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Showing 1 of 7 conversations about:
waltburk
39
Jun 6, 2017
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Not really important to this discussion, but knife handles should be up for safety purposes.
Fuzz
396
Jun 6, 2017
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waltburkI've seen it done both ways, also depends on how/where the block is mounted.
The problem with handles up is if the blades drop, which is liable to happen eventually, especially if you're not the only one using the block, you are going to at least lose the tip of your blade.
Also off-topic, who is the manufacturer of the third knife?
The problem with handles up is if the blades drop, which is liable to happen eventually, especially if you're not the only one using the block, you are going to at least lose the tip of your blade.
Also off-topic, who is the manufacturer of the third knife?
waltburk
39
Jun 6, 2017
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FuzzHandles up if the knife slips it doesn't slice fingers. You can get more knives.
JonasHeineman
5987
Jun 6, 2017
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FuzzFrom L to R, knives pictured are...
Paring: Kanetsugu Saiun - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kanetsugu-saiun-damascus-kitchen-knives Petty: Ohishi Aogami (Super Blue) #2 Nashiji (not currently available) http://bernal-cutlery.shoplightspeed.com/japanese-kitchen-knives/ohishi/aogami-2-nashiji/ Santoku - Kagayaki R2 Nickel Damascus (prior drop for this model) - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kagayaki-r-2-nickel-damascus-kitchen-knives Nakiri - Mikihamono Shiro-ko Wa-Nakiri (closest example) - http://korin.com/HMA-SKWNA-165?sc=27&category=8550154 Gyotu: Ohishi Aogami (Super Blue) #2 Nashiji - http://bernal-cutlery.shoplightspeed.com/ohishi-210mm-gyuto-nashiji-aogami-2-bubinga-handle.html Chef's: Kanetsugu Saiun - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kanetsugu-saiun-damascus-kitchen-knives
Paring: Kanetsugu Saiun - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kanetsugu-saiun-damascus-kitchen-knives Petty: Ohishi Aogami (Super Blue) #2 Nashiji (not currently available) http://bernal-cutlery.shoplightspeed.com/japanese-kitchen-knives/ohishi/aogami-2-nashiji/ Santoku - Kagayaki R2 Nickel Damascus (prior drop for this model) - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kagayaki-r-2-nickel-damascus-kitchen-knives Nakiri - Mikihamono Shiro-ko Wa-Nakiri (closest example) - http://korin.com/HMA-SKWNA-165?sc=27&category=8550154 Gyotu: Ohishi Aogami (Super Blue) #2 Nashiji - http://bernal-cutlery.shoplightspeed.com/ohishi-210mm-gyuto-nashiji-aogami-2-bubinga-handle.html Chef's: Kanetsugu Saiun - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kanetsugu-saiun-damascus-kitchen-knives
FriedShoe
188
Jun 6, 2017
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FuzzAnother similar nakiri, and much cheaper than a Masamoto: https://japanesechefsknife.com/collections/fujiwara-kanefusa-fkj-series/products/fujiwara-kanefusa-fkj-series-kurouchi-fkb-1-nakiri165mm6-4inch
JonasHeineman
5987
Jun 6, 2017
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moehoneyYeah, those guys are great - not everyone has a shop like this nearby, we are very lucky.
Fuzz
396
Jun 8, 2017
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FriedShoeLooks nice, but I generally avoid knives with the black(blued) finish, they do not hold up
to heavy use in professional kitchens.
I'm already set for a Nakiri though. Pretty happy with my Tojiro, it's served me well for just over a year so far so I can't justify spending more on another one for awhile.
I'm already set for a Nakiri though. Pretty happy with my Tojiro, it's served me well for just over a year so far so I can't justify spending more on another one for awhile.
FriedShoe
188
Jun 8, 2017
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FuzzThat finish is called "kurouchi" and is actually just mill-scale that is left on instead of being ground off. You're right that it's not the most durable and will eventually wear off, but then it's essentially no different from any other san mai knife.
I have that knife I linked and it actually came coated in a lacquer, which is fairly common, though I took it off with acetone.
I have that knife I linked and it actually came coated in a lacquer, which is fairly common, though I took it off with acetone.
Fuzz
396
Jun 8, 2017
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FriedShoeAh yes, Kurouchi, I was struggling to remember what the finish was called.
I'm also a bit leery about Hitachi white/blue steel. I am currently in a very high relative humidity environment (SE Asia) and my Hitachi White steel knives develop rust spots in literally just 5 or 6 hours in a blade guard (for transport of knives,) even if I lightly oil it in advance.
I've built up a patina on it several times, but have had to strip it off to remove spot rusting. High carbon steel is just way too reactive for my purposes. I do like the edges and edge retention I can get on VG-10 though.
I usually finish my knives on a Naniwa #10000 or Shapton #12000 and recently got a steal on a used Wicked Edge which I use to strop at 1/0.5 microns.
I'm also a bit leery about Hitachi white/blue steel. I am currently in a very high relative humidity environment (SE Asia) and my Hitachi White steel knives develop rust spots in literally just 5 or 6 hours in a blade guard (for transport of knives,) even if I lightly oil it in advance.
I've built up a patina on it several times, but have had to strip it off to remove spot rusting. High carbon steel is just way too reactive for my purposes. I do like the edges and edge retention I can get on VG-10 though.
I usually finish my knives on a Naniwa #10000 or Shapton #12000 and recently got a steal on a used Wicked Edge which I use to strop at 1/0.5 microns.
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