What is SpaceFN and why you should give it a try
The SpaceFN concept - setting up your space key as a layer switch when held - is probably one of the most useful tweaks in the keyboard hobby. Let me explain how it works. My SpaceFN article on kbd.news made some rounds recently - quite surprisingly given the age of this concept. This piece you're reading is a condensed version of the full post. If you're left with unanswered questions, you'll most likely find the info you're looking for in the original write-up. On my imaginary top list of the most useful keyboard features, tweaks and hacks, SpaceFN would deserve a podium finish for sure. But what makes it so special? In short: SpaceFN is easy to implement, easy to learn, costs nothing, can be used with any keyboard, and can improve your productivity instantly. I will list its benefits below, but can state right at this point that the SpaceFN concept, setting up your space key as a layer switch when held, is clearly one of the most useful tweaks in the keyboard hobby....
Apr 30, 2024
To install, I've tried placing the plate/pcb into the top section of the case, then laying the bottom section over it, and inserting the screws. However, when I apply the screws, they cannot grip the holes inside the case. The bottom of the case does not lay flush if you look at it from the side (it's a few mm raised).
I read some comments that implied that the case design for the usb type c ergodoxes changed. I took that to mean that the datamancer cases were compatible with old ergos, but not the latest usb type c's. That's why I asked about the form factor changing for this drop - I was curious if this run had changed to accommodate the lastest ergos.
I can post pictures tomorrow if it would help you. I would love to be wrong and implement this pretty case!
FWIW, I have 2 ergos and have tried this with 2 boards getting the same result. If I apply a little pressure to one side it seems to raise/pivot on top of the circuits near the thumb cluster. If you want more pics just let me know. Ty for the assistance!
I'm brainstorming ways to work around this. I could use longer screws, but the two halves would not be touching. I don't know if this is a bad idea structurally. Also, I could use one acryllic layer as a buffer. This would widen the distance between the two sections, but would add more support. This would also required longer screws. Any thoughts? I'd love your input. If you'd rather move to email let me know. I wanted to post this reply here for anyone else who's used sip sockets.
Thanks!
I checked the case without the keyboard, and it sinks in a few mm. So it's (I believe) working as expected. Does the new batch have a uniform bottom, or is it cut out similar to the current set up? I'd definitely be interested in joining the current drop if it fits with sips. Cheers!
I think the proper approach is to make the case work with sockets, not make the sockets work with the case.
I definitely agree having a different back plate with more room for the SIP legs since they aren't much different in height than the thumb cluster chips makes a lot more sense as long as it doesn't cause severe weakness in the back plate (flex/cracking/etc).
I apologize for the bad quality, I don't own a nice camera for the kind of close shots. I can say though, that sip mods stand 2 to 3mm above the board. It can vary depending on the amount of solder used to park it in place (so to speak). Let me know if you need more assistance. I apologize for the crap pics, but I hope my verification via eyeballs is a help to you. Thanks!