Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
As far as "not built to last" comment I have to politely disagree....
Regarding build quality, I am not the only person who has posted that has commented on this. All the headphones I mentioned above are more sturdy than these.
If you want a sealed, closed back design then buy a sealed closed back design. This is not a sealed design. This is basically like telling the Sennheiser engineers "I'd like my HD6XX closed, please work on that for next drop."
again, I cant state enough: this driver is NOT DESIGNED TO BE SEALED. It will sound like garbage if you try to make it sealed. Buy a different headphone. Sell your headphone.
If you were to take yours apart, you can see that the inner assembly is specifically made so that pressure can pass through the driver baffle and out through the venting ports. The design of the transducer is such that if this venting doesn't occur, it creates an interior standing wave and it kills the bass. You can test this out yourself if you want, just simply tape up the gap between the wood and headphone assembly around the edge of the headphone. Then you can enjoy awful sounding, but completely sealed headphones.
Believe me, I have heard people try to make these sealed, I've even seen people completely create sealed cups from scratch - even Mark Lawton tried it a few times, it just doesn't work with this driver. Things are more complex than your overly simplistic "it's closed, closed is closed." It needs precisely the venting it has. This design has been around for about 20 years now.
It's fine that you don't like the vented, closed design. Again, simply buy another headphone, these are not sealed, they aren't made to be sealed, and sealing them would destroy how they sound. If Foster was going to make this design sealed, they'd have done it 15 years ago.
Yes, these are definitely Foster OEMs.
The gap size seems to make not that big of a difference in size, as the ports aren't more or less sealed if they're tightened. But feel free to experiment, it shouldn't harm anything.
From what I understand, the venting takes place through that gap between the cup and frame, at least that's the how Tyll explains it in his review/description of the Denon AH-DX000 line of headphones. Would it not stand to reason that closing that gap would affect how these headphones vent and as such the resonances in the chamber?
One interesting point to note is thay every significant design that has ever used bio cellulose drivers has been closed back and vented. This includes perhaps the greatest headphone of all time: Sony R10.