Desoldering, Mill-Maxing, And Why You Might Want To Learn Both
Thanks to StoryboardTech’s fantastic article, you finally learned how to solder! Or at least, you’re committed to learning. So, what’s next? Well, if you’re brave enough, why not learn how to desolder as well? And when you feel confident with that, how about Mill-Max? You don’t necessarily have to know or learn how to solder before learning how to desolder or Mill-max, but in my opinion, getting comfortable with soldering is a great step towards learning how to do the other two, and if you know how to solder, you can practice desoldering and mill-maxing to your heart’s content since you’ll already have the tools from learning how to solder! Well, at least most of the tools. Let’s start off with the good ol’ disclaimer section first, however. Disclaimer These are my own opinions and my own thoughts, and if I’ve learned anything in life, it’s that we all do things in slightly different ways. Whether it be deadlifting, desoldering, Mill-Maxing or even baking...
Jan 13, 2025
What is Dye-sub? We covered this in our article about keycap materials, but a quick reminder before diving into what makes reverse dye-sub unique—dye-sub (dye sublimation) legends are legends which have been physically dyed into a PBT keycap, leaving a sub-surface legend that is incredibly resilient to wear and tear. Because you can’t dye a lighter color onto a darker color effectively, dye-sub keycaps have always required a lighter keycap base color than legend color. This is why most dye-sub sets are <color>-on-beige, sometimes spicing things up with a white, yellow, or other light color as the base keycap color.
What is Reverse Dye-sub? To work around the above limitations, it’s long been discussed that in theory, one could simply dye the *rest* of the keycap (dye the base, not the legend) using the dye-sub technique. This would leave the legend of the keycap an untouched lighter color, and create the desired effect of a light color on dark color keycap. Simple in theory, not-so-simple in execution. In order to dye the keycaps at scale, films covered with dye are stretched slightly to cover all applicable surfaces of the cap and ensure complete coverage across the contours of the non-flat keycap. For regular dye-sub processing, this is much more simple, since we’re only dyeing the top surface. Any stretching that is taking place is mostly minimal. In order to dye the entire outer surface of a keycap during reverse dye-sublimation, the film covered with dye needs to stretch to cover the entire surface of the keycap. This presents difficulties and hurdles to overcome to tool up for manufacturing, as well as challenges specific to each color and quality control. As you can imagine, stretching something lengthwise causes it to thin out—this thinning results in lighter colors applied to the product where the film is stretched more than where it’s not. We can combat this with heavier coatings overall (to minimize the difference) and scaling the coating thickness proportionally in the areas that will thin more.
What to expect from Reverse Dye-sub For some more details and specific examples of what to expect from the reverse dye-sub manufacturing process, please see the talk post ‘What to Expect from Reverse Dye-sub Keycaps’. Our next reverse dye-sub keycap sets? What are your favorite light-on-dark keycap sets that you’d like to see us produce with reverse dye-sub next?