Dumb question, does the drop alt v2 pcb fit in the drop alt v1 case?

Recently, I flashed my SHIFT v1 with the configurator app. Chose XAP and the appropriate keyboard (SHIFT v1) and did some LED config with the online configurator and then flashed the board all with that. Everything works, LEDs are as expected, keyboard input works... Except when the PC (Win 10) goes to sleep and then comes back. Keyboard will have LEDs on, It even wakes the PC up when I press a key (so there is some input being sent) but, once the PC wakes back up, the keyboard will not send input unless I unplug/plug it back in. This was never an issue on stock firmware for 4 years now so it has to be the new firmware is my guess. Anyone have suggestions or input on something I may have done wrong or maybe this is a known issue they have not addressed with the v1 (or others?) Trying to get the "Original" Firmware to reflash back to stock results in this (just hangs on compile and download) Thank you for any... input ... on the matter 😅

Figure 1: Oh yeah, I meant it when I said obscure... There’s no doubt that mechanical keyboard switches have gotten increasingly better in their stock forms over the past half decade of releases. Despite switches now having tighter manufacturing tolerances, smoother factory lubing, and overall higher quality per dollar spent, aftermarket modifications of switches is still one of the most discussed topics by people freshly joining the hobby today. This hyper fixation on switch modding is due in no small part to the glut of keyboard content creators that produced videos, shorts, and all manner of content during the peak of COVID talking about the art and science behind lubing and filming for switches. For a while there, it almost seemed as if you had to have some content about lubing, filming, and/or ‘frankenswitching’ switches if you wanted to cut it as being a true keyboard content creator in the space. However, as people like this have flooded the internet with...