keycap sets? What are your favorite light-on-dark keycap sets that you’d like to see us produce with reverse dye-sub next?