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290 Sold
Product Description
Small enough to take to a friend’s house or the café, the BM Workshop BM43A has just 43 keys. All 43 can be programmed to your liking, too, whether you prefer a more standard key layout or something a little more unconventional Read More
SheeepmanIt definitely felt bonkers at first but I'm coming off of a Mitosis 40% split, so I'm used to things feeling weird for a bit. Spent a couple days programming with it and got used to it pretty quickly.
Is there any possible chance of changing that PCB plate to a standard stagger before shipping? PCB design isn't that time consuming and the case could stay exactly as it is
Drop... if you're posting a board with a weird layout like this, please have an option to include keycaps. I would have bought in already, but I'm going to pass. Having to find caps for this weirdo layout sounds like too much bother.
To anyone interested in this board, please note: it does NOT include switches or keycaps
Switches may not be a deal breaker for many as there are a bunch of ways to get 45 cheap switches. However, the unique layout makes keycap compatibility a big issue for this "under $100" board. The following keycaps are somewhat uncommon and will usually require child/addon kits for many sets or may not even exist for some sets:
2u left Shift
1u right Shift
1.75 Enter
6u big spacebar
DOUBLE 3u spacebars (this is a doozy)
There are keycap sets that include all of these caps but this is not a board you can just pick up and put any keycaps on. These handful of weird key sizes will also seriously limit any custom keycap sets you might want to buy to put on this board in the future.
RMaximTo add to this, if you don't want to do two 3u spacebars, you can also use 2.75u and 2.25u spacebars along with another 1u. Another key you will need is a r3 1.25u tab keycap.
elgueyGood call on the Tab being R3! I didn't catch the 2.75/2.25/1u spacebar layout but I see it now in photo 11. It makes it marginally easier to find compatible caps but all the others combined are certainly an obstacle for most keycap sets.
Again warning to any potential buyers - the 2u left shift makes the bottom row stagger on this board crazy (worse than a typical 2u left shift layout does on a 40% board). E.g. the Z key is 0.25u to the right of where it ought to be, placing it directly below W instead of 3/4 of the way between Q and W
I have no idea why they didn't use 1.75u left shift and 1.25u right shift as these are present in almost every custom keycap set, and also give the correct stagger.
EDIT: See http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/ab684763a441685471fed5845da12c88
Sorry no I'm not really into 40% boards. Minivan is only one I know off the top of my head with arrows, but a) it's discontinued (as far as I know) and b) the rest of the bottom row is ridiculous. There's probably others that are better.
SLRSI've got mine hotswapping!
If you're up for some soldering, I used SIP sockets from digikey.com (part #8134-HC-8P2-SI-ND) to make mine hot-swappable.
I add just a ring of solder, very small amount, on each pad and then put the socket into the pad and heat the socket to set it in place. Works really well and allows you to swap switches whenever you'd like.
krazyken04Hi krazyken, thanks for your reply!
I already know about SIP sockets (and Holtites, Mill-max hotswaps etc), but,
as you understand, it's always an homemade solution, in your case everything works fine, but there are many users that don't say the same (it obviously depends on the PCB).
For a MK producer adding hotswap it's practically inexpensive, for us it's a HUGE improvement (we don't have to throw away the PCB if we made something bad with soldering), so I can't understand why it's still not a de facto standard.
It's just more ecological
Between design and price this is so close to being one of the best drops in a while but WHY is there a 2u/1u shift that's useless and has no compatibility and ruins stagger and ruins the board. Please make an R2 with a normal stagger
Those only work if the PCB is designed for it, though. If you've got a regular PCB that's meant to be soldered, look up Mill-Max sockets, they're a widely compatible option.