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Product Description
Brad Zinker’s designs put emphasis on ease of carry, slender form factor, and utility. So, given the opportunity to make a production version of one of his custom knives, we knew it should embody these characteristics Read More
I use the FALLKNIVEN DC4 diamond ceramic whetstone that is sold here. I saw a technique from youtube where you make circles on the stone to keep the angle more consistent. Works for me. The s35vn blade does seem to need a bit more attention than I thought it would. Since it has a thin blade and is a bit elegant with the rosewood handle, I use it for more light duty tasks like package opening and around the office. It can slice through climbing rope scary fast though.
I haven't had to take it apart for maintenance. It is a EDC for me for a year now.
Liner locks are usually thinner and can be a separate piece attached to the frame or scales on the inside of a knife. They are usually covered with a scale over the outside which makes them look nicer and protects the liner from being forced to far outward. Though the weaker of the two, the liner lock will hold up to probably any tasks you'd throw at a knife like this. They are still incredibly strong.
Frame locks are usually a bit more substantial and stronger and are part of the actual handle (or frame that holds everything together) that flexes in. They aren't covered by a scale which enables them to be thinner than knives with the extra layer of scales on the handle, but that's not always the case. Frame locks are exposed on the exterior of the knife so they can be another every point for debris.
I've included a picture with a frame lock on the left and the liner lock on this knife on the right for comparison.
Liner lock is when the locking mechanism is part of the liner. The only real difference between a liner lock and a frame lock is that there is a scale covering the liner lock while the locking mechanism on the frame lock is exposed.