Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
Step 2: Install PCBA & Standoffs Inspect the PCBA for visible issues. With the side of the PCBA that has surface mounted components facing down, angle and gently lower the USB-C ports into the two cutouts before lowering the rest of the circuit board into the acrylic case.
Step 3: Test Basic Functionality Plug in the keyboard and check if everything is working. Every LED should be lit. Be sure to check the per-switch LEDs as well as the underglow LEDs.
Step 4: Assemble Stabilizers You should have 5 wires (4 short and 1 long), 10 stabilizer inserts and 10 stabilizer housings. If you prefer quieter sounding stabilizers you can lube or grease them during assembly.
- Assembling the Inserts and Housings
Take one insert and drop it into a housing. There is only one correct orientation. If the insert does not seem to fit, remove it, rotate it 180 degrees and try again.- Add Stabilizer Wire
It goes through the opening on the housing and through the bottom hole on the insert. Align the two parts, insert the bar, and it should look like this.- Install Stabilizers on the plate
Rotate each stabilizer assembly so the bar faces towards the bottom in U shape. Drop the bar through the cutout, pull down until both stabilizer ends are seated on the plate, then push the opposite end into place. They will clip into the plate. Install the other four in the same way.Step 5: Install Switch Plate Before installing the switch plate, we will first add switches to the four corners of the plate. This is an important step to align the plate with the circuit board and prevent damage during assembly. Before placing each switch you want to check the underside and see if the pins are straight. If bent, you can use your fingers to straighten them but it's best to use another one instead.
Step 6: Add Switches Check each switch for straight pins (orthogonal to the bottom of the switch). If they are slightly angled, you can gently straighten them with your fingers.
- Check Switches & Troubleshooting
Once all the switches are in, check for functionality. Plug your USB-C cable into your keyboard and computer. You should see all your keys lighting up. Next check that each switch is working. Navigate to keyboardtester.com, launch the tester and check that each switch outputs correctly when pressed. Note that pressing the function key by itself will not show anything. You’ll need a combo like fn + 1 (outputs F1) to see if the key is working. If there’s a problem, press the switch down firmly to make sure it's fully seated. If you still have trouble, remove it using a switch puller and check for bent pins. Place the tips into these grooved slots above and below the switch. Squeeze firmly to depress the tabs, and pull straight up to remove the switch.Step 7: Add Keycaps Lastly, add your desired keycaps.